In the summer of 2014 Dave MacLeod set his sights on opening a hard new route on Cima Ovest in the Italian Dolomites. A bold objective for anyone at any time. For Dave though, this project brought with it some of the greatest challenges he has ever faced. Over 4 weeks in the Dolomites consistently bad weather left just a handful of days where it was possible to get on the wall at all. But these precious few chances to make progress were compounded by the backdrop of a much more personal challenge. A series of injury problems had left Dave unsure of not only his ability to climb the route, but even questioning his future as an elite climber. Despite the clouds hanging over him, Dave persevered and by applying his trademark total commitment was able to push beyond what seemed possible and go on to shatter his personal expectations.
January 2015 dry tooling ... Left of Argentiere glacier , Blade Stadium area , Chamonix Mont-Blanc massif ... New way of Jeff Mercier and Nasser Samar ... Sanction Stylish , 100m, 3 lengths : D6 / D9 / D5 Pitch 2 features athletic, technical and with good potential thefts, setting up points of protection and investment delicate blades to find ...
Kristallwand, Alpine FA of the route Music of Chance on Kirchkogel (3280m), Austria by Hansjorg Auer who has climbed dozens of cutting-edge new routes. He established The Music of Chance 5.11b, A3 on the Kristallwand Face in Austria in 2012 joined by his brothers Vito and Matthias, Ben Lepsant, Elias Holzknecht and Berti Gleirscher.
"J'ai demandé la lune au rocher", english version. Climbing a beautiful and extreme slab multi-pitch in Corsica, Stéphanie Bodet offers a singular and poetical vision of climbing. Deep and joyful is the way she found to live and evolve with her passion. A love for rocks and nature she shares since 20 years in couple, with Arnaud Petit.
The Himalayas from 20,000 ft from Teton Gravity Research.
In 2001 Doug Coombs and legendary local Ptor Spricenieks were some of the first people to ski the “Ice Line” in La Grave, France. Now thirteen years later, inspired by their heroes, Johnny Collinson, Ian McIntosh, & their guide Joey Vallone look to repeat this rarely skied descent. Ptor recently reflected on his experience with Doug in 2001, "I'm pretty sure it started with a conversation by radio. Doug and I were neighbors but we never used the phone. None the less, the time for 'that' line on the Glacier de la Meije was at hand...something we'd been looking at and scheming about together. As usual when that magic of timing and mutual inspiration come together, the mission is effortless. Too bad we were too busy flowing along to take pictures. The memories however, are super burned into my being. I remember how awed we both were to be in the middle of such a run. Despite Doug's casual attitude towards things, he was the most awed that I had ever seen that day. 'Full meal deal' I think was his superlative. Thanks Doug."
"Ritter der Kokosnuss" M12 Trad Style 165m, 2nd repeat by Ines Papert.
Edu Marin is one of the strongest sport climbers in the world. His father 'Novato' is perhaps THE strongest 62 year-old. It was only a matter of time before they joined forces for a project: and oh, what a project. They decided to take on Panaroma, a face on one of the Tre cime di Lavaredo peaks in the Dolomites. Panaroma, 8c, towers among the hardest big wall routes in the world, especially given that some of the holds on one of the 8b+ pitches have broken and nobody has sent it since. Tie in with Edu and Novato for an emotional adventure that will take them into the very heart of their relationship and to the peak of one of the world's great climbs.
Ines Papert: Reflection. After years of dominating the competition circuit, Ines Papert now dedicates her time to exploring new locations and putting up first ascents of cutting-edge ice and mixed climbs all over the world.
In this 1970 “CBS Evening News” report, climbers Dean Caldwell and Warren Harding make history as the first to climb El Capitan’s “Wall of Early Morning Light.” Now known as “Dawn Wall,” it's the same cliff face that Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell free-climbed in an equally historic feat. While both had their challenges, the 1970 climb would prove to be more controversial thanks to a spat between the climbers and the National Park Service.
On January 14, 2015, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson made the first free ascent of The Dawn Wall on Yosemite's El Capitan. Watch Tommy climb pitch 15 (5.14c) in this first footage released by the film crew on the wall. “The crux holds of pitch 15 are some of the smallest and sharpest holds I have ever attempted to hold onto,” Tommy wrote on his Facebook page. Four unique camera angles reveal those minuscule holds and the 1,300 feet of exposure under Tommy’s precarious foot placements. While multiple pitches of extremely difficult climbing remained above, the completion of pitch 15 was considered the last major hurdle to the eventual success of this seven-year project. Note: Pitch 15 was originally rated 5.14d, but was downgraded slightly after the completion of the route.
Long considered impossible, coveted by many and attempted by a few, the Fitz Traverse has fueled the imaginations of climbers in Patagonia for decades. Tracing the iconic skyline of Cerro Fitz Roy and its six satellite peaks, it spans four miles and 13,000 feet across snow and ice-covered rock, with epic route finding and endless rapelling. Seizing their chance during a rare extended weather window, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold went big. The pair completed the first ascent in a five-day push during February 2014.
Tommy Caldwell has spent six years working to free climb The Dawn Wall, on the 3,000 foot El Capitan, in Yosemite National Park, CA. Along with his partner, Kevin Jorgeson, Caldwell is currently half way up the wall, hoping to succeed on the hardest big wall free climb in the world. In this bonus clip from the new film Valley Uprising, Tommy describes his Dawn Wall obsession, and the parallels with one of Yosemite's pioneers, Warren Harding, who first aid climbed the route in 1970.