Toot is a short and pumpy route which stays in the shade all morning.  The crux to this 10c route is the 11a move required to get off the ground. 

Toot  5.10c (w/ 11a start)

Book Formation, Lumpy Ridge

First Ascent: Dan McClure and Molly Higgins, 1976 

                                The approach to Toot in green with the route in red

Description: 

A high quality one-pitch route which can be combined with many finishes above or top-roped off of the anchor on Pear Buttress which is directly above Toot.

Getting off of the ground is the crux of this short route (90') and the pile of rocks at the base helps a bit with reaching the first holds but above there it is a long reach up and right to the start of very positive holds on a very clean and protectable crack system.

The first move is at least 11a and like many Joshua Tree routes, does not count into the rating as it is just a "boulder problem" at that point.  Except that this boulder problem has a very bad landing and so many climbers stick-place a large nut in the high first jam and pre-clip the rope "sport-climbing style" to safe-guard against this tricky start.

                            Just above the first crux getting ready to stand-up into the second crux.

Approach: 

From the Lumpy Ridge parking lot, follow the new trail west over the small pass then down to the original parking lot which has been replanted and for a total of 2 miles total to the turn-off which is well signed for the Book, Bookend, and Bookmark formations up the hill.

After about 100 yards up the hill, another trail junction will be encountered, right to the Book and left to the Bookmark, Left Book and Bookend.  Take the RIGHT turn here and continue up to the base of the cliff which is the Book and stay left at the trail base junction although the route is above and to the right.  Head right for 30 yards and uphill 30' to reach the base of the Book which is near George's Tree (9+) which is a straight-in flared crack with a small tree growing about 20' above the ground.  Continue walking right until one comes to the end of the road and just right of the final dihedral is the thin, steep cracks that are the start of Toot.

                                                     Toot in red with Pear Buttress in green

Pitch 1

The bouldery 5.11a start to reach the right-hand jamis all about sticking some small edges for the feet and cranking high with still thin feet for a few more moves.  Move left above the start, protecting in the central crack with small nuts and cams until it opens up to #1 and 2 camalot size and still packs a punch up to the break.

                                                           In the middle of the business

The alternative finish, staying in the overhanging dihedral directly above the crack and then moving onto the face keeps the climbing in the 10+ range with reasonable gear.  Otherwise, move right after the initial difficulties and join the last 5.7 crack section for 30' up to the ledge with piton/nut anchor.

Descent

Rappel from the two-piece piton and nut-chain anchor which is about 25m from the anchor to the base of Toot.  From the top of the cliff, the walk-off descent takes about 15 minutes and is best done in sneakers.  In rock shoes, the more direct and exposed "climber's descent" is the favored way down.

Gear Beta:

At least one #3 camalot is is helpful for the upper crack section but not necessary. A single rack of camalots from a .25 up to #2 would be helpful plus a few nuts and short slings are all that is necessary.