The nearby sounds of a screaming eagle inspired the route name and you might be screaming from effort on this pumpy, Lumpy "sport-route". Sharp and interestingly shaped holds on a steep wall make this one a real classic.
Screamin' Eagles 5.12b/c
Bookmark Formation, Lumpy Ridge
First Ascent: Eli Helmuth, May 2006.
The east face of the Bookmark Pinnacle contains the routes Wigglin' and Screamin'. Here Lynn Hill cranks on Wigglin' while Screamin' is the route marked in green. Bolts on the wall are marked in red.
Description:
Screamin' Eagles was established top-down when it was cleaned and bolted and then redpointed after successive attempts on lead.
The continuously hard movements on this route off of decent but well spaced handholds make this a modern "test-piece" and with enough bolts to make it relatively safe, one is able to enjoy the unique handholds and airy feeling that this climb contains.
Cranking through the initial crux sequence on the FA
Approach:
From the Lumpy Ridge parking lot, follow the new trail west over the small pass then down to the original parking lot which has been replanted and for a total of 2 miles total to the turn-off which is well signed for the Book, Bookend, and Bookmark formations up the hill.
After about 100 yards up the hill, another trail junction will be encountered, right to the Book and left to the Bookmark, Left Book and Bookend. Take the RIGHT turn here and continue up to the base of the cliff which is the Tombstone. Stay left here and traverse under the route Osirus (7) and then past King Tut (11b) before traversing down and across a slab at the end to reach the grotto which seperates the Boomark Pinnacle from the cliff behind. Establish the belayer around to the left off of a cam anchor (larger ones work well here).
Pitch 1
The initial move off of the ledge is cranky and small cams can supplement the first bolt if the reach is too far. A left-hand undercling can help enable the long reach to the first big "jug" of the route from which the second bolt can be clipped.
Pulling through the second crux section
The line follows side pulls and pinches to eventually some sharp pebble pulling at the final bolt where it moves left into the wide crack system before reaching the "half-way ledge".
At the final crux on the FA
To keep the climbing at the grade and well protected, step right on the ledge and climb the final slab which is tenuous and one of the cruxes of the route (12b) but well bolted so as to hopefully prevent any ankle twisting type falls. On the first ascent, the leader went left onto the south face for the final 30' to the anchor which was unprotected (R) for the entire way (5.7).
Descent
Two bolts with steel chains exist at the top of this pitch and a lower-off can be easily set-up to reach the safe ground inside the grotto. 25 meters from top to bottom.
Gear Beta:
Quick draws for 7 bolts plus the anchor plus a #1 or #.75 camalot is helpful for protecting the crack at the half-way ledge.
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