Ryan Bogus and Eli Helmuth mix it up on a (now) first ascent at Hidden Falls in Rocky Mountain National Park, CO on Dec. 16th, 2009. Thanks to Chris, Mike, John, and Kevin for the many soft-catches on this fun-filled day! Read more here at the Colorado MoJo for details on the FA.
A short video from a post-Thanksgiving workout on the Lumpy Ridge, Twin Owls classic: Coyote (12b). Coyote is a classic bolted arete on the Twin Owls Formation of
Lumpy Ridge that was first ascended by Mike Caldwell in 1989. This video was
edited to remove the excessive chalking and breathing involved on this
cloudless, warm breeze day at 8,000' . Music courtesy of Habib Koite'
and his band Bamada; a very talented musician from Mali and from their CD -
Eli Helmuth climbs a few new boulder problems and a classic arete in the Ishinca and Llanganuco Valley's of Peru. All footage is from an October 2009 trip in the Cordillera Blanca Range of Peru during a ClimbingLife Guides mountaineering expedition in the 'White Range'. The music 'Wasted (Reprise)" by Pearl Jam from their new CD- 'Backspacer' accompanies this video, all filmed well above 14,000' with temperatures in the 30-40F range.
Eli Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides gives a conditions report from Longs Peak on September 24th, 2009 along with footage from a mixed climbing route on the south face of Mount Lady Washington done with CLG apprentice guide, Mike Arnold. Music from Pearl Jam's highly recommended new CD- Back Spacer. Check it out here.
After watching video of Matt climb The Path at Lake Louise, I sought out more footage of this talented rock climber. Here's a video from March of Matt climbing a V10 or 14a boulder problem onsight - impressive!
Humble, reticent and strong as a bull, Alex Honnold is a crack climbing machine. Check out this video of Honnold crushing it in world-famous Indian Creek, Utah on everything from 5.13 footless tip-jam campusing to inverted offwidthing.
Hayden Kennedy is one of Black Diamond's grassroots athletes and he's a straight crusher, having 5.14s and El Cap free ascents on his resumé. Here's a clip from an upcoming film by Kevin Jaramillo of young Hayden and Yosemite icon Ivo Ninov on the famed Bachar/Yerian (5.11c R/X) in Tuolumne Meadows, California. Follow the link here to read Hayden's thoughts about this climb and the recent death of John Bachar.
In the summer of 2005 Lynn Hill and Katie Brown made the first
female "free" ascent of the West Face (V 5.13b/c A0), Leaning Tower,
Yosemite. See Lynn and Katie's climb and find out about the challenges
they faced on the Leaning Tower.
June, 2006, Squamish, B.C. Sonnie
Trotter climbed the first free ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14). Sonnie
worked the overhanging, thin-finger crack 30--40 times over the past
few years, often rope-soloing the route to dial the moves, before
completing it all-free. Sonnie said, "It's very rare to find a climb
that is both overhanging, and so aesthetic. The fingers fit inside, but
barely -- if the crack was any more shallow, it would be just another
impossible wall, if the crack was much steeper, it may be impossible --
so I consider that route a gift for climbers. I've spent the better
half of 10 years looking for a climb like that. It's perfect."