Sonnie Trotter establishing a stunning new route called Castles in the Sky, a five pitch 5.14 on Castle Mountain near Banff, Alberta
Rab® Athlete Scott Bennett and Brad Gobright chase the speed record on Eldorado Canyon's most iconic route, "The Naked Edge" (5.11). With multiple pitches of 5.11 and standing at over 600' tall, this video was shot during an actual speed attempt in which Scott and Brad employ unique tactics to dispense with this classic route and it's complicated descent in less than 30 minutes.
Fresh from the success of completing La Rambla, Jonathan Siegrist moves onto a new challenge: Power Inverter. Nestled in amongst the stunning scenery of Oliana in Catalonia, Spain, Jonathan finds himself getting a bit introspective in the quest to complete one of his hardest projects yet.
A story of two expeditions to two mountains, one in Argentina the other in Chile which despite being a decade apart, had one man common during both trips was Don Whillans, an icon of British climbing in the 50s and 60s whose routes still are test pieces today and ‘one-liners’ most recognized.
In November 2015, David Lama and Conrad Anker became the first expedition ever to reach the headwall of Lunag Ri, a 6907 meters high mountain located at the border of Nepal and Tibet.
Mayan Smith-Gobat and Ben Rueck climbing the route "Welcome to Barbados" in the Grampians National Park in Victoria, Australia. Check out this beautiful and unique place with a great route to climb. Inspired by local Malcom "HB" Matheson it is an adventure that Mayan was looking to experience for a long time.
Josh Wharton talks about his training strategy: like using mixed climbing when he's exhausted as technical and psychological training for his big-mountain objectives.
Alex Honnold is the most accomplished free climber in the world. Angola is a southwest African country that recently emerged from 27 years of bloody civil war. What brings together these strange bedfellows you ask? Some of the most epic unclimbed rocks in the world, and a community needing help to diffuse the hidden land mines leftover from the conflict. (Plus a shadowy local hotel magnate, but we'll get into that later). This is Alex Honnold in Angola, for one of the most unique adventures of his storied climbing career this far.
Just outside the town of Mouriès, France, in the small Alpilles Mountains, sits a legendary iconic route from 1986 called, "Magie Blanche" (White Magic). This twenty-meter-high dead-vertical wall of 8b+ (5.14a) has little in common with the routes typically scaled by today's sport climbers. Here is the story of a truly unique encounter! More infos about the climb and the interveiw of Chris Sharma on: petzl.com/en/Sport/video/Chris-Sharma-travels-back-to-the-future-in-Mouries--France?l=INT#.VmASVb-Fnlc
WARNING - contains strong language! 'Why Echoes, it's a good question... It came from one of my first essays, also called echoes. This essay was an echo into my past life, a reverberation to and from the life I had made for myself. (...) Echoes of a parallel life, of the life we were expected, or trained to live, but there, just on the periphery, just out of reach, is another life – a life – a much better life – the life we all hope to live, but not many do ... It's there, just there – bouncing, echoing around in everyone's head, but it is just that, an echo, a parallel never to be reached or experienced...' Nick Bullock.
Opposites attract. There isn’t a more appropriate statement to describe the unlikely yet formidable climbing partnership that is Nick Bullock and Tim Neill. They met on the mountains of Scotland in winter, and despite walking their own paths in the mountaineering world they are both drawn inexorably back there each winter. The fickle conditions that define Scottish winter climbing frequently lead to frustration, but the prospect of discovering an obscure gem presents an irresistible allure to them both.
Eddie Bauer athlete and renowned climbing photographer Ben Ditto ticks the first ascent of High Times (5.13b), a steep, northeast-facing line on Drug Dome in Tuolumne Meadows. A longtime Yosemite local, Ditto ticked his initial first ascent on one of climbing’s holiest grounds as a means of finding motivation again after a period of social-media driven “living the dream” malaise. Owen Bissell captures the pitch-by-pitch essence of the ten-day, hand-drilled, four-pitch, free climbing rebirth in this stunning edit from the Sierra high ground.
Desert Gold, one of the most classic roof cracks in the desert, lies just north of Black Velvet Canyon in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Las Vegas, Nevada. After a 5.8 approach pitch, the crux pitch follows an overhanging finger crack which widens from tips through all finger crack sizes to thin hands to reach the roof. The roof crack also progressively widens from hands to cupped hands toward the lip. The roof itself was first free-climbed by Paul Van Betten in 1984, after aiding the finger crack. He later returned and led the crack leading to the roof free in 1987. Yet, Stefan Glowacz was the first to free climb the entire crux pitch of Desert Gold as one, also in 1987, and receives credit for the first integral ascent. The golden Aztec sandstone crack is atypical of the Red Rock style patina face climbing and this route is a must-do for all crack aficionados.