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Alaska Range Ski Mountaineering

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Images from an April 2009 ski mountaineering trip to the Little Switzerland area of the Alaska Range.

alaska ski trip
 

Little Switzerland Ski Mountaineering
 
 


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We enjoyed a week-long ski trip into the Pika Glacier of Alaska in mid-April in an area seldom visited by skiers.  Most climbers arrive here in June to take advantage of the dry rock, 24hr. daylight, and soaring buttresses that make Little Switzerland one of the best alpine rock areas in Alaska.  

Our Colorado based ski team of Eli Helmuth, Mike Reis, and Mike Arnold enjoyed amazing powder conditions and we've vowed to make this an annual pilgrimage to one of the great ski mountaineering ranges in the world. For more information and details on our planned 2010 trip, click
here.

ski mountaineering alaska

Eli starting a steep descent from Munchkin/Royal Tower col into the upper Crown Glacier.
              

ski mountaineering alaska climbinglife guides

Loading up the turbo-prop Otter in the town of Talkeetna, the departure point for most Alaskan climbing and skiing expeditions into the Alaska Range.  Town was very quiet this time of year as the climbing season had just begun. and we had no problem getting to the glacier just 24hrs after leaving home in Colorado.

 

 


ski mountaineering alaska climbinglife guides

Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi (TAT) is the best pilot in the Alaska Range and we were psyched to have him drop us off at our destination.  Due to there being other passengers heading to other parts of the AK Range, we were able to get in an extra 30 minutes of flight time and a tour of the Ruth Gorge and Tokositna glacier on our flight.

 

 

mooses tooth ruth glacier alaska

The south face of the Mooses Tooth contains the classic and popular ice and mixed route "Ham and Eggs"- ClimbingLife Guides, Eli Helmuth will be offering an ascent of this route as well as the neighboring Peak 11,300' Southwest Ridge Route in May of 2010.

 

gargoyle buttress ruth glacier alaska

 

The 2,000' sheer west face of the Gargoyle Buttress is but a bump in the Ruth Glacier, situated across the valley from the 3k tall east face of Mt. Barrill and the 5k tall east face of Mount Dickey.

 

ski mountaineering alaska climbinglife guides
Checking out the view from Munchkin/Royal Tower col in our first  hours on the ground.  We were sick with powder fever for the first few days of the trip and skied until 11pm some nights due to the abundant and quality powder snow conditions which blanketed these valleys and cirques nearby the Pika Glacier.

 

ski mountaineering climbinglife guides

A view of our campsite with the plane ski tracks poised in front of the gorgeous west face of The Trolls.  We will be returning in mid-June to make ascents of these fantastic rock buttresses, including the Middle Troll  - III 5.8.

 

ski mountaineering alaska climbinglife guides

On our second day we made a climb and ski descent of the steepest couloir of the week, the 1,500' tall, 50 degree angled Crown Jewel Couloir.  Deep snow made for a strenuous climb and so we searched out easier to access couloirs after this one.
 
 

ski mountaineering alaska climbinglife guides

The east face of the Royal Tower is a 2,000' high granite massif with amazing rock and mixed climbing potential. We saw dozens of routes that were in great ice condition during our time on the Pika, and with all of the climbers in the range searching for minimal ice on the Ruth Glacier, it seems that the potential here for new mixed routes is huge.


ski mountaineering alaska climbinglife guides

Mid-way through our trip, we did a huge journey across four glacier systems which included this climb of the 1,600' southeast couloir on Your Highness and concluded with a ski descent of the north facing glaciers that dump into the  grand Kahiltna Glacier.  With more than 13 miles of skiing and 4k of climbing, we slept in the next morning after this big adventure.


ski mountaineering climbinglife guides
Chewi and Arnold making an exposed traverse across the southern flanks of Your Highness (8,110'), with the southern edge of the Alaska Range and the town of Talkeetna, approx. 30 miles in the distance.

 

ski mountaineering alaska climbinglife guides

Arnold at the downward conclusion of our ski descent through two icefalls, across three peaks and about half-way through our 13 mile journey.

 

ski mountaineering climbinglife guides

The slow uphill grind up the Pika Glacier and back to our camp, just below the furthest sunlit arete in the distance- only 5 miles to go


ski mountaineering climbinglife guides

 Although it was cold in the morning hours (0F), we stayed relatively warm and sheltered inside of our kitchen tent and along with fresh coffee, we enjoyed breakfasts of bacon/cheese omelets and grilled bagels with cream cheese.  

 

 

 

ski mountaineering climbinglife guides

Evening meals were a mix of grilled burritos, pasta with sauces and on this evening, Arnold's favorite of sausage and onions grilled to perfection and served over penne pasta.  Freeze-dried meals are for those who can't cook or have to carry huge packs and on this 'plane-camping" trip,  we had no problem eating well in the wilds of Alaska.

 

 

ski mountaineering climbinglife guides

Our minimum-impact campsite on the Pika Glacier was just 100' from where we were dropped off, and we saw only two planes for our entire week in the peaks.  Some of our favorite north-facing powder filled ski slopes are in the background.  The left-hand rock ridge is the Munchkin.

 

ski mountaineering climbinglife guides

Chewi setting the track up to Munchkin Col in the afternoon light.  Blue skies were the weather pattern for almost our entire trip.  A foot of new powder fell on our second night and by noon the next day, the sun returned and it was sunburn that created one of the bigger risks of our adventure.

 


middle troll pika glacier alaska
The Middle Troll covered in winter snow.  The middle rock buttress is an excellent III 5.8 route.


Eli Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides is returning to the Pika Glacier in June of 2009 for a week-long alpine rock climbing trip.  Click here for more details of this upcoming Alaskan adventure which is open to experienced rock climbers who are comfortable on multi-pitch routes up to low 5.8 in difficulty.

Call with questions or to book your next backcountry skiing or rock climbing trip:

  970.744.4898 or contact us at: 

     pin1  texty  pin2           

ClimbingLife Guides is an authorized mountain guide service in Denali National Park and Preserve.

 

www.climbinglife.com



© ClimbingLife Guides, 2009  All Rights Reserved

 


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