This is the first in a four-part series about Sonnie Trotter and Alex Honnold making the first one-day ascent of Logical Progression, a 28-pitch 5.13a route on El Gigante in Mexico's Basaseachi National Park. To read Sonnie’s essay about the climb, as well as see photos from Andrew Burr (who was along to do the driving and documenting), click here.
This is the second in a four-part series about Sonnie Trotter and Alex Honnold making the first one-day ascent of Logical Progression, a 28-pitch 5.13a route on El Gigante in Mexico's Basaseachi National Park.
Peter and Guillaume present you a cliff called LE COUTERAY. Small but interesting overhanging gneiss rock spot. 15 mn driving from Chamonix up the valley. One superb Off-width that was first climbed in the 90's by famous american climber Craig Luebben who rated it 5.12 b/c only ! He commented that it was one of the most beautiful Off width he had ever climbed and was so disappointed when he came back a few years later and realized locals had bolted it and it is now rated 5.13. In this video, Pete climbs a neighbour no named line, rated 5.12b. Music " love" by Abass Ewig (c) 2009 Seb Montaz-Rosset.
Short film made of a few "trash" or unsuccesful shots from Adam Ondra's latest visit in Zillertal.
Adam was training ON-SIGHT climbing for the upcoming World Cup competition. If he didn't succed, he just finished the route AF (all with 1 sit only) and left to try another "ON-SIGHT". You can see the effort he gives to his climbing.
So here are some "harder" routes from this great climbing area, performed by A.O in one of his bad days...
Who said that Adam is the shy and calm boy? :-D If you want to see more, follow WWW.BERNARTWOOD.CZ Regards! Petr P.
The commute from base-camp on the ridge is over: the team commits to the wall. Life in the vertical world is based out of two hanging portaledges. Kevin and Conrad push the line higher into virgin terrain as Alex, Mark & Jimmy drop below to free climb pitches previously aid climbed. Alex shows how free climbing on first ascents, climbing without pulling on any mechanical devices, is a bold progressive climbing style.
The rain has been torrential with only a small solar window each morning, so video size remains small. Best, reo.
While shooting my Squamish in a Day video, Jason Kruk got his knee stuck in a 5.11 offwidth called "Boogie 'til You Puke." Luckily Andrew Burr was there shooting stills while I shot video and switched his 5d to video mode to capture what is perhaps the most horrific and hilarious climbing experience I have ever witnessed first hand. By the end of this short movie, you should understand why the climb is now officially renamed "Boogie 'til You Poop!"
The climbers of the Pacific NW are a hearty bunch. Huge vertical relief, dense underbrush, long approaches and crappy weather are the ingredients that toughen their skin to the Dirty Harry level. While doing our homework prior to attempting the Price Glacier route on Mt Shuksan we read, "follow the trail that parallels the Price Creek leading to Price Lake." In Colorado, when the guide books use the word trail, that naturally implies a 4 foot wide space, clear of all vegetation, well signed at any conceivable intersection where one might be required to make a route finding decision. If there is ever a section of trail that the rise-over-run ratio is out of code with OSHA standards, college "interns" are quickly recruited to make rock steps that bring it back into compliance.
Louder Than 11 presents a Colorado bouldering epic when Jon Glassberg and Nate Draughn are climbing in the high country and they stumble upon a mysterious meteorite crash site. They approach the impact zone to collect the debris and discover that the alien meteorite has unique powers. The residue on their hands glows and tracks their movements through space and time. Quickly Jon and Nate grab as much as they can and stuff it into their chalk bags and head to the boulders with the alien substtance and then share the glowing chalk with friends, Carlo Traversi and Ryan Olson. The climbers then proceed to have otherworldly climbing experiences followed up with some scary consequences. With every blessing there is a curse…
This summer I had the pleasure of giving a presentation at the Squamish Mountain Film Festival and arrived a day early to do some shooting with the perhaps overly ambitious idea of presenting an original climbing film that I shot and cut in a day. It turned out to be a lot of work and I literally didn't sleep for a night to get this ready for the show, but everyone was super psyched to see a slice of their home area presented to them in near real time. This movie features Jason Kruk, Will Stanhope, Tommy Caldwell, and Hazel Findlay crushing Squamish's world class stone.
Black Diamond athlete Alex Honnold takes down a host of deep-water soloing testpieces in Mallorca as he lets his wit and personality shine through in this clip produced by fellow BD athlete Cedar Wright.