Last Thoughts on the Dirtbag

Luke's new book American Climber is loaded with epic climbing stories and adventures. It contains two underlying themes: a compelling narrative of my tumultuous journey to climbing that ultimately saved Mehall's life, and a detailed look at the American dirtbag climbing culture, which has never truly been examined in a memoir.

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Douglas Tompkins: Wild Legacy

Douglas Tompkins was a world-renowned adventurer, entrepreneur, and conservationist. Co-founder of The North Face and Esprit, Doug spent the first half of his life building successful, global brands, while simultaneously adventuring around the world, completing first descents of the world’s toughest rivers. In 1968 Doug embarked on a trip to Chile, driving with friends from California to the tip of Patagonia. Documented in the film Mountain of Storms, the trip solidified Doug’s place as rock climbing legend. In the early 1990s, Doug sold his part of Esprit and moved down to Chile to do conservation work full time with his wife, Kristine McDivitt Tompkins, the former CEO of Patagonia, Inc. Together, over the last 25 years, Doug and Kris have protected 2.2 million acres, more land than any other individuals. The foundations under the Tompkins Conservation umbrella, along with their partners, have created five national parks in Chile and Argentina and are in the process of creating five more. A Wild Legacy tells the story of Doug’s incredible life, his lasting impact on the wild landscapes of Patagonia, and Kris and the Tompkins Conservation team’s efforts to continue his audacious mission. Doug was tragically killed in a kayaking accident on Lago General Carrera, north of Patagonia Park, on December 8th, 2015. “If anything can save the world, I’d put my money on beauty” – Douglas Tompkins. The work goes on at tompkinsconservation.org.

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Molly Mitchell Empowered

Featuring Molly Mitchell's new routes, "All Hell Breaks Moose, 5.13 R" and "Dangerous Woman, 5.12 S" Get to know the face behind the name of this up and coming, brave trad climber!

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Fine Jade Steph Davis

FINE JADE | CASTLE VALLEY, MOAB (UTAH, USA) "Follow us on the trip of a lifetime to crack country." Climbers: Caro North Steph Davis

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Chris Sharma Mont Rebei Project

I had an amazing spring season back on my multi pitch project in Mont Rebei with my good friend Kleman Becan. This is one of the most impressive lines I've ever put up and its gonna be amazing when it finally goes!"

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Sonnie Trotter Totem Pole

In January of 2009, after a 9-month battle (and 30 years since the First Aid Ascent) 'The Ewbank Route' on the iconic Totem Pole saw all 4 of its original pitches climbed free by two local talents, Doug McConnel, and Dean Rollins. 
The Tasmanian classic went at 27 (or 5.12d in Yosemite terms), and Planet Mountain wrote: "the two climbers were the first to point out that their style could be greatly improved upon as they freed the individual pitches over separate days, and pitches 2 and 3 were separated by a hanging belay. Those aspiring to climb the line in a single push should be aware that the route takes fiddly gear, is run-out, and solid for the grade. Any takers?"
Well as it turns out, this description is exactly what appealed to our athlete's Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope. Both climbers are well known for seeking out beautiful and spicy lines around the world and "The Tote" (as it's often called) would be no exception. Watch, as these two climbers explore this rugged peninsula and Trotter takes down the nearly 200-foot pencil like pillar via the Ewbank Route, 5.13b R.

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Ecuador Climbing Festival

Monodedo Rockfest, is the first rock climbing festival from Ecuador. Since 2013, this event gather all the climbing community and show them the real experience of climbing in Ecuador.Further information in the web: www.monodedoecuador.com Vive La Aventura de Escalar en Ecuador.

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Keeping the Faith

Black Diamond Ambassador Ofer Blutrich learned to climb in Israel, a country with many crags that are off-limits to climbing. Recently, he became the first Israeli to climb 5.14c, with his send of Mind Control. This is how he does it.

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First Ley

Mateusz Haladaj sent his second 9a+ route in Margalef, Spain #RiseUp

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Shanti-Pack Finding Wide

Join La Sportiva ambassador Pamela Shanti Pack as she makes the first ascent of her newest off-width crack climb in the Moab desert called "Am I Evil?", a four-pitch combination of steeply overhanging technical test-piece and blue-collar burl.

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Alex Honnold in Ireland

The full, unedited footage of Alex Honnold free soloing the 200ft route Complete Scream, rated Ed6b at Fair Head, Northern Ireland. EpicTV and Climbing Daily were there capturing this awesome climb.

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Dave MacLeod Magic Wood 8c

Dave MacLeod was first inspired to visit Magic Wood in 2012 after watching footage of Tyler Landman doing the second ascent of Practice of the Wild. At Font 8c it is one the hardest boulder problems in the world and on Dave’s first visit it proved to be just beyond him. Following a determined and focused preparation Dave returned in 2016 to have another crack at ‘Chris Sharma’s hardest boulder problem’....

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Ben Rueck Pure Pressure

"I don't need no stinkin' bolts!" Adidas Outdoor athlete Ben Rueck decides to get his trad on for a vicious desert finger crack, and discovers what it means to get maxed.

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Riders on the Storm Patagonia

On February 6th, Ines Papert and Mayan Smith-Gobat summited Torres Central, in Torres del Paine National Park (Chile) via the extremely difficult east face. 25 years after the first ascent of this historic route, this was only the fifth known successful ascent of ‘Riders on the Storm.’ This region is famous for its unstable weather conditions, making it a very challenging place to climb. ‘Riders on the Storm’ was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold, Peter Dittrich and Norbert Bätz in January 1991 during 15 days of climbing over a five-week period. This stunning line on the sheer 1300m east face of Torres Central line went at 7c, A3. The climbing is very varied and demanding, ranging from delicate and runout face climbing to wide cracks and roofs, which were often entirely iced up.

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The Fledglings

What happens when The North Face climbers Cedar Wright and Matt Segal become absolute bumbling beginners at an obscure and adventurous air sport called paragliding? The Answer: Hilarity ensues. Follow Matt and Cedar on a perilous, beautiful, light hearted, sometimes intense journey to fly off of the highest peak in Mexico with less than a year of experience. Just because you are a beginner doesn’t mean you can’t dream big.

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Oliana, Good Times!

It's been a great winter season climbing with Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Kleman Becan and Matty Hong at one of my favorite spots, Oliana.

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