Jonathan Siegrist discusses his latest route "Pure Imagination" (14d?) at the Red River Gorge, Kentucky. Filmed by Andy Mann
My wife grew up 20 minutes from these famed cliffs but didn't know that climbing existed there- now she does! -E
The Le Conte boulder, also known as the House Keeping boulder, is in Yosemite Valley, California. For more than a decade, I'd been trying to figure out the proudest, tallest line on the block, with no luck.
One day, I was playing with my sister Jenny's kids, Cyrus and Dahlia, in the forest amongst the rocks. They were acting all whacky, wild and uninhibited, jumping and bouncing around from rock to rock and scampering up trees. I had been trying this sick line on the boulder but never figured out the crux move in all the years before. Somehow the kids, 'anything is possible' energy drifted into me. I stood before the starting bucket giggling. I was loose and moved my body in a different way than ever before. To my amazement, I stuck the crux with my nine-year-old nephew and my 7-year-old niece spotting me. I jumped down, careful not to squish them and finally believed I would send this lifetime project within my next few efforts.
King Air is one of the most obvious boulder problems around. For years I tried the problem alone, somehow keeping it completely secret. My bro, Ivo Ninov and I worked on it together. We kept our efforts stealth by washing off the chalk with water before leaving for the night. For years, I doubt anyone else ever seriously looked at the bold line as it was too high and there wasn't any chalk to lead them. Ivos enthusiasm literally lifted me higher and higher. On every serious attempt he spotted me, making sure that at least I wouldn't split my melon.
This is the proudest highball boulder problem I know of in the Valley. The business scales over 30 feet to the final bucket. Its on the verge of being a free solo. When I fell my feet traveled 20 feet before impacting the pads. I was lucky not to shatter bones. My quads were very sore and I limped around for the next few days. King Air is the most beautiful boulder problem Ive ever done. You would be hard pressed to find any line, more aesthetic.
Black Diamond athlete Alex Honnold has skills—serious, bone-crusher rock climbing skills. Case in point: check out this video of Honnold onsighting two of the hardest 5.13 crack climbs in the Utah desert: Trail of Tears and No Way Jose. Lacking a second ascent since the late-great Jose Pereyra's FA back in 1998, No Way Jose had gained a hefty rep with a grade rumored to be in the 5.13+ range. Honnold, as he often does, coolly dispatched the route onsight with little fanfare, calling it one of the best cracks he'd ever done. Fortunately photographer Andrew Burr was there to capture the action and put together this video.
Steve McClure climbing his longest route ever, Batshadow 8c+ at Malham Cove, England. Video by Alastair Lee, www.posingproductions.com
Best Short Film: Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival 2010.
From the feature length movie "Welsh Connections", available on DVD and HD download. www.bamboochicken.tv
Black Diamond athlete Sonnie Trotter loves his homeland of Canada—just about as much as he loves hanging it out on dicey, runout trad lines. Check out this video of Sonnie going for it on Lake of Fire (5.13c R) at Squamish, with some classic commentary by fellow BD athlete Alex Honnold.
The lads call this talus field at 12k nearby the country's highest paved road in the Mt. Evan's Wilderness Area of Colorado: Wolverine Land.
It was such an awesome event , unbelievable actually. For years I’ve been dreaming about doing a competition like this, so for me and my good friend Miguel Riera (the godfather of Mallorcan Deep water soloing) it was a dream come true. The first time I went deep water soloing in Mallorca 7 years ago, I knew it was something special. This style of climbing high over the water, with no rope, changed my perception of what was possible in climbing. It is without doubt for me the purest form of climbing, as well being very spectacular.
To do a deep water soloing competition was a no brainer from the start. The high adrenaline and big falls make it a super spectacular spectator sport, more so than any other climbing competition format.
It was just a matter of time for all the stars to align and make an event like this happen. It was a great honor to participate in the event held last weekend over the river in downtown Bilbao in the Basque country of northeastern Spain. It couldn’t have been a better turnout. The wall was 50 ft tall and the route was a dynamic 5.14a that thrilled the thousands of spectators with crazy falls and tons of sports action. It was great proof that climbing Can be an amazing spectator sport.
Looking back on the years when climbing was in the X Games but just couldn’t translate to the mainstream audience because if its slow subtle nature, this new form of competition will surely blow the minds of any non climber and I believe will be a key element in climbing becoming a more mainstream sport.
~Chris Sharma 10.23.10
Read more here.
Jacinda Hunter: Style, Grace, Power
Jacinda Hunter, a nurse and mother of four, juggles work and parenthood while bouldering V11 and redpointing 14b. She says, “usually when I make up my mind to do something, I get it done.” Jacinda feels her biggest challenge is being a good parent and good example for her kids. She says, “It’s hard to find time to provide opportunities for their interests and growth, and still have time to indulge in my own passions like climbing.”
The subject of this film is her latest first ascent, 'Fantasy Island' (5.14b) in American Fork Canyon, Utah.
Music: Pretty Lights "Someday is Everyday" Prettylightsmusic.com
Dean Potter is characterized by creativity, commitment and challenge. He started climbing as a child, with a free solo fall from a stone wall as one of his earliest memories. Since that time, he has speed soloed Half Dome and El Capitan, Cerro Torre, and Fitzroy. He was the first to make a one-day free ascent of El Cap and Half Dome, and a one-day speed linkup of both of those big walls and Mount Watkins, Yosemites third Grade VI wall. He has also established testpiece crack routes in the Utah desert and highball boulder problems in Yosemite.
Dean has walked the longest highlines, often without a safety leash, though he has dedicated over a decade of engineering and testing to create the safest highline systems currently used. Most recently, he has combined BASE jumping skill with highlining and free soloing, using a specially engineered ultralight BASE rig as his backup system.