The Squid is a seldom formed ice route that when IN- shape, provides a full 60 meter pitch of sustained WI-5 climbing on one of RMNP's best and most difficult ice routes.
FA: |
Duncan Ferguson and Doug Snively, 1974 |
Type: |
Pure Ice |
Difficulty: |
WI 5 when formed thick |
Length: |
1 pitch - 55 meters |
Season: |
November to March (not consistent) |
The Squid in Nov. 2007 conditions
Warning: Falling rock and ice can are a major concern when temperatures exceed freezing and this route is particularly susceptible to warmer temperatures and rapid melting and would best be avoided under these circumstances.
A view of the Squid from nearby Emerald Lake
Description
The Squid is spectacular when "IN" shape and with it's easily accessible location it could easily be the most popular "hard" ice climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. Unfortunately some of the charm of this location is it's potential for sunny warmth and these conditions work against the consistent formation of this classic pure ice route.
Starting up the Squid in Dec. '07 conditions
So to catch this "beast" in shape is to savor a spectacular pillar of ice and with some motivation and good conditions, there are a few other challenging ice and mixed pitches that form on this south-facing wall that can make for a full day in this welcoming location.
When we are in the brunt of winter and avalanche danger makes the high country too dangerous for travel in steep terrain, this can be one of the safer locations due to the minimal snowpack which typically sits above this climb. The approach is through a dense forest and talus slope and the terrain above is rarely snow covered during the winter months for any length of time, or in a manner that would be conducive to creating avalanche danger.
A satellite image of the Tyndall Gorge with the location of the Squid
Location
This climb, which lies in the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park is one of the closest to Estes Park with just a twenty minute drive from town to the parking lot at the Bear Lake trailhead which is open all year-round. Hike up the Tyndall Gorge towards Emerald Lake and when the climb comes into clear view, just 100 yards from the Emerald Lake, take a turn up the hill and climb up snow-covered talus to the base of the route. It is approx. 2 miles and 1000' vertical elevation gain from the parking lot to the base of the route. Allow 1 hr. for the approach.
In the middle of the WI-5 crux of The Squid
Rescue services will take a while here and contacting "911" resources could be the crux of an adventure gone bad. Winter conditions can quickly kill an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or broken. Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along with communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry adventure. Tell a responsible person where you are going and when you plan to return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues in Rocky Mountain National Park.
P1- 60m up a steep pillar next to a right-facing dihedral. There is a break after 120' that offers a rest and a piton to clip before the final pillar and ice covered rock to a rappel tree.
A view of the Squid and Dragontail Couloirs from Dream Lake
Descent
Rappel with two ropes for 60m down the route to the base or walk-off to the west.
Protection
A standard ice rack with many short screws should be adequate for this route. In thinner conditions, a few nuts, small cams, and pitons may be helpful. There is a fixed piton after the sustained pillar and a .4 camalot fits perfectly under the overhang just left of the upper pillar. A .5 camalot can also protect the last "snice" section to the tree anchor.
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