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Craig Luebben killed in Cascades
A memorial for Craig Luebben was held at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, Colorado on Sunday, August 16th, 2009. <span class=""><span class=""><span class=""><span class=""><span class=""><span class="">craig</span></span></span> <span class=""><span class=""><span class="">luebben</span></span></span> obit</span></span></span>

 

August 11th, 2009

From the American Alpine Club:   Please join Craig’s family in celebrating his remarkable life. Feel free to pass this along to anyone you know who is a friend of Craig’s or his family. If you are interested in sending flowers for the day of the memorial, please have them delivered to the AAC address below (the auditorium)."

Dear Friends of Craig, Silvia and Giulia Luebben:
Please come to a Memorial and Celebration of Craig Luebben’s Life
To be held in the auditorium of the American Alpine Club
Sunday, August 16 @ 4:00 p.m. (doors will be open at 3:00 p.m.)
Beverages, sharing memories and music will follow a service
Thank you for your love and support of Craig and his family.

Location:
American Alpine Club
710 10th St. - Suite 100
Golden, CO 80401 USA
A Luebben Family Fund benefit is being established and donations will be greatly appreciated.

 

August 10th, 2009

Craig Luebben of Fort Collins and Golden, Colorado died on August 9th while climbing on Mount Torment in the Cascade Range of Washington.  He was crossing a moat between glacier and rock face when the ice below him collapsed and he suffered fatal trauma in the ensuing fall.

According to Mark Gunlogson, manager of Mountain Madness and employer of Craig's climbing partner at the time, Willie Benegas; Willie reported "There was no warning".

"It's one of those things, a hazard climbers confront in the North Cascades," said Gunlogson. "These were two incredibly experienced climbers."

Kelly Bush, the district ranger with North Cascades National Park Search and Rescue, said that the two climbers had crossed the upper part of the Taboo Glacier, with Luebben leading.  Benegas reported that a section of the glacier beneath Luebben collapsed, causing a fall of about 40 feet into the glacial moat in what is a remote mountain location in the center of this vast mountain range.

Craig was reported to be alive after Benegas was able to descend to him, move Craig to a ledge, and administer first aid before getting out a call to 911 for rescue. Craig died before rescuers could reach him,  said Bush, and she believed that neither climber did anything wrong in their ascent. "This kind of thing is inherent in mountaineering," she said. "These men were highly skilled, on top of their game, and some of the elite of mountain climbing.

To make a donation to the Craig Luebben Memorial Fund (for support of his daughter Giulia's education), please go here.

Memories from friends, acquaintances, and fans of Craig Luebben's are pouring into Mountain Project here.

More specific accident information from Willie and contact information for the Luebben family is available at the AMGA website here.

An article on the accident and Craig is in Climbing magazine online here.

The transcript of an interview done with Craig just a month ago with Mike at FRB is available here.

An article about his invention, the 'Big Bro' is available on Alpinist.com here.

Craig's climbing partner at the time of the accident, Himalayan alpinist Willie Benegas, suffered a leg injury in the ice fall, but he was able to assist Craig and contact authorities who flew the pair off the mountain on the same day of the accident which happened nearby Cascade Pass. Willie and Craig were training for an upcoming AMGA exam that they were both taking to achieve Alpine Guide certification.

guilia and craig luebben
Craig was a prolific climber, author, photographer, inventor, guide, adventurer, and a true climbing ambassador who made friends around the world with his open hearted and unassuming presence.

He will be sorely missed by his many friends around the world and his family, especially his young daughter Giulia Maria and wife Silvia who he climbed and skied with regularly.

Details will no doubt be forthcoming in how support from the community can be extended to Craig's young family.  Many gatherings will be planned to celebrate the life of this extraordinary individual.

Rest in peace Craig, and thanks for all of your gifts to our world community and for those of us whose lives you deeply touched with your inquisitive mind, abundant happiness, and selfless generosity.
 

 

 

 

 

mt. torment north cascades
 
The southeast face of Mt. Torment with the rapidly receding Taboo Glacier in the North Cascades, Washington.
 

 

forbidden peak north cascades
Craig Luebben guiding the East Ridge of Forbidden Peak on an AMGA alpine course in 2003.   A traverse of Forbidden Peak and Mt. Torment is a common AMGA exam route as part of the alpine guiding certification process.

 


From Craig's personal website:   www.craigluebben.com

In Craig's 30+ year climbing career, among his accomplishments:

  • First ascents on rock in Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, West Virginia, Canada, Mexico, Cuba, Puerto Rico, Cayman Brac, Mona Island, France, China, and Madagascar, up to 5.12d and grade V
  • First ascents on ice in Colorado, Italy and China, up to WI7 M8 and 200m
  • 24 ascents of the Diamond on Long's Peak, including the first one-day winter ascent
  • 7 ascents of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley
  • Many grade V and VI ascents in Yosemite, Zion, and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
  • First or second ascents of many hard offwidth cracks including onsight of Lucille (5.13a)
  • Free-solo linkup of Bridalveil Falls (WI5+ 120m) and Ames Ice Hose (WI5+ 150m)

Books
A Rock Climbers Guide to Greyrock (1991), Horsetooth Press  
Knots for Climbers (1995), The Globe Pequot Press
Advanced Rock Climbing (1997), co-authored with John Long, The Globe Pequot Press
How to Ice Climb (1999), The Globe Pequot Press
How to Rappel (2000), The Globe Pequot Press
Go Climb! (2001), North South Publications
Betty and the Silver Spider, an Introduction to Gym Climbing (2002), Sharp End Publishing
Betty in Anchorland, Rigging Good Rock Climbing Anchors (2003), Sharp End Publishing
On the Rocks, an Introduction to Rock Climbing (2004), The Mountaineers Books

Magazine Articles
Senior contributing editor, Climbing magazine.

Guiding
Board of Directors, American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), 1998 - 2004
Rock Guide Instructor, AMGA, 2001 - present
Certified Rock Guide, AMGA, 1991
Climbing Guide for Colorado Mountain School, Aspen Expeditions, San Juan Mountain Guides, Acadia Mountain Guides, Desert Ice Mountain Guides, Condor Adventures, Colorado State Outdoor Adventure Program, 1981 - present.

Education
Bachelor of Science in Mechanical Engineering, Colorado State University, 1984
51 graduate engineering credits, Colorado State University, 1985-1987
Performed graduate research on arc jet thrusters for space propulsion, 1985-1987
Invented BigBro tube chocks, 1984, currently distributed by Great Trango Holdings Inc.

Gear Testing
Tested and reviewed: ice tools, crampons, ice screws ice hooks, camming devices, alpine climbing, cragging packs, ropes, and helmets for Climbing and Rock & Ice magazines.

Events, Presentations, and Clinics
Organizer, Horsetooth Hang Bouldering Festival, 1991 - 2001
Current Slide Show: The Great Ice Walls of China and Cuba Rocks

craig luebben ice climbing

Craig Luebben leading the crux pitch (AI-5) of the Coleman  Headwall on Mt. Baker, North Cascades, Washington.  This was pitch 16 out of 20 on a sustained ice route that we climbed as a team on this 2005 AMGA training course with Craig, Kevin Mahoney, Kevin Lorda, and Eli Helmuth as Course Instructor.



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