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Little Switzerland Ski Mountaineering
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We
enjoyed a week-long ski trip into the Pika Glacier of Alaska
in mid-April in an area seldom visited by skiers. Most
climbers arrive here in June to take advantage of the dry
rock, 24hr. daylight, and soaring buttresses that make Little
Switzerland one of the best alpine rock areas in Alaska.
Our Colorado based ski team of Eli Helmuth, Mike Reis, and Mike Arnold
enjoyed amazing powder conditions and we've vowed to make this an
annual pilgrimage to one of the great ski mountaineering ranges in the
world. For more information and details on our planned 2010 trip, click
here.

Eli
starting a steep descent from Munchkin/Royal Tower col into
the upper Crown Glacier.
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Loading up the
turbo-prop Otter in the town of Talkeetna, the departure point for most
Alaskan climbing and skiing expeditions into the Alaska Range.
Town was very quiet this time of year as the climbing season
had just begun. and we had no problem getting to the glacier just 24hrs
after leaving home in Colorado.
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Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi (TAT) is the best pilot in the
Alaska Range and we were psyched to have him drop us off at our
destination. Due to there being other passengers heading to
other parts of the AK Range, we were able to get in an extra 30 minutes
of flight time and a tour of the Ruth Gorge and Tokositna glacier on
our flight.
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The south face of the Mooses Tooth contains the classic and popular ice
and mixed route "Ham and Eggs"- ClimbingLife Guides, Eli Helmuth will
be offering an ascent of this route as well as the neighboring Peak
11,300' Southwest Ridge Route in May of 2010.
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The 2,000' sheer west face of the Gargoyle Buttress is but a bump in
the Ruth Glacier, situated across the valley from the 3k tall east face
of Mt. Barrill and the 5k tall east face of Mount Dickey.
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Checking out the
view from Munchkin/Royal Tower col in our first hours on the
ground. We were sick with powder fever for the first few days
of the trip and skied until 11pm some nights due to the abundant and
quality powder snow conditions which blanketed these valleys and
cirques nearby the Pika Glacier.
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A view of our campsite with the plane ski tracks poised in front of the
gorgeous west face of The Trolls. We will be returning in
mid-June to make ascents of these fantastic rock buttresses, including
the Middle Troll - III 5.8.
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On our second day we
made a climb and ski descent of the steepest couloir of the week, the
1,500' tall, 50 degree angled Crown Jewel Couloir. Deep snow made for a strenuous climb and so we searched out easier to
access couloirs after this one.
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The east face of the Royal Tower is a 2,000' high granite massif with
amazing rock and mixed climbing potential. We saw dozens of routes that
were in great ice condition during our time on the Pika, and with all
of the climbers in the range searching for minimal ice on the Ruth
Glacier, it seems that the potential here for new mixed routes is huge.
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Mid-way through our trip, we did a huge journey across four glacier
systems which included this climb of the 1,600' southeast couloir on
Your Highness and concluded with a ski descent of the north facing
glaciers that dump into the grand Kahiltna Glacier.
With more than 13 miles of skiing and 4k of climbing, we
slept in the next morning after this big adventure.
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Chewi and Arnold
making an exposed traverse across the southern flanks of Your Highness
(8,110'), with the southern edge of the Alaska Range and the town of
Talkeetna, approx. 30 miles in the distance.
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Arnold
at the downward conclusion of our ski descent through two icefalls,
across three peaks and about half-way through our 13 mile journey.
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The slow uphill grind
up the Pika Glacier and back to our camp, just below the furthest
sunlit arete in the distance- only 5 miles to go
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Although it was cold in the morning hours (0F), we stayed relatively
warm and sheltered inside of our kitchen tent and along with fresh
coffee, we enjoyed breakfasts of bacon/cheese omelets and grilled
bagels with cream cheese.
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Evening meals were
a mix of grilled burritos, pasta with sauces and on this evening,
Arnold's favorite of sausage and onions grilled to perfection and
served over penne pasta. Freeze-dried meals are for those who
can't cook or have to carry huge packs and on this 'plane-camping"
trip, we had no problem eating well in the wilds of
Alaska.
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Our minimum-impact
campsite on the Pika Glacier was just 100' from where we were dropped
off, and we saw only two planes for our entire week in the peaks.
Some of our favorite north-facing powder filled ski slopes
are in the background. The left-hand rock ridge is the
Munchkin.
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Chewi setting the track
up to Munchkin Col in the afternoon light. Blue skies were
the weather pattern for almost our entire trip. A foot of new
powder fell on our second night and by noon the next day, the sun
returned and it was sunburn that created one of the bigger risks of our
adventure.
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The
Middle Troll covered in
winter snow. The middle rock buttress is an excellent III 5.8
route.
Eli
Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides is returning to the Pika Glacier in June
of 2009 for a week-long alpine rock climbing trip. Click here
for more details of this upcoming Alaskan adventure which is open to
experienced rock climbers who are comfortable on multi-pitch routes up
to low 5.8 in difficulty.
Call with questions or to book your next backcountry skiing or
rock climbing trip:
970.744.4898 or
contact us at:
ClimbingLife
Guides is an authorized mountain guide service in Denali National Park and Preserve.
www.climbinglife.com
©
ClimbingLife Guides, 2009 All Rights Reserved
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