A nice dream from a drytooling climber on the beach.
Chris Sharma and Mindful Living Ambassador Mark Coleman talk about the ‘inside game’ of climbing – how our thoughts can either hinder our performance or enhance our experience. The universal idea of letting go and focusing on the present moment allows us to more fully enjoy our passionate pursuits and our lives… of course this is easier said that done.
Ben Spannuth - Eldorado Canyon - The Web (5.13) from Louder Than 11.
"It was exactly what I was looking for - a route that would demand a new levels of dedication, physical strength, and mental fortitude from me. It was of course frustrating, ego-crushing, and difficult throughout, but in the end it was a dream come true. I named the route 'Le Reve', meaning 'The Dream' in French." Jonathan Siegrist
Filmed & Edited by: 3 Strings
Music by: Gramatik & Supervision
Alizée Dufraisse, who climbed her first 8c+, Pati Noso, not long ago, has now pushed it half a notch further by doing La Reina Mora, 8c+/9a, at Siurana. The route is in the same sector, El Pati, as Pati noso, so it would seem this wall suits her quite well. This was of course the first female ascent. There has, after all, not been that many female ascents at this level. So few in fact that you can count the number of women who have climbed anything harder than 8c+ on one hand, even if you were to have lost a digit (or maybe even two). La Reina Mora was originally given 8c/+ by Ramon Julian Puigblanque but has later been upgraded first by Nico Favresse who suggested 8c+ and then by Dani Andrada who thought it was at least 8c+/9a, maybe even 9a.
Robert Jasper making the first ascent of IRONMAN (M/D 14+) in Eptingen (CH).
Film by: Frank Kretschmann
Music by: Jens Petzold
Friends Paul Bride (photographer) and Marc-Andre Leclerc (climber) share some insight into Sonnie's never ending pursuits in the inspiring Squamish Valley, British Columbia, Canada. Produced by AliasCinema in cooperation with Patagonia.
"In life it’s our choice whether we laugh or cry – and I chose to laugh”
One Step Beyond takes us behind the scenes for a close up look at the lives of people involved in extreme sports.
Géraldine Fasnacht, world-renowned snowboarder and base jumper, invites us into the small and close-knit community of today’s real life supermen - wingsuit flyers...
We join her on a rollercoaster ride across the full spectrum of human emotions, catapulting from total euphoria to devastating loss, living life at full force and in glorious technicolour. Until one day, out of nowhere, a dramatic event changes the course of Géraldine’s life and forces her to reconsider her chosen path. In the face of tragedy, she decides to pick herself up and get back on the ride, to be swept up in a whirlwind of adrenaline. This bare bones, honest account gives us a window into the lives of ordinary men and women who have chosen to take an extraordinary path in life.
Fasten your seat belts, we hope you enjoy your trip!
This full length documentary will be available on my blog from march, 8th www.sebmontaz.com
Dani has a strong reputation and all I can say is that he is as motivated as you would expect him to be. He is either climbing or bolting, or doing both in a day. He just never stops. And on top of that he is a genuine good person spending most of his non climbing time rebolting older routes to keep Siurana safe.
- Haroun Souirji
Monique Forestier first visited the Verdon Gorge, France, in 2007. Gazing across at the far side of the gorge she became captivated by an extraordinary line which follows a single "tufa" line for most of the 60-metre route. It is called "Tom et je Ris" (8b+). Time and conditions didn't allow her to seriously try it that trip but it gave her plenty to dream about for the next few years. She finally returned in October 2011 and as her daughter would say, "I did it!".
"Do you remember your first 5.7? 5.9? 5.11? 5.13? Last summer I captured my friend's first 5.13 on video.
The EPIC Shadow pitch of the Stawamus Chief is one of the most dramatic rock features on the planet.
