Summer of 2010: Mark Allen is working as an American IFMGA Aspirant in mentorship with an AMGA/ IFMGA Guide based in Chamonix, France. This is an example of a typical training day for the AMGA alpine exam, on the Chamonix's classic AD route "The Midi-Plan Traverse". This route enchains the skyline between the Aiguille de Midi and the Aiguille Plan.
Video shot by IFMGA Guide Dylan Taylor and edited my Aspirant Mark Allen.
The lactic acid was flowing relentlessly in our legs after climbing Slesse as we made our way to the latest and greatest ski resort in BC, Revelstoke. This place is great! We concluded that we could move there if we ever have to flee the country for whatever reason.
Mt Sir Donald is located just up the road from here on Rogers Pass, the legendary backcountry ski destination. The terrain here is amazing, but we were here to climb, not ski. As we prepared for the climb in the parking lot we asked the question we seem to pose often, "how much crap do we need to carry for this climb?"
read the rest of the blog post at: www.smileysproject.com
Black Diamond athlete Nico Favresse spent some time in Siurana, Spain and managed to redpoint the stunning La Reina Mora (8c+). Lensman Bernardo Gimenez was on the scene and put together this excellent video portrait of Nico and his efforts.
This is the third in a four-part series about Sonnie Trotter and Alex Honnold making the first one-day ascent of Logical Progression, a 28-pitch 5.13a route on El Gigante in Mexico's Basaseachi National Park.
This is the first in a four-part series about Sonnie Trotter and Alex Honnold making the first one-day ascent of Logical Progression, a 28-pitch 5.13a route on El Gigante in Mexico's Basaseachi National Park. To read Sonnie’s essay about the climb, as well as see photos from Andrew Burr (who was along to do the driving and documenting), click here.
This is the second in a four-part series about Sonnie Trotter and Alex Honnold making the first one-day ascent of Logical Progression, a 28-pitch 5.13a route on El Gigante in Mexico's Basaseachi National Park.
Peter and Guillaume present you a cliff called LE COUTERAY. Small but interesting overhanging gneiss rock spot. 15 mn driving from Chamonix up the valley. One superb Off-width that was first climbed in the 90's by famous american climber Craig Luebben who rated it 5.12 b/c only ! He commented that it was one of the most beautiful Off width he had ever climbed and was so disappointed when he came back a few years later and realized locals had bolted it and it is now rated 5.13. In this video, Pete climbs a neighbour no named line, rated 5.12b. Music " love" by Abass Ewig (c) 2009 Seb Montaz-Rosset.
Short film made of a few "trash" or unsuccesful shots from Adam Ondra's latest visit in Zillertal.
Adam was training ON-SIGHT climbing for the upcoming World Cup competition. If he didn't succed, he just finished the route AF (all with 1 sit only) and left to try another "ON-SIGHT". You can see the effort he gives to his climbing.
So here are some "harder" routes from this great climbing area, performed by A.O in one of his bad days...
Who said that Adam is the shy and calm boy? :-D If you want to see more, follow WWW.BERNARTWOOD.CZ Regards! Petr P.
The commute from base-camp on the ridge is over: the team commits to the wall. Life in the vertical world is based out of two hanging portaledges. Kevin and Conrad push the line higher into virgin terrain as Alex, Mark & Jimmy drop below to free climb pitches previously aid climbed. Alex shows how free climbing on first ascents, climbing without pulling on any mechanical devices, is a bold progressive climbing style.
The rain has been torrential with only a small solar window each morning, so video size remains small. Best, reo.
While shooting my Squamish in a Day video, Jason Kruk got his knee stuck in a 5.11 offwidth called "Boogie 'til You Puke." Luckily Andrew Burr was there shooting stills while I shot video and switched his 5d to video mode to capture what is perhaps the most horrific and hilarious climbing experience I have ever witnessed first hand. By the end of this short movie, you should understand why the climb is now officially renamed "Boogie 'til You Poop!"