This Left Book description includes all of the moderate routes that gain Paperback Ledge from the far western ramparts of the Book Formation at Lumpy Ridge.  The Left Book is a 120m slab split with many cracks and corners on solid granite with cracks from thin to small bisecting this monolithic escarpment. Above Paperback ledge are numerous finishes to the summit from 5.6 to 5.12 in difficulty.

Left Book Slab-   Book Formation, Lumpy Ridge

Description: 

The routes that connect together all of the obvious cracks of the left (west) side of the Book Formation were mostly discovered by climbers in the 1960's and 70's although a few of the more obscure or protection-less variations were discovered after the "Golden Period".   Many of the Left Book routes can be combines with a few friction moves or traverses from one crack to the next to make for a "best of" combination or to avoid being slowed in a traffic jam on the cliff.   So although these routes are shown here in their somewhat "original" form, many variations exist which climbers often purposely or accidently find on an ascent.

Approach:  

From the Lumpy Ridge parking lot, follow the new trail west over the small pass then down to the original parking lot which has been replanted and for a total of 2 miles total to the turn-off which is well signed for the Book, Bookend, and Bookmark formations up the hill.

After about 100 yards up the hill, another trail junction will be encountered, right to the Book and left to the Bookmark, Left Book and Bookend.  Take the LEFT turn here and continue up a few minutes to another trail junction to the Bookmark or Bookend.  Here take the RIGHT to the Bookmark and once reaching the base of the cliff which is a smooth monolithic face, stay left along the base of the cliff where the trail continues past the magnificent routes of the Bookmark and continues up for another 5 minutes to the base of the large slab that is the Left Book.

Descent:

Walk northwest at first on the slabs at the base of the headwall (or do another pitches above from 5.7+ to 5.12)  or follow the faint trail down about 30' from the cliff edge.  Near the bottom it becomes steeper 2nd and 3rd class for a short section before returning to the cliff base.

Warning:  The squirrels here are skilled at eating through and opening packs and will not hesitate to have their way with anything left at the cliff base.  Advanced hanging techniques or better yet, bringing all edibles with you is the best way to avoid losing your lunch or choking a chipmunk with a cliff bar. 

B = Common Belay Stance    

R= Runout section of climbing with little or no protection.  All runouts are NOT noted, just the biggest.

 7 = rating at the crux section of a pitch

Route Descriptions:

1.  Zingando 5.5   Two worthy pitches on solid rock with a long approach.

P1- 50m  (5.5)  The furthest route left on this slab, scramble up along the cliff edge all to rope-up where a small ledge below a steep left-facing corner/flake system starts-up on good holds and ample protection.  The initial crack curves left and as for many of these routes, larger gear both cams, tri-cams, and nuts along with 24" long runners can be helpful in protecting this wandering and long crack system.  The crux comes mid-way up at a short overhang which can be protected well with larger cams.  A belay ledge on the right with a small tree makes for a long pitch with numerous small stances and cracks for anchors along the entire route. 

P2 - 50m (5.4) Continue up the same crack system which diagonals right above the tree belay ledge and continues angling right on the slab to meet-up with the top of the Cottontail route near the apex of the Paperback Ledge.  Walk-off.

2. Cottontail  5.6    The second pitch is what you walked all this way for- a real winner.

P1- 50m  (5.6) Start left of a bushy crack system that curves up and left, forming a small overhang.  Stay well below this obstacle on a lumpy, groovy crack systems that open up enough for gear placements and after a half-rope length where the crack turns-up, do the same through steeper rock (5.6) to reach the left-facing dihedral to a good ledge at its top.

P2 - 50m (5.6) Climb up slabby rock to reach the steep, prominent dihedral that forms a natural box corner on this side of the Left  Book slab.  Numerous cracks of all sizes lace the dihedral which can be laybacked, stemmed or jammed for its duration to Paperback Ledge.

Climbers on Cottontail and Manifest Destiny (L-R)

3.  Manifest Destiny  5.7  One of my favorites here especially combined with either of the "R" rated variations on the slab of the second pitch.  

P1- 35m  (5.7)  This is the first prominent left-facing dihedral to the left of the landmark, White Whale.  Climb past a small tree that makes for good pro and then layback into the left-facing dihedral which sits on the edge of another larger left-facing corner.  Layback then opposition on two crack systems with ample protection, an awkward layback move is the crux and a 10m sustained section of laybacking that reaches a bushy, deep ledge with a balanced rock on the outside that may someday kill the crowd.

P2- 50m  (5.7R)  Go left to the right-facing dihedral out of the belay then left through a small slot, traverse left up to a loose flake, place solid gear below and right, and for the runout version, go straight up the slab  on good edges for 25' to reach a solid crack which connects with White Whale's second pitch belay stance.  A second "R" rated crystal groove it 15' left of this face and provides another gearless version in the same direction.  Or continue on the wide crack left "G" towards the Cottontail Dihedral but take a crack back right and follow this up the final ramp/ledge.

P3- 20m (5.6R)  Climb through a bulge past a fixed piton and step right onto the slab with sparse protection before the upper flakes and corners just below Paperback Ledge.   Or stay left on the ramp/ledge for 10m to finish the route.

