No longer hidden away in the Wild Basin valley of Rocky Mountain National Park, the Hidden Falls are the most accessible and popular ice climbing destination in the park. The biggest risk might be the crowds on this one so weekdays and early/late in the day can be the best time to hit this classic.
FA: |
Unknown |
Type: |
Pure Ice |
Difficulty: |
WI 3+ with variations |
Length: |
1 pitch - 30 meters |
Season: |
late December to March |
Hidden Falls in early winter conditions, 2007
Warning: Falling ice can be a major concern on this climb due to the shelf at 1/3 height which deflects falling ice and with multiple parties on this small flow, this risk multiplies and being hit by these brick sized chunks could put you in the hospital or worse. Tucking belayers and non-climbers behind big trees and far from the base of the route are good solutions. The ice cave at the bottom-left of the route also provides safe haven for a belayer or two.
Description
Hidden Falls is a pretty piece of ice and with its easily accessible location on the south side of Longs Peak, it is the closest park ice to the Front Range south of Lyons. It is likely the most popular ice climb in Rocky Mountain National Park as well and for good reason as it is a steep and classic flow which rises to a narrow pillar of ice for a sustained pitch of climbing. The crowds that this route draws and it's limited size are the biggest drawbacks to this location and so timing can be the key to a safe and enjoyable experience on this WI 3 classic.
Hidden Falls in Dec. '07 conditions with the multiple variations of the main falls shown.
There is an easier and shorter flow just left of the main falls as well as a sometimes forming WI5 route 40' to the right that can both provide options for the beginner's and experts alike. There is a well-maintained two-bolt anchor in the cave to the left of the final pillar that offers a stopping point when the upper pillar is not yet formed and another top-rope point for routes on the left side of the main fall.
The smaller "Hidden Falls", just left of the main flow and a great spot for beginners
When we are in the brunt of winter and avalanche danger makes the high country too dangerous, this is pretty much the safest location for ice climbing due to the minimal snowpack in this area and the lack of non-forested, steep terrain in this part of the valley.
Location
The climb in Rocky Mountain National Park is one of the closest to Boulder and Denver when accessed via highway 7 from Lyons. After turning west into the Wild Basin entrance of RMNP (payment booth closed in winter so access if free), drive to the end of the park road which is closed in winter approx. 1 mile east of it's terminus at the Copeland Falls trailhead where in the summer there is a ranger station and camping. Hike an additional mile on the trail which stays on the south side of the river and starts just before the last bridge that the road crosses near the final trailhead.
The Wild Basin Lodge, located near the turn-off into the National Park has the nearest phone and amenities. Cell service is non-existent in this valley.
An overview satellite image from the north looking into the N. Fork of the St. Vrain River where the Hidden Falls hides out. There is an old cabin structure on top of the cliff, just a few hundred feet west of the falls
Rescue services will take a while here and contacting "911" resources could be the crux of an adventure gone bad. Winter conditions can quickly kill an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or broken. Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along with communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry adventure. Tell a responsible person where you are going and when you plan to return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues in Rocky Mountain National Park.
P1- 25m up a fat WI-3 flow to a 10m WI 3+ crux pillar to a flat top-out and multiple tree anchors
Lars Lofgren getting some sticks on the lower Hidden Falls
Descent
Rappel off of slung tree's with one rope for 30m down the route to the base or (ideally) walk 75' east to a 3rd class icy gully which is also a fun beginner's variation to the top. There is a two bolt anchor with chains on the left side of the cave just below the final pillar that works well for a descent from the left-hand variations of the falls.
Protection
A standard ice rack should be adequate for this route. In thinner conditions or doing the other variations may require rock protection.
The left-hand mixed (M3) variation of the HIdden Falls
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