This new addition to the Rennaissance Wall is one of the easier routes in this steep canyon at mid- 5.11, and with good gear, a bouldery crux, and a fixed anchor at 30 meters height; this is a great place to avoid the sun in the morning or bask in the sun on a chilly afternoon.

Consequences  5.11c

Book Formation, Lumpy Ridge

First Ascent: Eli Helmuth, 2006. 

      Looking up the Renaissance Wall grotto with the route Consequences in red

Description: 

This single all-traditional pitch route is a memorable "directissima" up a featured 100' wall of knobby granite in a steep-sided and narrow grotto in the middle of the Book formation.

Starting from the right side of a small ledge just above the boulder which chokes the canyon, climb past a series of diagonalling cracks that provide ample underclings and sharp edges for holds and just enough pod openings for adequate protection.  A bolted anchor approx. 95' above the base of the route provides a solid lower-off point.

The pitch initially protects with small wired stoppers, small cams, and with little exception, stays this way through all of the crux sections.  Luckily the rock is solid and the protection though small, is very solid and reassuring.

Approach: 

Take the trail up to the Book formation and then around the left side of the Tombstone and past the base of Osirus to reach the Renaissance Gulley and the anchor tree of Pharoah's Child (10a) is a good landmark for the location of Consequences.

Pitch 1

The undercling crux is a powerful little boulder problem and when the gear is clipped quick, not too bad of a move. 

Although cracks diagonalling left are available, the direct finish through this juggy and reachy section is worth doing.

                     A view from the base of the route with the gear used on the first ascent,

Descent

This 100' route can be lowered-off of, top-roped, or led through to the summit of the Book in two more pitches with a long walk-off or rappels down the Country Boy Wall would be easiest.

       Consequences is the right, blue route with Steppenwolf (9) the route in green further right

Gear Beta:

A standard Lumpy rack of double all camalots up to #2 with a single #3 camalot and many shoulder length and quick-draws.