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The Crypt is a 30 meter curtain of ice sitting on the south slopes of Otis Peak above the Loch Vale and across from the north face of Thatchtop Mountain. This is a relatively short climb for the hike, but as this flow is almost 100 ft. wide, there are enough leading and top-roping options available of all difficulties to make for a full day of ice and mixed climbing.
crypt ice
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The Crypt
FA:
Unknown
Type:
Pure ice route
Difficulty:
WI4
Length:
25 meters
Season:
December through March
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Late
Dec.' 07, Heidi on the sharp end.
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Warning: Falling rock and ice
can be a major concern when temperatures exceed freezing.
Being south-facing, this
route is particularly susceptible to warmer temperatures and rapid
melting and would best be avoided under these conditions.
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Description
The
Crypt is a decent curtain of ice when "IN"
shape and despite
it's relatively accessible yet off the beaten track location,
it is one
of the least visited ice flows in Rocky Mountain National
Park.
Unfortunately some of the charm of this location is it's
potential for sunny warmth and these conditions work against the
consistent formation of this classic pure ice route.
So
to catch this "beast" in shape is to savor a spectacular curtain
of ice
and with some motivation and good conditions, there can easily
be a
half-dozen variations as well on any of the
nearby ice-filled gullys that can
make for more than a full day in this welcoming
location.
The views looking across
the Loch Vale and across from the imposing north face of
Thatchtop
Mountain is one to savor, especially while you're sitting in the
sun..
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The trail above that's outlined in blue is a great short-cut
for reaching everything in that direction.
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Location
This ice
route is reached via the Glacier Gorge trailhead and
the climb sits
directly above the Loch in the Loch Vale (watch out for the
monster).
The normal "fire-trail" approach to the Loch is
ideal as it
shaves almost a mile off of the otherwise
normal approach.
It is
approx. 2.5 miles from the trailhead to the base of the
route with the
short-cut.
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Avalanche Danger
When
we are in the brunt of winter and avalanche danger makes the high
country too dangerous for travel in steep terrain, this can be one of
the safer locations due to the minimal snow pack which typically sits
above this climb.
However, when
covered with a weak snowpack, there is the potential for avalanche
danger in this location and in the spring, heat related avalanches
could be a major concern.
This route sits at the bottom of a steep and large
gully, so any time Avalanche Danger is rated CONSIDERABLE or higher, this could
be a bad location for a day of cragging.
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Rescue
services will take a while here and contacting "911" resources could be
the crux of an adventure gone bad. Winter conditions can
quickly kill
an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or
broken. Emergency and ivy gear should be considered along
with
communications equipment in any alpine winter back country
adventure.
Tell a responsible
person where you are going and when you plan to
return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact
the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues
in Rocky Mountain
National Park.
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Route Information
P1-
30m up a fat but immediately steep WI- 4+ curtain to
the slung trees above. Mixed and
harder curtain variations exist on either side of the route which
typically climbs the center of the curtain.
Descent
Rappel
or lower with one rope for 25m down the route to the
base. Bring
slings for the trees on top in case they are well aged.
Protection
A
standard ice rack consisting of primarily long screws should be adequate for
this
route.
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