In this 1970 “CBS Evening News” report, climbers Dean Caldwell and Warren Harding make history as the first to climb El Capitan’s “Wall of Early Morning Light.” Now known as “Dawn Wall,” it's the same cliff face that Kevin Jorgeson and Tommy Caldwell free-climbed in an equally historic feat. While both had their challenges, the 1970 climb would prove to be more controversial thanks to a spat between the climbers and the National Park Service.
On January 14, 2015, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson made the first free ascent of The Dawn Wall on Yosemite's El Capitan. Watch Tommy climb pitch 15 (5.14c) in this first footage released by the film crew on the wall. “The crux holds of pitch 15 are some of the smallest and sharpest holds I have ever attempted to hold onto,” Tommy wrote on his Facebook page. Four unique camera angles reveal those minuscule holds and the 1,300 feet of exposure under Tommy’s precarious foot placements. While multiple pitches of extremely difficult climbing remained above, the completion of pitch 15 was considered the last major hurdle to the eventual success of this seven-year project. Note: Pitch 15 was originally rated 5.14d, but was downgraded slightly after the completion of the route.
Long considered impossible, coveted by many and attempted by a few, the Fitz Traverse has fueled the imaginations of climbers in Patagonia for decades. Tracing the iconic skyline of Cerro Fitz Roy and its six satellite peaks, it spans four miles and 13,000 feet across snow and ice-covered rock, with epic route finding and endless rapelling. Seizing their chance during a rare extended weather window, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold went big. The pair completed the first ascent in a five-day push during February 2014.
Tommy Caldwell has spent six years working to free climb The Dawn Wall, on the 3,000 foot El Capitan, in Yosemite National Park, CA. Along with his partner, Kevin Jorgeson, Caldwell is currently half way up the wall, hoping to succeed on the hardest big wall free climb in the world. In this bonus clip from the new film Valley Uprising, Tommy describes his Dawn Wall obsession, and the parallels with one of Yosemite's pioneers, Warren Harding, who first aid climbed the route in 1970.
Kevin Jorgeson leads Pitch 15 (5.14+), Free Dawn Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite National Park. The crux comes at 7:30 in the video. Watch in HD for best viewing.
Tommy Caldwell climbs the four hardest routes at the Monastery nearby Estes Park, Colorado before heading to Yosemite for another Dawn Wall attempt with Kevin Jorgenson. All other climbers are drunks and stoners according to the master of the big stone aka Mr. Wheaties.
It's no surprise to me that ancient Aboriginals who first inhabited the Grampians believed that the surreal landscapes and animated structures of sandstone were designed by a creator named Bunjil in a "dream-state". I have searched the planet for the last sixteen years in hopes of discovering the type of stone and setting which can only be conjured through intense imagination, or extremely vivid dreaming. In 2011, I discovered it. Otherworldly is an understatement, and the whole place reminds me of Pangea. There is something incredibly hard to digest about the whole scene; it's a regular sensation to wonder if everything you experience out in the bush is actually happening, or if you are about to wake up in your bed on the other side of the planet... desperately trying to remember what just happened...if that electric blue sandstone with spider web quartz and lightning bolt-like rails were actually real... if the sun really looked like it was setting into an ocean of fire...and if the birds you heard actually exist. D.G.
On Thursday November 20th, Jimmy Webb and friends (Nalle, Dave, Beau) headed to Thunder Ridge in the South Platte to try Daniel Woods' Defying Gravity V15.
In early 2014, Calum Muskett and Dave McLeod set out for Patagonia to repeat David Lama's free Compressor Route on Cerro Torre. With pitches up to 8a and bold, committing climbing high on the mountain, it is probably one of the hardest alpine climbs in the world. But Patagonia is famous for its foul weather and month-long storms. Would two of Britain's best climbers even get to see the mountain, let alone try one of the hardest, most famous and controversial climbs in the world? Find out more about the expedition at rab.uk.com/patagonia2014/
BD Athlete Brittany Griffith does some climbing and bolting in Lebanon's Tannourine
Ramon Julian makes a rare repeat of Chris Sharma's route: Power Invertor, a stout 15a (9a+) in Oliana, Spain.
Four of the world’s most talented skiers, snow, darkness and light. See how color and light mark the adventure trails of Pep Fujas, Chris Benchetler, Eric Hjorleifson and Daron Rahlves. AFTERGLOW is one of those moments. It’s a look at some of the world’s most talented skiers and their journey into darkness and light. From the wide expanse of day, darkness waits to fall across the brilliant snow. Stillness and solitude prevail until color and light alter the landscape of night into something other. Transforming all it touches and elevating the ordinary into the extraordinary.
Here a is small video edited from the shots, which did not find place in the final movie Change. Adam Ondra on-sights Nordic Flower (established as 9a, today more like 8c/+) and Muy Verdes 8c/+ in Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway.
A Short film Bala Bala tells a story about Klemen's contribution to Slovenian climbing scene through developing climbing area called Osp, especially its most famous crag, where the hardest rock climbing routes are found, called "Pajkova streha", which means Spider's roof. In the movie, you can also see the appearance of a young, talented Slovenian climber of the new generation Domen Škofic, who sent Klemen's project Water World, and also one of the most legendary Slovenian female climbers in history, Martina Čufar Potard, a successful competition and rock climber.