This past fall, Black Diamond athletes Dave Macleod and Tim Emmett ventured to the ultra-scenic crags of Pembroke, South Wales, a place known not only for its bold, beautiful lines on striking seaside cliffs, but for its notoriously finicky conditions that can make redpointing an exercise in extreme patience. The video gives an intimate look at the intricacies of UK climbing and details Dave and Tim's efforts on some of Pembroke's best (and headiest) routes, including Dave Pickford's The Brother Karamazov (E9 6c).
"Baby" by cdk
"Pangea" by Professor Kliq
This video includes a flash ascent of the route Infinity Lane by Chris Sharma that took place during the Petzl Roctrip Millau 2009, in Gorges de La Jonte.
Chris flashed the 90-meters route, graded 8b+ (14a).
Infinity Lane is a something new we thought up for the 2009 Millau Natural Games. The two Ultimate Routes, located at the Cathédrale in the Gorges de la Jonte (Aveyron, France), are actually three-pitch sport lines that the participants have to link together into one long, single pitch. The grade is about 8a (90 meters) for the women and 8b+ (90 meters) for the men. Climbers had four days to link the route. They weren't allowed to work the moves - once a climber fell, she or he was lowered to the ground and had to start over from the beginning the next day.
Martina Cufar and Florence Pinet both onsighted the Women's Ultimate Route. Dani Andrada and Mickaël Fuselier made it almost to the top before falling near the anchors on the men's route. However it took Chris Sharma only one try to get to the top...
Are you smitten with Smitten? Prepare for the white knuckle, action packed, thrill ride of 2011. Staring Australia's best Rock Climbers and BASE jumper.
Produced by Ed Thornhill.
Music by: http://www.theblackpaintings.com/
Watch The North Face athletes Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards on their descent from the summit of GII (Gasherbrum 26,509') to Base Camp.
Produced by STORY.teller COLLECTIVE
Filmed and edited by Cory Richards
Music by Green Button Music - greenbuttonmusic.com
Black Diamond athlete Fred Nicole is a true master boulderer, having been at the forefront of the sport for more than two decades. Soft-spoken and thoughtful, he has developed benchmark problems from Hueco Tanks to Rocklands to Fontainebleau to his home forests of Switzerland, all in with his trademark silent, graceful power. An icon to boulderers around the world, Fred Nicole was a perfect fit to filmed by Bernado Gimenez for the BD Video Profile series.
Nicole took Gimenez on a tour of some of his off-the-radar spots in Switzerland and sagely spoke about his philosophies in climbing and in life. A personal and unique profile, this video is truly a special window into the world of one of climbing's great ambassadors.
Steph Davis says: "Thanks very much to Sender Films for this footage and edit of Learning To Fly, at Indian Creek. It's a steep, physical crack and it's power-endurance climbing. When I got to the anchor, I wanted to throw up. :) Lots of yelling on this one."
3rd day working a new boulder problem Fantasia, 8b+ (V14) near Morrison, Colorado in early February, 2011. Apparently Daniel Woods has snagged the FA on this strenuous boulder problem.
Black Diamond athlete Paul Robinson tore it up in Fall 2010 on the granite boulders of Switzerland, ticking off multiple problems in the 8B and above range, including a couple 8Cs (one, a first ascent). BD sent ace lensman Bernardo Gimenez up to Switzerland to capture some of Robinson’s bouldering sendage, as well as develop a video profile of Robinson that would showcase his personality and drive.
After a few solid days of effort, Arc'teryx team athlete, Jonathan Siegrist sent a new line at Red River Gorge, naming it "24 Karats", and at the grade of 5.14c, it is one of America's harder sport climbs.
Filmed and Edited by: Keith Ladzinski
To make waiting for the movie shorter, here is a small preview of the shots from Siurana, Spain of Adam Ondra trying two very different 9b routes. First he tries an unclimbed, bouldery project and then an amazing line from Chris Sharma - Golpe de Estado (9b).
British alpine aces Chris Bonnington and Mick Fowler enjoying some ice leads in France.
The Le Conte boulder, also known as the House Keeping boulder, is in Yosemite Valley, California. For more than a decade, I'd been trying to figure out the proudest, tallest line on the block, with no luck.
One day, I was playing with my sister Jenny's kids, Cyrus and Dahlia, in the forest amongst the rocks. They were acting all whacky, wild and uninhibited, jumping and bouncing around from rock to rock and scampering up trees. I had been trying this sick line on the boulder but never figured out the crux move in all the years before. Somehow the kids, 'anything is possible' energy drifted into me. I stood before the starting bucket giggling. I was loose and moved my body in a different way than ever before. To my amazement, I stuck the crux with my nine-year-old nephew and my 7-year-old niece spotting me. I jumped down, careful not to squish them and finally believed I would send this lifetime project within my next few efforts.
King Air is one of the most obvious boulder problems around. For years I tried the problem alone, somehow keeping it completely secret. My bro, Ivo Ninov and I worked on it together. We kept our efforts stealth by washing off the chalk with water before leaving for the night. For years, I doubt anyone else ever seriously looked at the bold line as it was too high and there wasn't any chalk to lead them. Ivos enthusiasm literally lifted me higher and higher. On every serious attempt he spotted me, making sure that at least I wouldn't split my melon.
This is the proudest highball boulder problem I know of in the Valley. The business scales over 30 feet to the final bucket. Its on the verge of being a free solo. When I fell my feet traveled 20 feet before impacting the pads. I was lucky not to shatter bones. My quads were very sore and I limped around for the next few days. King Air is the most beautiful boulder problem Ive ever done. You would be hard pressed to find any line, more aesthetic.