Steph Davis says: "Thanks very much to Sender Films for this footage and edit of Learning To Fly, at Indian Creek. It's a steep, physical crack and it's power-endurance climbing. When I got to the anchor, I wanted to throw up. :) Lots of yelling on this one."
3rd day working a new boulder problem Fantasia, 8b+ (V14) near Morrison, Colorado in early February, 2011. Apparently Daniel Woods has snagged the FA on this strenuous boulder problem.
Black Diamond athlete Paul Robinson tore it up in Fall 2010 on the granite boulders of Switzerland, ticking off multiple problems in the 8B and above range, including a couple 8Cs (one, a first ascent). BD sent ace lensman Bernardo Gimenez up to Switzerland to capture some of Robinson’s bouldering sendage, as well as develop a video profile of Robinson that would showcase his personality and drive.
After a few solid days of effort, Arc'teryx team athlete, Jonathan Siegrist sent a new line at Red River Gorge, naming it "24 Karats", and at the grade of 5.14c, it is one of America's harder sport climbs.
Filmed and Edited by: Keith Ladzinski
To make waiting for the movie shorter, here is a small preview of the shots from Siurana, Spain of Adam Ondra trying two very different 9b routes. First he tries an unclimbed, bouldery project and then an amazing line from Chris Sharma - Golpe de Estado (9b).
British alpine aces Chris Bonnington and Mick Fowler enjoying some ice leads in France.
Epilogue to the multi award winning rock climbing film, Welsh Connections.
Tim Emmett returns to his unfinished project in Pembroke, Wales.
Jonathan Siegrist discusses his latest route "Pure Imagination" (14d?) at the Red River Gorge, Kentucky. Filmed by Andy Mann
My wife grew up 20 minutes from these famed cliffs but didn't know that climbing existed there- now she does! -E
The Le Conte boulder, also known as the House Keeping boulder, is in Yosemite Valley, California. For more than a decade, I'd been trying to figure out the proudest, tallest line on the block, with no luck.
One day, I was playing with my sister Jenny's kids, Cyrus and Dahlia, in the forest amongst the rocks. They were acting all whacky, wild and uninhibited, jumping and bouncing around from rock to rock and scampering up trees. I had been trying this sick line on the boulder but never figured out the crux move in all the years before. Somehow the kids, 'anything is possible' energy drifted into me. I stood before the starting bucket giggling. I was loose and moved my body in a different way than ever before. To my amazement, I stuck the crux with my nine-year-old nephew and my 7-year-old niece spotting me. I jumped down, careful not to squish them and finally believed I would send this lifetime project within my next few efforts.
King Air is one of the most obvious boulder problems around. For years I tried the problem alone, somehow keeping it completely secret. My bro, Ivo Ninov and I worked on it together. We kept our efforts stealth by washing off the chalk with water before leaving for the night. For years, I doubt anyone else ever seriously looked at the bold line as it was too high and there wasn't any chalk to lead them. Ivos enthusiasm literally lifted me higher and higher. On every serious attempt he spotted me, making sure that at least I wouldn't split my melon.
This is the proudest highball boulder problem I know of in the Valley. The business scales over 30 feet to the final bucket. Its on the verge of being a free solo. When I fell my feet traveled 20 feet before impacting the pads. I was lucky not to shatter bones. My quads were very sore and I limped around for the next few days. King Air is the most beautiful boulder problem Ive ever done. You would be hard pressed to find any line, more aesthetic.
Black Diamond athlete Alex Honnold has skills—serious, bone-crusher rock climbing skills. Case in point: check out this video of Honnold onsighting two of the hardest 5.13 crack climbs in the Utah desert: Trail of Tears and No Way Jose. Lacking a second ascent since the late-great Jose Pereyra's FA back in 1998, No Way Jose had gained a hefty rep with a grade rumored to be in the 5.13+ range. Honnold, as he often does, coolly dispatched the route onsight with little fanfare, calling it one of the best cracks he'd ever done. Fortunately photographer Andrew Burr was there to capture the action and put together this video.
Black Diamond athlete Sonnie Trotter loves his homeland of Canada—just about as much as he loves hanging it out on dicey, runout trad lines. Check out this video of Sonnie going for it on Lake of Fire (5.13c R) at Squamish, with some classic commentary by fellow BD athlete Alex Honnold.