Tiger's Tooth is one of the better off-width sized cracks at Lumpy Ridge as it is relatively straight-forward for fans of this crack genre.

Tiger's Tooth  5.10a

Twin Owls Formation, Lumpy Ridge

First Ascent: Pat Ament and Layton Kor, mid-60's.. 

The south face of the Twin Owls is the most consistently steep section of rock at Lumpy Ridge and the Tiger's Tooth is an outstanding vertical crack on one of the most prominent features of this striking spire.

Description: 

Tiger's Tooth was first ascended by the dynamic duo of Layton Kor and Pat Ament, perhaps two of the most accomplished and celebrated first ascenscionists of their generation.   Originally rated 9+ as there was no higher rating back in the 1960's when it was first ascended, we are giving it a slight upgrade to 5.10a as unless you have fists the size of grapefruit (the leader in these photos does have paws that big) it will be a very challenging grunt up this "awful-width" crack.  When it was first climbed, there were no camming devices or protection wide enough to protect these size cracks but climber's of this era often preferred climbing the wider cracks as they felt more secure being able to jam their bodies into these limb-sucking fissures.  Either way, it would have been a bold first ascent with minimal protection, strenuous climbing, and with the rope tied around the waist- no saying "take" on this one.

Approach: 

From the new Lumpy Ridge parking lot, follow the new trail out of the east end of the lot to GEM LAKE and proceed for 2/3 of a mile up the hill until one reaches the trail junction to the Twin Owls which is a LEFT turn and then over a small pass which gives great views of the SE side of the Twin Owls before heading down the trail to the west for 200 yards to reach the turn-off  (signed) RIGHT up to the Twin Owls and Gollum's Arch cliffs.  Take the trail junctions left when presented with options and proceed along the base of the cliff on the "Roosting Ramp" past the"Crack of Fear" and uphill until the wide crack which splits the east side of the Tooth is reached.

Pitch 1 -  (5.10a)

This is the meat of the route and pretty much "the gift that keeps on giving" until one reaches the roomy belay ledge at the top of the Tooth.    The crux comes at the mid-height and the upper chimney will offer some respite from the 6" wide crack below.  Anchor in the cracks above this ledge on the main wall of the Twin Owls.  Numerous large cams will make this section more reasonable in regard to protection. (30m)

       Steve Johnson cranking past some smaller gear at the upper horizontal break in the Tiger's Tooth

               Attempting shrinkage before the upper 'squeeze chimney"  section of the Tiger's Tooth

Pitch 2 -  (5.7 or 5.9)

Numerous options exist to take one to the summit.  The three main crack systems above the "Tooth" are from R-L rated 5.9, 5.7 and 5.3, so depending on your strength and desires at this point, choose your best option.  (30m to the top)

The south face of theTwin Owls with Tiger's Tooth in blue and from (L-R): Silly Putty (12a), Anaconda (13c), Central Chimney (8), and Crack of Fear (11a)

Descent

From the west summit, traverse into the notch between the "Owls" and 3rd class down  and north to a large ledge from which a short traverse left takes one into the "Bowels of the Owl" which are rated 5.1 and easy enough to chimney-downclimb sans protection.  Otherwise, a rappel anchor must be built in this area to facilitate an 80' rappel down to the ground on this side of the cliff. 

Gear Beta:

A small rack with doubles in the #5 and #6 camalot sizes will make this a more reasonably protected lead.

                                                 BD Camalots size 3-6 (R-L)