Josh leading the first pitch of White Whale.

4.  The Dog   5.7R    The first pitch is a bit grassy and sparse on gear but it climbs well.  The second pitch is the money one as it connects together numerous cracks up the center of the slab.

P1 - 35m (5.7R)  A small hanging left-facing corner sits just 30' left of White Whale's wide section.  Thin gear and thin moves are a morning wake-up stronger than coffee and when the dihedral runs out, step left onto the balancing block on the right side of the Manifest Destiny ledge, below a big left-facing dihedral.

P2- 55m (5.7)  With wide gear in the initial right-facing dihedral or some runouts, climb through the crack at the right apex and link together the cracks that head straight-up then diagonaling left to a two-person sized pod.

P3- 20m (5.6R)  Climb out of the pod on a layback move then up to the ramp where the left- hand bulge past a fixed piton provides a landmark (if not solid gear) and step right onto the slab with sparse protection before the upper flakes and corners just below Paperback Ledge.   Or stay left on the ramp/ledge for 10m to finish the routes "G" finish.

In the upper second pitch of The Dog.

5.  White Whale  5.7  This is the most classic line on the cliff and the one that draws all the lines on busy weekends.  A well deserved classic with many variations on the second pitch.

P1-  40m  (5.7)  Climb past loose "sucker blocks" sitting below a hanging left-facing corner with a large tree on top.  The corner affords the first good pro and the tree is another solid piece before larger cams (#1-3 camalots) are necessary to sew-up the wide-layback with good feet that is the obvious clean crack going up to the left edge of a small overhang.  Follow the cracks around the left of the overhang and belay from the crack above the tree.

P2-  50m  (5.7)  Step left out of the belay into a crack system which quickly becomes finger thin with minimal small nuts in the middle but then larger gear where a pod opens up for a rest.  Step left across a slab or continue straight up on thin cracks again to the base of the large arching roof where a belay stance exists in the pod to the left.

P3- 20m (5.6R)  Climb out of the pod on a layback move then up to the ramp where the left- hand bulge past a fixed piton provides a landmark (if not solid gear) and step right onto the slab with sparse protection before the upper flakes and corners just below Paperback Ledge.   Or stay left on the ramp/ledge for 10m to finish the routes "G" finish.

6.  Hiatus  5.7+R   The first pitch is a classic despite the runout crux and the second pitch is a beautiful dihedral that would require more large cams (#5 or equivalent Big-Bro) than I care to carry- so two pitches with big runouts on beautiful climbing. 

P1- 40m (5.7R)   Start in grassy cracks 20' right of White Whale which are below the obvious small roof which is underclinged right to a thin crack above and then a gearless slab on great edges for 25' of runout to the good cracks below the big roof with the tree ledge on top.  Stay left to gain this ledge.

P2- 50m  (5.7R)  Scramble up the ledge right to the big left-facing dihedral which forms the right edge of this part of the slab.  Place your big pieces here or run it out until the crack thins and follow this arch left to join pod belay or stop at the left edge of the arch for a slab stance.

P3- 20m (5.7R)  Climb through the pod to the layback and left-leaning crack, once on the ramp, take the first small right-facing corner which offers a solid #10 stopper after a body length, and then a few pods that lead up the slab to a flake and horizontal cracks that protect the moves before the ledge and big tree anchor on Paperback Ledge.  This is my favorite finishing pitch on the Left Book and it is an ankle breaker if you miss some of the moves.

6.5.  Ten Years After 5.9RX

I haven't climbed this pitch except for climbing through the overhang on the first pitch, but coming into it from Hiatus.  This makes for a thin 5.9R roof on less-climbed rock.  However, I can't recommend the rest of this route as it would probably be better to solo due to the lack of gear on the upper pitches.

7.  Beelzebub 5.7R   The first pitch is groundfall 5.6 slab for 40' until you reach the bushy crack which leads up to a stellar second pitch on the right side of the Hiatus pillar.

P1- 40m (5.7R)  Climb crisp edges 25' right of the Hiatus start, aiming for a crack which starts 40' above the ground that holds a few bushes.  Once you reach this crack, the "R" rating is over for the rest of the pitch which ends at the bottom of the big right-facing dihedral.

P2-  50m (5.7)  Climb the dihedral to its apex then step right into wide cracks and grooves which trend back left towards the far-right edge of Paperback Ledge.  Belay whereever looks convenient.

P3 - 30m (5.7)  Continue up grooved cracks to the Paperback Ledge and a tree anchor.

Joanne topping out on the White Whale.

8.  Moby Dick  (40m) 5.8+  If you call it something else, write me and I'll change the name. I've climbed it and likely so has someone else. 

P1-  This obvious crack on the left side of this other "tombstone" is gained via some dirty climbing to the 30m crack of lichen with some pretty good jams.  Bring a full rack and put it all in. Rappel from slings on horns into either gully.

9.  Nefarius  (40m)  5.8+  Worthy of an ascent if you're here and have the time.

P1- Gain the ramp up to the base of the left-facing corner that is the crux and climbs well despite the rarity of ascent.  Continue to the summit on steep flakes and rappel off sling horns into the adjacent gully.