Cordillera Blanca of Peru
2012 Expedition Report
with ascents/attempts of:
Vallunaraju (18,895′) & Huascaran (22, 205′)
Michael Tobin and Buster Jesik
w/ Eli Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides
and support by the Vargas family.
Huascaran north and south summits (L-R) with the obvious saddle between (the garganta) defining these two highest points in Peru. Our route followed the shadowed left-hand skyline of the closer and higher south summit where we reached approx. 19.5k before turning back.
Buster at the entrance of the glacier on Vallunaraju- nearby where locals have mined ice for millenia to use in refrigeration and for special refreshments.
Vallunaraju as viewed from our hotel in Huaraz.
Buster and Eli on the summit of Vallunaraju with the northern Cordillera Blanca and nearby Ocshapalca on the right side of the frame.
The summit crevasse on Vallunaraju looking directly down 600m to the glacier on its north aspect.
Calm and clear skies at sunset bode well for our climb of Vallunaraju the next day. a
Buster enjoying some pristine bouldering at 12k in the foothills above Huaraz.
Street scenes in Huaraz.
Adobe bricks drying under a tropical sun and a farmer plowing potato fields with oxen and a steel blade nearby the pueblo of Musho where our Huascaran approach started.
A view from nearby the summit of Vallunaraju of the Huantsan massif to the southeast.
Buster, Mike, and Eli at our high point on Huascaran.
Sunset over the Cordillera Negra and the nearby Pacific Ocean as viewed from Huascaran high camp.
Eli Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides is returning to the Cordillera Blanca of Peru in September of 2014 for twelve and seventeen day climbing trips with climbers looking to expand their abilities in high altitude climbing.
Peru requires that all guides are IFMGA licensed and Eli is one of the few Spanish speaking and 21 years experience specializing in climbing trips in the Andes of Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina (including Patagonia).
Please call with questions or to book your next backcountry skiing, mountaineering, or rock climbing trip:
970-744-4898. or contact us at: firstname.lastname@example.org
ClimbingLife Guides is an authorized permittee of Rocky Mountain National Park, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Denali National Park, and the Boulder Mountain Open Space.
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