'We are climbers first, disabled second,' says Arc'teryx athlete Craig DeMartino. 'If you're a climber, you want to climb El Cap.' Gimp Monkeys follows DeMartino, Jarem Frye and Pete Davis' successful ascent of Zodiac, a 1,800-foot route on the Southeast Face of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.
Viva Patagonia - First Ascentfrom Cheyne Lempe
This is a Deadpoint Magazine piece with Tom Bolger from the UK. Tom took a day to shoot this route, which at the time was one of his hardest. The very physical style and amount of difficult routes is what separates this crag from anything else.
Gorilla attacks Matt Wilder for overuse of chalk.
Brush Off Tick Marks: Excess chalk leads to access issues.
Ethan Pringle attempts one of the hardest route in the Red River Gorge, The Golden Ticket.
Here are a few unseen images of our feature documentary I Believe I can fly. Julien millot gives his opinion about what being free means to him.
The full film available on my blog: http://www.sebmontaz.com/videos/237-trailer-i-believe-i-can-fly-flight-of-the-frenchies
Music by Uddava: http://www.facebook.com/MattOuaki
Welcome to an experimental piece shot over a few days camped out at the Diamond on Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. I composed the song with this piece in mind. Big thanks to Joe Mills my climbing partner for this three days in the mountains, who is always psyched for adventure.
Most of the on climb footage was shot on my Iphone 4s, and the on ground footage and timelapses were shot on a 5d mark iii.
Poetry in Order of Reading
The Mountain, by Emily Dickinson
On Beauty, by Kahil Gibran
Excerpt from Tao Te Ching, by Lao Tzu
Alone Looking At The Mountain, by Li Po
This Is How Your Mind Is, by Foyan
Adam Ondra, perhaps the best sport climber in the word, was visiting Flatanger in Norway. He has created a very hard route, likely a 9b or 9b+. In this video he''s trying to climb the first meters of the 55 meter route. Hanshelleren, the famous Flatanger Cave, has been known as the most spectacular climbing destination in Europe, especially in the summer as the climate is perfect and the granite in the cave is hard and dry.
Dani, Magnus and I sessioned on this incredible route for two days, competing for 15,000 norwegian kroner for the first ascent.
Dani and Magnus obviously climbed the route with style and grace, while I climbed with wild desperation... but it worked. I don't think I've ever topped out a route after becoming so terminally pumped on it.
Hirayama Yuji is one of the best climber in the world. His amazing climbing life story started when he was 14 years old guy when he quit school and decided to become a professional climber. In his long career he did some of the most difficult climbing routes in the world. Yuji twice won the World Cup, where the final competition was in Kranj - Slovenia. This beautiful country reminds him of his rock climbing days in Mišja Peč.
Someday, he wants to climb with friendly Slovenian climbers again.
Camera & editing: Rožle Bregar
In this video Muriel talks about traveling to Spain for the good winter conditions, feeling an obsession to Redpoint an 8C project, and having the right rope to allow her to realize her goal. She chooses the Fusion Nano 9.2 because it is thin and light and it is a rope that she trusts.
Take an inside look at the life of Daila Ojeda – Living in Spain with her boyfriend Chris Sharma and their sweet black-lab. She explains why she climbs on Sterling Rope and chooses the Fusion Nano 9.2 as her rope of choice. Daila shares her attitude that to climb with passion and motivation is the most important thing for climbing. As she tells us in her team bio “If you are psyched and you climb ‘A muerte’ you will be strong.
filmed & edited by: Andy Mann & Keith Ladzinski (3 Strings)
A short film documenting Jonathan Siegrist on the first ascent of Idaho's hardest route, "Algorithm" 5.14d (9a), on September 8th 2012.
"I could not fall. I think by the end I was screaming at every move - more nervous than tired - but definitely tired. I clipped the chains with swollen forearms and bleeding tips. 'Algorithm' 14d was born. Idaho's hardest pitch, and one of the proudest F.A.s of my career." - Jonathan Siegrist
Perry Beckham and Will Stanhope explain the history behind Peter Croft's first ascent of the Zombie Roof [5.12d] in Squamish, B.C. and the process behind Will completing the first free-solo of the route.
Filmed & Edited by David Pearson