Give yourself time to do the entire route, as the last two pitches are not to be missed. One of the most classic 5.8 routes at Lumpy Ridge and lots of climbing in 3 long pitches.
Melvin's Wheel II 5.8+
Bookmark Formation, Lumpy Ridge
First Ascent: Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose, 1965.
The classic line of Melvin's Wheel, II 5.8 on the Bookmark Formation
Description:
Melvin's Wheel is one of the better 5.8's at Lumpy Ridge and with a variety of cruxes on this 500' route, the leader will stay engaged while on the sharp end of the rope. It is given an 8+ in many guide books but seems on par at 5.8 compared to similar Yosemite and JT style routes. The route overall protects well for the leader so not a bad route on which to "push the grade".
Typically done as a 3-4 pitch route to the top of the Bookmark, or often to the top of just the first 1.5 pitches where a slung horn allows for an easy escape and a bolted anchor below is the second of three rappels to retreat from this height.
This route offers a variety of climbing styles from laybacking to straight-in hand jams, to small overhang's, thin finger cracks and a steep chimney. This route has it all and all of the pitches are highly recommended.
Approach:
From the Lumpy Ridge parking lot, follow the new trail west over the small pass then down to the original parking lot which has been replanted and for a total of 2 miles total to the turn-off which is well signed for the Book, Bookend, and Bookmark formations up the hill.
After about 100 yards up the hill, another trail junction will be encountered, right to the Book and left to the Bookmark, Left Book and Bookend. Take the left turn here and continue up to the base of the cliff which is the Bookmark. At the base, head left and uphill 40' around the base of the Bookmark to the base of the route which is flat and sandy below many flared cracks with an obvious left-facing dihedral above a large, dead tree. Just right of the route base is a block filled chimney system which can be 3rd classed to the upper ledge from which one can also rappel down on their descent of the first pitch and a half of Melvin's.
The first long pitch up to Library Ledge on the "37th Cog of Melvin's Wheel"
Pitch 1 - (5.8)
It helps to move your belayer up to the highest platform as this is best done as a long pitch (55m) to the comfy "Library Ledge". This flat ledge contains a bolted anchor that replaced the multi-slung, detached block just a few feet to the left of this anchor. Many parties elect to just climb the first pitch and then do two rappels down to the base or do the first 30m of the second pitch where the top of a horn contains numerous slings and rings.
By staying to the inside of the big dead tree at the start of the route and using longer runners on the first 15m of somewhat easier climbing, you can reduce your rope drag which will be appreciated at the upper crux of the route at 50m. The pro is excellent throughout this pitch with medium nuts and many cams of all sizes will fit this varying width crack system. The crux roof at 50m is best protected with a #3 camalot which should be the biggest piece necessary for this route.
The begining of the first crux section on the first "enduro pitch", which contains two 5.8 crux sections of excellent climbing in 60m.
Pitch 2 - (5.8)
Folks seem to either love or hate this pitch ( I really like it) and it is somewhat reminiscent of an easier version of George's Tree so a bit flaring on toe and finger jams which sew up well with nuts and smaller cams. The second half of the pitch contains very good chimney-style climbing although there are enough features on the left wall and the inside that protection, finger jams and fin holds are ample and make it easier than say the Chimney Section of the Casual Route on the Diamond or the West Chimney on the Twin Owls which are both rated easier but feel grades harder than this one.
At the 50m mark, there is a decent ledge on the left of the now widening and easier chimney that is the top of the 2nd or 3rd pitch on Fantasy Ridge. Using the cracks above the ledge for protection (small up to a .75 camalot) There is a convenient rope "bucket" contained on this ledge which sits on the left edge of this side of the Bookmark.
The beginning of the second pitch finger and hand crack
The crux section of the second pitch with the chimney looming above
Pitch 3 - (5.8)
The third pitch takes one back right from the belay stance into the flaring chimney system which is easily stemmed and follows the path of least resistance for 40'. From a flat ledge inside the chimney there is a large flake which offers a short bouldering crux ( 5.8) around it and then up the juggy face above for 20' to the summit.
The alternative finish is via the 3rd pitch of Fantasy Ridge which at solid 5.9 for 20' is a bit harder than Melvin's but offers a fun, pumpy finish to this already classic route.
The third (5.9) finishing pitch to Fantasy Ridge
Descent
The easiest descent from the summit is to the northwest which deposits one after two 30m rappels at the base of White Whale. The first anchor is a two-bolt w/chain on the edge of the fin on the NW corner of the Bookmark and the second anchor is a slung chockstone which is about 27 meters below the bolt anchor. You may want to bring your approach shoes but it is only a 3 minute walk down a trail to the base of the route.
Some parties due to weather, etc. choose to climb to just the top of just the first 1.5 pitches where a slung horn allows for an easy escape and the bolted anchor on Library Ledge is the second of three rappels to retreat from this height.
Gear Beta:
At least one #3 camalot is helpful on the crux section at the "roof "on P1 and the upper pitches require doubles of cams down to the smaller C3's. Plenty of shoulder-length runners, up to 15 for a 60 meter pitch and doubles in all cam sizes.
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