Pharoah's Child is one of the best single pitch 5.10 hand and finger cracks at Lumpy Ridge as it works it's way up a steep and unrelenting series of cracks which culminate on the ridge crest at a decent sized conifer. This is an overlooked classic that deserves more traffic than it receives.
Pharoah's Child 5.10a
Book Formation, Lumpy Ridge
First Ascent: Scott Kimball and Chip Salaun, 1979.
Looking down the Renaissance Wall grotto with the route Pharoah's Child in yellow
Description:
This route is typically done as a single-pitch, although it can be taken to the top of the book via less sustained and dirty climbing. It is one of the best hand and finger crack systems at Lumpy Ridge due to it's steep and sustained nature and excellent protection. This route contains interesting movement on featured granite on the edge of a steep-sided and narrow grotto in the middle of the Book formation.
Due to the cruxy nature of the start of this pitch, it is most ideal to traverse in from the left on the large ledge system which defines the start of the difficulties of this route and with a well-anchored belayer here, step off the ledge into sustained stemmings, side-pulls, and jams. A well-slung tree anchor is approx. 90' above the base of the route and provides a solid lower-off point although it's not a bad idea to back-up the tree with some additional protection.
The Rennaissance gully with the anchor tree on Pharoah's Child at arrow
Approach:
Take the trail up to the Book formation and then around the left side of the Tombstone and past the base of Osirus to reach the Renaissance Gulley and the obvious anchor tree at the south end of the face with the obvious ledge just above the gully defines the start of the route,
Pitch 1
Stemming into the start of Pharaoh's Child
The sustained start of the pitch
Starting the lead from the ledge above the gully
Descent
This 90' route can be lowered-off, top-roped, or led through to the summit of the Book in two more pitches with a long walk-off or rappels down the Country Boy Wall would be easiest.
Gear Beta:
A standard Lumpy rack of double all camalots up to #2 with a single #3 camalot and many shoulder length and quick-draws.
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