Located in Squamish BC, the Shadow has a reputation for being intimidating. Rated 5.13, it is a single hand to finger sized crack which is tucked into a steep dihedral extending for over 150 feet. The Shadow was cemented into North American Climbing history when legendary Stonemaster Peter Croft first free'd the route in 1988, onsight. Since then it's only been repeated a handful of times. Jesse Huey battles up the double overhanging corners using grit, tenacity and imagination. His first attempt took 40 minutes before slipping off near the top. His successful burn, a few hours later, with his pair of lucky shoes, took forty-five minutes of endurance climbing to reach the anchors." Sonny Trotter
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
"We went to Bas Cuvier parking where we had a meeting with the man of the forest: Jacky Godoffe. It was very inspiring to see him bouldering, being as psyched as ever even after so many years in the forest. I wanted to do some real classic and that is definitely La Merveille (8A). This is amazing prow with the high, but safe crux on the top. Jacky gave me some good beta and I flashed it! Funny thing was that when I latched the lip, I got just slopper a couple centimeters below the real jug and hung there for a second, having no clue what to do or if I was about to fall. From the ground, I might have seemed pretty relaxed and I heard Jacky as a spotter saying OK and going away. In that moment I squealed a desperate “No!“ and I felt that my spotter returned and I could stabilize myself again to do a final bump into the real jug. The end of the day was spent by trying C'etait Demain, the first 8A in the forest in 1984 and also established by Jacky. This was a hard one, and I spent about 20 tries on it, trying and trying again and getting desperately close to doing these two crux moves. Jacky tried with me and we had a plenty of fun, laughing at the precision and coordination this problem requires. In the end, I made it up this blank overhanging wall." Adam Ondra 12/2011
One last day. My goal for the season was to flash an 8B+, but within autumn having too many projects, I abandoned this idea and gave it up for the year. But one problem came on my mind, Gecko. My friend Andrej Chrastina told me about it 5 years ago, when I did bouldering very rarely. Andrej was persuading me to go to Font to try this problem, saying that it would fit my style very well. A last day of climbing of 2011... why not give it a try to fulfill my goal of the year? All the other goals for the year I had already managed to fulfill (excluding competitions).
The day didn't start in the best way: after cleaning the gite and getting lost and searching for the bloc in the wood from a different parking, we arrived in the sector a little while after noon, already tired after the beginning of the day and after the climbing the previous day. I took some warm up, not feeling very well, but having a lot of psych thanks to cold conditions. I tried to remember the video from the previous night, asked my friends to clean the holds that I couldn't reach from the pads and I set off. First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was loosing a balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock. There is a one thing that I really love in climbing: heel hooking. And the rest of the problem is about awkward heelhooks and I felt pretty solid. The last hard movement I shrieked, but I was almost sure I would do it. I felt unstoppable at that very moment.
Font is an incredible place and the beauty of climbing there was even better than I had hoped. It is definitely, the best bouldering area I have ever visited."
This video is a collaboration between Sheldon Neill and Colin Delehanty.
Project Yosemite Website: http://projectyose.com
Our hearts go out to the families of Markus Praxmarer who lost his life while climbing Half Dome on September 19th, 2011 and Ranger Ryan Hiller, who was crushed by a tree January 22nd, 2012. They will be missed.
“In any human endeavor, some fraction of it's practitioners will be motivated to pursue that activity with such concentrated focus and unalloyed passion that it will consume them utterly. As a result of this infatuation, existence overflows with purpose. Through immoderation, he experiences something akin to rapture." J.K.
Yosemite Valley has long been regarded as the holy land for climbers and boulderers throughout the world. The origins of rock climbing lie in the 3000-foot granite walls lining the valley and the boulders that sit strewn about below these staggering monoliths. In the late weeks of November, the Louder Than 11 crew gathered from all corners of the country to experience Yosemite Valley bouldering. As a group of passionate individuals, we enveloped ourselves in the landscape for two weeks, attacking boulders as if tomorrow would never come. On the surface, the very foundation of our identities is built on rock climbing—a sport that we believe is the greatest on the planet—but there is much more to this seemingly inherent addiction than meets the eye.
With Park Life, we strive to answer this age-old, omnipresent question: Why? By combining difficult climbing, captivating visuals, and engaging music under the all-encompassing umbrella of a professional production company, we hope to portray a unique lifestyle that has given us all a palpable sense of unwavering purpose. The long-lasting friendships, incessant failure and equally abundant success, reckless commitment and dedication driven to the point of complete and utter irresponsibility; it’s an eternal battle. We do it because we love it. At Louder Than 11, our media is always free, whether you like it or not.