In traditionally protected mixed climbing, the climber's rack is perhaps the most crucial choice in regard to the type and number of pieces of gear necessary for a given route.  The ideal arrangement is one which adequately protects every pitch while keeping extra weight to a minimum.  In the most demanding alpine environments, having enough but no extra equipment can be the key to success and survival.

I have chosen to use Black Diamond screws, pitons, cams, nuts, carabiners and slings for my mixed climbing rack as their more than 20 years of design innovation and unparalleled quality control give me the confidence to climb at my limit of ability.  A single set of  camalots from #1 C3 through a #2 camalot with doubles in the .5 and .4 sizes plus a set of nuts that are dedicated solely to "nut-heading"  makes for a somewhat complete set of rock protection.  

A handful of pitons which include a few small knifeblades and lost arrows rounds-out the rock portion of the rack.  Depending on the amount of anticipated ice on a given route, I might take more or less than the seven screws pictured, two of which are 12cm with the rest being the 17cm length.

For slingage, around a dozen runners with the majority being shoulder-length (24") along with a couple of quickdraws and at least a few of the Yates brand load-limiters add some cheap insurance to more questionable or important placements.  A couple of double shoulder-length runners (48") can be helpful for anchoring or slinging icicles.

For ropes, 60m is an average length and a 9.3mm single-rated lead line combined with a 7mm "tag-line" is the lightest and most versatile combination for the mountains.  The 7mm can be combined with the  lead line for rappelling up to 60m and it can also be used for hauling packs through the more difficult sections of a route.

Not everything necesary is included in this photo, but there is a rechargeable headlamp which runs for more than 100 hours on it's LED bulbs plus a first-aid kit which is more likely to be necessary in the alpine environment.  

A pair of trauma shears are more effective and versatile than a knife when it comes to self-rescue or first-aid and they can cut a rope much easier than a knife.  

Lawn-type plastic bags or a bivy sack would be another piece of emergency equipment that could aid in survival, especially for an injured climber. 

For more remote climbs, a shovel or small shelter such as a BD Betamid plus a small stove and pot could be essential gear in the case of an accident or injury for keeping someone alive while waiting for assistance.  The combined weight of this shelter and a small stove can be less than 1.5 pounds- a small insurance policy should the best laid plans go wrong.

  The flat overhand knot connecting together the rope and tag line for a rappel.

• How's your Abalakov?
• Alpine Anchors Part II
• Is your rap anchor solid?

• A History of Camming Devices
• What's on your rock rack?
• Trad Rock Anchor Refinement