Alex Honnold is the most accomplished free climber in the world. Angola is a southwest African country that recently emerged from 27 years of bloody civil war. What brings together these strange bedfellows you ask? Some of the most epic unclimbed rocks in the world, and a community needing help to diffuse the hidden land mines leftover from the conflict. (Plus a shadowy local hotel magnate, but we'll get into that later). This is Alex Honnold in Angola, for one of the most unique adventures of his storied climbing career this far.
Just outside the town of Mouriès, France, in the small Alpilles Mountains, sits a legendary iconic route from 1986 called, "Magie Blanche" (White Magic). This twenty-meter-high dead-vertical wall of 8b+ (5.14a) has little in common with the routes typically scaled by today's sport climbers. Here is the story of a truly unique encounter! More infos about the climb and the interveiw of Chris Sharma on: petzl.com/en/Sport/video/Chris-Sharma-travels-back-to-the-future-in-Mouries--France?l=INT#.VmASVb-Fnlc
WARNING - contains strong language! 'Why Echoes, it's a good question... It came from one of my first essays, also called echoes. This essay was an echo into my past life, a reverberation to and from the life I had made for myself. (...) Echoes of a parallel life, of the life we were expected, or trained to live, but there, just on the periphery, just out of reach, is another life – a life – a much better life – the life we all hope to live, but not many do ... It's there, just there – bouncing, echoing around in everyone's head, but it is just that, an echo, a parallel never to be reached or experienced...' Nick Bullock.
First Ascent of a 5.13 R rated route in Boulder Canyon. A variation/extension of an existing route in Boulder Canyon called “The Spoils”.
Opposites attract. There isn’t a more appropriate statement to describe the unlikely yet formidable climbing partnership that is Nick Bullock and Tim Neill. They met on the mountains of Scotland in winter, and despite walking their own paths in the mountaineering world they are both drawn inexorably back there each winter. The fickle conditions that define Scottish winter climbing frequently lead to frustration, but the prospect of discovering an obscure gem presents an irresistible allure to them both.
Eddie Bauer athlete and renowned climbing photographer Ben Ditto ticks the first ascent of High Times (5.13b), a steep, northeast-facing line on Drug Dome in Tuolumne Meadows. A longtime Yosemite local, Ditto ticked his initial first ascent on one of climbing’s holiest grounds as a means of finding motivation again after a period of social-media driven “living the dream” malaise. Owen Bissell captures the pitch-by-pitch essence of the ten-day, hand-drilled, four-pitch, free climbing rebirth in this stunning edit from the Sierra high ground.
Desert Gold, one of the most classic roof cracks in the desert, lies just north of Black Velvet Canyon in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Las Vegas, Nevada. After a 5.8 approach pitch, the crux pitch follows an overhanging finger crack which widens from tips through all finger crack sizes to thin hands to reach the roof. The roof crack also progressively widens from hands to cupped hands toward the lip. The roof itself was first free-climbed by Paul Van Betten in 1984, after aiding the finger crack. He later returned and led the crack leading to the roof free in 1987. Yet, Stefan Glowacz was the first to free climb the entire crux pitch of Desert Gold as one, also in 1987, and receives credit for the first integral ascent. The golden Aztec sandstone crack is atypical of the Red Rock style patina face climbing and this route is a must-do for all crack aficionados.
Steph Davis from the Sharp End movie, by Sender Films--the North Chimney of Castleton Tower in Moab, Utah, and Pervertical Sanctuary on the Longs Peak Diamond.
Chris Sharma sends "Dessèchement planétaire" (8c - 5.14b FA) during the Petzl RocTrip Tarn 2013.
It was the first ascent of this amazing route above the water, located in the L'Oasif sector, in the Gorges du Tarn, France.
Watch as award-winning teenagers, Ashima Shiraishi and Kai Lightner climb to new heights in the Flatanger Cave in Norway on 5.14-5.15 terrain.
The La Grave cablecar is an icon of big-mountain freeskiing, a unique lift that accesses some of the most classic unmarked and unpatrolled steep-skiing descents in the Alps. As La Grave faces historic challenges—its main road closed by rockfall and the continued operation of the cablecar in doubt—we take an insider's view of “Le Telepherique” and what’s at stake in the uncertain future of this backcountry mecca.
// Finalist for the Banff Mountain Film Festival //
How do you create a life that balances work, family and your passion for the mountains? In the first episode of BDTV, we travel to Jämtland, Sweden, where Henrik Westling recently became the first person to climb and ski every one of the region's 178 summits. In doing so, he did more than accomplish a goal: he found a way of living that will inspire you to rethink how you create balance in your life.
Presented by Black Diamond.
"Roctripers" gather around the main square of the historic thermal town of Baile Herculane in south Romania, for the opening of this years Petzl Roctrip. The first leg of a six week adventure across Eastern Europe has now begun, and here is movie of the first episode.