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Loose Ends is another of the five-star Book classics and as this one packs a punch in a number of spots, it has been given the elusive 9+ rating. Hold on tight and enjoy this fantastic route up the middle of the cliff.
Loose Ends II 5.9+
Book Formation, Lumpy Ridge
First Ascent: Unknown.
Loose Ends is the middle of the three green routes in this topo
Description:
One of the all-time classic granite routes in the Front Range when combined with any number of exit pitches which reach the top of the Book Formation.
Getting off of the ground can be one of the cruxes to this route as the start is steep enough and reachy enough between jams to get one's attention. Luckily it can be sown up with nuts let alone a rack of cams; the only problem is leaving enough room for your fingers. Two more pitches of thin crack cimbing and steep laybacking lead to the "Exit Wall" from which many alternative finishing pitches take one to the top.
A topo of the Book with the first 350' of the Loose Ends outlined in green
Approach:
From the Lumpy Ridge parking lot, follow the new trail west over the small pass then down to the original parking lot which has been replanted and for a total of 2 miles total to the turn-off which is well signed for the Book, Bookend, and Bookmark formations up the hill.
After about 100 yards up the hill, another trail junction will be encountered, right to the Book and left to the Bookmark, Left Book and Bookend. Take the RIGHT turn here and continue up to the base of the cliff which has a small break right when the rock is first reached. There is an obvious slab at the far left of the cliff with a small cave under it. Loose Ends is the thin left-facing corner/ flake that is just right of the big tree at the base.
Pitch 1
The opening moves are well protected but involve reachy cranks between solid finger jams. Definitely a tough way to start the day. This entire first 50' can be protected with nuts as the slots are such perfect constrictions. Often an anchor exists at the top of this section over a slung horn which can be convenient for top-roping on those rainy summer afternoons.
From the top of the initial corner, follow the left-trending crack up to a pod belay stance at about 130'. The climber on the right is on J-crack,
Pitch 2
The initial moves left out of the pod cross one crack which is the Visual Aids (10b) crack and continue to the furthest left crack on the wall which is initially very thin and then opens up quickly into hand and finger size jams.
The initial thin crack sews up with small brass nuts or tiny cams.
It is a short "boulder-problem" through this thin section up into the hand crack which continues up to join the big left-facing dihedral.
The upper part of the pitch 2 crack just below the ledge where an optional belay exists or continue climbing up and right to join thg big left-facing dihedral.
Pitch 3
The big left-facing dihedral pitch is my favorite of the route as it is a sustained layback for about 80' with decent footholds and great gear up to where it joins the Pear Buttress route. A direct finish that goes straight above the dihedral is a little more interesting; follow the right-trending ramp up to the belay ledge that is most comfortable.
From here there are many finishing options from 5.8- 5.11 that exit this part of the wall. They are all quite good, the Hurley Variation is the quickest and with just a few feet of 5.9, a relatively easy way to top out.
Descent
The walk-off descent which takes about 15 minutes and is best done in sneakers is highly recommended. In rock shoes, the more direct and exposed "climber's descent" is the favored way down.
Gear Beta:
A typical Lumpy Ridge rack should be enough for this route. It has no particular wide sections or sustained thin parts to it. As long pitches can be done, plenty of shoulder-length runners, up to 15 for a 60 meter pitch and doubles in all cam sizes will be helpful. The more you place the less you carry!
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