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Hidden Falls

No longer hidden away in the Wild Basin valley of Rocky Mountain National Park, the Hidden Falls are the most accessible and popular ice climbing destination in the park.  The biggest risk might be the crowds on this one so weekdays and early/late in the day can be the best time to hit this classic.

 
 
Hidden Falls

 

Hidden Falls

 

 


FA:  Unknown

Style:  
Pure Ice with numerous nearby mixed routes

Difficulty:
WI 3 to 3+

Length:  25m

Season:  Dec. to March

hidden falls, ice climbing, colorado
Hidden Falls in typical mid-winter conditions.


hidden falls ice climbing colorado
Numerous variations exist on this single water ice flow.  The problem is often too many people and too little ice in this closest to the road location in RMNP.

Description 

 

Hidden Falls is a pretty piece of ice and with its easily accessible location on the south side of Longs Peak, it is the closest park ice to the Front Range south of Lyons. 

It is likely the most popular ice climb in Rocky Mountain National Park as well and for good reason as it is a steep and classic flow which rises to a narrow pillar of ice for a sustained pitch of climbing. 

The crowds that this route draws and it's limited size are the biggest drawbacks to this location and so timing can be the key to a safe and enjoyable experience on this WI 3 classic.

Weekdays, very early morning and late afternoon are often quiet and safe enough to be enjoyable.

 

hidden falls, ice climbing, colorado

Lars Lofgren on the left-hand mixed (M-3) variation at Hidden Falls.

 

 

Falling Ice Danger 

Warning:  Falling ice can be a major concern on this climb due to the shelf at 1/3 height which deflects falling ice and with multiple parties often on this small flow, this risk multiplies exponentially on busy days.  Being hit by these brick sized chunks could put you in the hospital or worse.  Safely positioning belayers and non-climbers behind big trees and far from the base of the route are good solutions.  The ice cave at the bottom-left of the route also provides safe haven for a belayer or two.

Avalanche Danger:  This is perhaps one of the few areas of RMNP that will almost never have avalanche danger.  The rating would need to be in the EXTREME range for there to much chance of danger from slab avalanches in this location.

 

Location 

This climb in Rocky Mountain National Park is one of the closest to Boulder and Denver when accessed via highway 7 from Lyons.  After turning west into the Wild Basin entrance of RMNP (payment booth closed in winter so access is free), drive to the end of the park road that is gated in winter approx. 1 mile east of it's terminus at the Copeland Falls trailhead.

Hike an additional mile on the trail which stays on the south side of the river and starts just before the last bridge that the road crosses near the final trailhead. 

The Wild Basin Lodge, located near the turn-off into the National Park has the nearest phone and amenities.  Cell service is non-existent in this valley. 

   


hidden falls ice climbing colorado
A Google Earth image of the hike on the closed road and trail to Hidden Falls in Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.

Click image to enlarge.



 

Rescue services will take a while here and contacting "911" resources could be the crux of an adventure gone bad.  Winter conditions can quickly kill an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or broken. 

Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along with communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry adventure.  Tell a responsible person where you are going and when you plan to return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues in Rocky Mountain National Park.

 

Route Beta

There is an easier and shorter flow just left of the main falls as well as a sometimes forming WI5 route 40' to the right that can both provide options for the beginner's and experts alike. 

There is a well-maintained two-bolt anchor in the cave to the left of the final pillar that offers a stopping point when the upper pillar is not yet formed and another top-rope point for routes on the left side of the main fall.
 

P1- 25m up a fat WI-3 flow to a 10m WI 3+ crux pillar to a flat top-out and multiple tree anchors.  When the route is 'hooked-out', the difficulty can lessen quite a bit.


hidden falls, ice climbing, colorado
Lars Lofgren getting some good sticks at the base of Hidden Falls.



Descent

 

Rappel off of slung tree's with one rope for 30m down the route to the base or (ideally) walk 75' east to a 3rd class icy gully which is also a fun beginner's variation to the top.  

There is a two bolt anchor with chains on the left side of the cave just below the final pillar that works well for a descent from the left-hand variations of the falls.

It is also easy enough to walk and scramble off about 100' to the east of the Falls down an ice filled WI-1 gully or walk further east to avoid all technical difficulties.

 

hidden falls ice climb colorado

The easier, 10m high flow to the left of Hidden Falls that is a great spot for beginners or warming-up.


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