|
The Squid is a seldom formed ice route that when IN- shape, provides a full 60 meter pitch of sustained WI-5 climbing on one of RMNP's best and most difficult ice routes.
squid
|
The Squid
FA:
Duncan Ferguson & Doug Snively, 1984.
Type:
Pure ice route or thin mixed
Difficulty:
WI4+ to 5+ or M7/8
Length:
58 meters
Season:
December through March
|
Late
Dec.' 08, Kristi Arend on the sharp end.
|
|
Warning: Falling rock and ice
can be a major hazard when temperatures exceed freezing.
Being south-facing, this
route is particularly susceptible to warmer temperatures and rapid
melting and would best be avoided under these conditions.
|
Description
The
Squid is spectacular when
"IN" shape and with its easily accessible
location, it could easily be the most popular "hard" ice climb
in Rocky
Mountain National Park.
Unfortunately some of the charm of this
location is it's potential for sunny warmth and hot sunny days work
against the consistent formation of this pure ice pump fest.
So
to catch this beast in shape is to savor a
spectacular pillar of ice.
There are a few other
challenging ice and mixed pitches that form on this south-facing wall
that can make for a full day in ideal conditions, the best
known is Calamari.
|
 |
Steve Johnson going
leashless on The Squid.
|
|
Avalanche Danger
When
we are in the brunt of winter and avalanche danger makes the high
country too dangerous for travel in steep terrain, this can be one of
the safer locations due to the minimal snow pack which typically sits
above this climb.
The approach is through a dense forest and talus
slope and the terrain above is rarely snow covered during the winter
months for any length of time, or in a manner that would be conducive
to creating avalanche danger.
That said, there are a few small but steep slopes that
can be avoided on the approach as they would likely hold the primary
the avi danger for this route.
|
 |
|
Location
This
climb, which lies in the heart of Rocky Mountain National
Park is one
of the closest to Estes Park with just
a twenty minute drive
from town to the parking lot at the Bear
Lake railhead which is open year-round.
Hike up the Tyndall Gorge towards Emerald Lake and
when the climb comes into clear view, just 100 yards before Emerald
Lake, take a turn up the hill and likely posthole a bit while climbing
up partially snow-covered talus to the
base of the route.
It is approx. 2 miles and 800' vertical elevation
gain from the parking lot to the base of the route. Allow 1
hr. for
the approach.
|
Eli climbing the Squid in thin late November conditions, 2008.
|
|
Rescue
services will take a while getting here and contacting "911" resources could be
the crux of an adventure gone bad. Winter conditions can
quickly kill
an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or
broken. Emergency and ivy gear should be considered along
with
communications equipment in any alpine winter back country
adventure.
Tell a responsible person where you are going and
when you plan to
return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact
the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues
in Rocky Mountain
National Park.
|
|
Route Information
P1-
60m up a steep pillar next to a right-facing
dihedral. There is a
break after 120' that offers a rest and a piton to clip before the
final pillar and ice covered rock to a rappel tree.
Descent
Rappel
off a large tree with two 60m ropes back down the route or walk-off to
the west.
Protection
A
standard ice rack with many short screws should be adequate for this
route. In thinner conditions, a few nuts, small cams, and
pitons may
be helpful. There is a fixed piton after the sustained pillar
and a .4
camalot fits perfectly under the overhang just left of the upper
pillar. A .5 camalot can also protect the last "snice"
section to the
tree anchor.
The route can be done as a mostly
rock climb following the right-facing dihedral just left of the ice
route. This crack requires many wide cams.
|
 |
