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Peru
Cordillera Blanca Mountaineering
Oct. 4-24th, 2009
click on
photos to enlarge
We enjoyed a couple of
week-long mountaineering trips into
the Ishinca and Llanganuco Valley's of the Cordillera Blanca - 'White Range' of Peru in October of 2009 in this internationally popular area
for climbers and trekkers. Most climbers visit here
from June through August when the weather is considered most stable, although apparently May and September/early October were the best climbing months this
year which made for a great trip for us with almost no other climbers in
the peaks, and an unusually peaceful experience in South America's greatest
climbing range for beginner to expert alike.
Our
climbing team of Eli Helmuth, Lawrence Kovacs, Frank Nederhand, and CLG
apprentice guide Mike Arnold
enjoyed overall great conditions and weather in what is considered the
'off-season' for Peruvian mountain climbing. Eli will be
offering trips to the Cordillera Blanca again in September of 2010 with 10 and 15 day itineraries available to this great 'white range'.
Nevado
Pisco's south summit (18,871'-left) was our final and highest peak climb on this trip.
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Frank Nederhand
enjoying the spectacular views during our ascent of Nevado Pisco
(18,871') which sits between two of the Blanca's most rowdy peaks:
Huandoy 20,981 (background) and Chakraraju
(20,052').
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The Cafe Andino
in Huaraz along with the Meza Family Hostel behind it were the main
hangouts during our preparation and rest time in town. The
Andino is one of the most amazing coffee house/restaurants in the
world.
The
approach into the Ishinca Valley passes by these dramatic rock walls,
which include the Hatun
Ulloc spire.
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Our drive to the
trailhead for the Ishinca Valley was less than an hour from our lodging
in Huaraz and gave spectacular views of these pointy peaks on the
southwestern end of the Ocshapalca Massif.
The east face of Ranrapalca (20,217') shines in the morning
sun- viewed from our hostel in Huaraz it is an inspiring sight while
preparing for a trip into the heart of these steep-sided peaks.
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The bouldering and rock climbing in the Ishinca Valley is alone worth
the trip and we managed to find time on the approach hike for some
stretching out on these well featured granite erratics.
Basecamp at the head of the Ishinca Valley was reached in a casual
three hour walk from the trailhead and our first summit of the trip,
Urus East (17,781') sits just above our camp at 14,435'.
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Nevado Tocllaraju
shining in the afternoon sun as viewed from basecamp.
After an initial summit of Urus, I gave our team the option of a climb
of the more moderate peak, Ishinca (18,142') or the more formidable
Tocllaraju (19,790') and being an ambitious crew,
the latter was chosen. After a night at high camp at 16,076',
we climbed to above 18,372' in the early morning hours before being
turned back by the acute AMS being experienced by half of our team
members, which left them too disabled to continue upward.
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Frank and Mike high on the glaciated slopes of Urus East with the Palcaraju
Glacier tumbling down into the morainal lakes below.
A video compilation of our time in the Cordillera Blanca, 2010.
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We
unroped for the scrambling section through penitente fields and 3rd
class rock to the summit of Urus East.
The crew scrambling down 3rd class slabs after our summit of Urus East
in the Ishinca Valley.
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Basecamp in the Ishinca Valley was peaceful as we were the only
climbers in the area in a valley that can see more than 60 climbers at
a time during the peak season of June- August. Our strategy
of climbing in the 'off-season' paid off as we experienced only minimal
moisture during the majority of our trip and the few afternoon 'spring
storms' were benign and did not affect any of our climbing
plans for our first three climbing objectives: East Urus, Tocllaraju, and Pisco.
Joaquin Vargas; high-altitude porter of more than 35 years (
118 times on Huascaran- 22,204') and our cook and support crew for the
entire trip. Here he makes pancakes on one of our rest days
in basecamp in the Ishinca Valley. I have worked with Joaquin
for more than 11 years and he is one of the best of the best at his
work and a delightful person to spend time with in the high mountains.
The
crew taking a break in the early morning hours on Tocllaraju with the
massive Nevado Copa (20,302') in the distance.
A close-up of a large crevasse on Tocllaraju that we skirted around on
our summit attempt.
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On our rest day, we hiked the 10 minutes above camp to climb on the
excellent bolted rock route on this granite crag of about 45m in
height. The one established route on this cliff is a mostly
crack route in the 10+ range that we top-roped laps on for a few hours
of 'rest'.
Ranrapalca (20,216) sits on the south side of the Ishinca Valley and
contains some of the harder routes in this climber-friendly 'Quebrada' of the
Cordillera Blanca.
Another view of Tocllaraju from the crag that we did roped climbing on
during our rest day.
Lawrence
and Mike at 2am, getting ready for an ascent of
Tocllaraju from our high camp at approx. 16,100' below the glacier on
this steep sided peak.
 The porter that we hired to help bring our camping and extra
climbing gear down from our high camp with about
about 90#
in his customized aluminum framed carrier.
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Hiking
out of the Ishinca Valley after a week in alpine paradise.
Eli checking out the moves on another unclimbed boulder problem in the
Ishinca Valley whilst on the hike out.
Our burro train managed by a licensed Arriero on the hike-out
of the Ishinca Valley.
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The Arriero's pack their burros for the hike out of the Ishinca Valley.
Another view of the dramatic Hatun
Ulloc spire.
We transferred our duffel bags from burro to comfortable mini-van for
the one hour drive back to Huaraz where we had a couple of nights in
town before heading back to the peaks.
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Our
final week in the Cordillera Blanca was in the Llanganuco Valley,
pictured here looking down valley to the west with the Orgoncocha Lake
in the foreground.
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The first climbing
group we encountered in the peaks- a Peruvian guided group of
climbers from Scotland and Belgium skirt a gaping crevasse on
the way to the summit ridge of Pisco.
A sunrise view of the striking south face of Artesonraju (19,767')
which Eli successfully guided in 1996 and to the left, the sunlit
summit of Alpamayo (19,511') - one of the most coveted peaks in the
world.
The twin summited south face of Chacraraju (20,052') in the evening
light.
Two of the most impressive alpine faces in South America (L-R):
The Northeast face of South Huascaran (22,205') and the
Northeast face of North Huascaran (21,830') as seen from the
Chopicalqui (20,846') bascamp.
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Our support team of
Joaquin and Daniel at basecamp in the Llanganuco Valley.
High camp for Pisco situated just below the glacier at 16,240'.
Our kitchen cave at high camp on Pisco.
Our companions on Pisco descending from the summit as the afternoon clouds move
in over the mountain.
Eli finds another unclimbed boulder problem (V4) above the Pisco Hut at
approx. 15,420' with a cairn start and two jackets for padding.
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The
northeast face of the south summit of Huandoy (20,210') showing fresh
slab avalanche fractures on this steep, unsupported slope.
Eli
Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides is
returning to the Cordillera Blanca of Peru in September of 2010 for a
two week climbing trip that will include mountain climbs in the Ishinca
and Llanganuco Valleys.
Peru requires that all guides be
IFMGA licensed and Eli is one of the few spanish speaking and
Peru experienced U.S. based IFMGA guides that specializes in climbing trips in
the Andes of Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina (including Patagonia).
Please
call with questions or to book your next
backcountry skiing, mountaineering, or
rock climbing trip:
970.744.4898 or
contact us at:
guide@climbinglife.com
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ClimbingLife Guides, 2009 All Rights Reserved
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