"Organ Pipes" is a brilliant section of mixed ice and rock on the east face of Thatchtop Mountain.  Linking thin but moderately angled sections of ice with interesting mixed climbing on solid rock, this route's last pitch into the "Fang" is one of the best mixed pitches in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Description 

This seldom done mixed line links up an easy slab of ice with some well protected and interesting dry tooling on quality rock, all the while aiming for the hanging curtain which is known as the "Fang" on the route "Pipe Organ".  There was no signs of previous passage on my ascent with Steve Johnson in November 2006 and likely some of this terrain was previously unclimbed.  Either way, this version and a large number of possible variations which likely have been done, make for an interesting adventure on some of the most consistent alpine ice and featured granite in the park.

Although all of the routes on this face are usually done in mid-winter ice,  "Organ Pipes" often comes into "fat" shape by October and can last until April some seasons.  The "Fang" seems to form regularly at least for the last 8 seasons and the lower slabs are usually somewhat ice covered.  Although it is unlikely to get a lot of traffic, this high-quality mixed climbing terrain is some of the most consistent in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Avalanche Danger 

The "All Mixed Up" cirque on this east face of Thatchtop is one of the more abundant ice flows in the high country of Colorado.   It's east-facing aspect means that it is somewhat protected from the strong easterly winds of the PTC "Patagonia Training Center" (one of the winter names for RMNP) along with "Windy Mountain National Park."   

Unfortunately when there are 6 inches or more of new snow combined with wind, this cirque is often the recipient of the wind-blown snow and with ample catch and load terrain both above and below this route, and with angles in the mid-30's on those slopes,  the risk of avalanches can at times by CONSIDERABLE, HIGH, or EXTREME- any of these three danger forecasts should make one reconsider their plans.  Extreme caution should be used in time of CONSIDERABLE or higher avalanche danger.   Avalanche rescue gear is a good idea and very careful route management can make a difference, but the approach and the route are in an avalanche chute, so there may not be any safer route options available here.  A bail-out plan to something like the Loch Vale or Ed's Cantina can be safer options when avalanche danger is especially HIGH or EXTREME. 

Location 

The approach to "Organ Pipes" involves a somewhat brutal hike for a Front Range ice route.  Departing from the Glacier Gorge trailhead at approx. 9300', the four mile total hike first goes about 2 miles to the Glacier Gorge junction where one turns south into the Glacier Gorge to cross Mills Lake (much easier when frozen).  From the south end of Mills Lake, one hopefully finds a trail up the steep forested hlllside following the left edge of a section of forest taken out by a Size 3+ climax avalanche in March of 2003.

The steep hike from the lake up to the base of the route can be anything from a dry hike in early season, to one requiring snowshoes and ski poles for most of the way, to a cramponing approach across and up from the lake.  Depending on snow conditions, one should be ready for any eventuality.  Avalanche conditions can range from low to extreme on the slopes immediately below and above the route and spindrift is common so a hood on the jacket can be helpful. 

Rescue services will take a while here and contacting "911" resources could be the crux of an adventure gone bad.  Winter conditions can quickly kill an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or broken.  Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along with communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry adventure.  Tell a responsible person where you are going and when you plan to return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues in Rocky Mountain National Park.

P1- 50m up WI2 slabs and some thicker steps staying on the right side of the right-most slabby flow- belay off screws or rock.

P2- 40m  climb straight right out of the belay on easier broken terrain (M2) to a traverse across a rock step to the base of a left facing corner system.

P3- 35m Well protected moves up a left facing corner (M3) then a traverse left across a ledge to bouldering moves off a ledge (M5- 5.9) to reach a ledge above which is traversed back right to a belay in rock.

P4- 50m- The most classic pitch of the climb at WI4+ , M3 and well worth the effort to get up there. Lots of gear but interesting climbing, mostly slabby and steppy until you reach the ice which is hopefully well-bonded (cold) and phat. Belaying in the cliffs to the right at the top or wrapping a bunch of talus with rope are common anchoring techniques for the leader.

Descent

Climb up and around to the left (southwest) above the cliff band which defines the top of "All Mixed Up" , and continue traversing south for another 400' before heading straight down a shallow ridge for longer than you think.  If done well, the terrain is all 2nd with a little bit of 3rd class- pretty casual if you stay far enough southwest at the beginning and then wait long enough for the final connecting chute down to the base of the route, which empties out literally at the southern end of the base of the wall.

Warning:  In addition to avalanche risks which can be high at certain times, ravens are always an issue and will easily and quickly ransack a pack for food. 

Protection 

A standard rock rack with about a half-dozen screws (some stubby) should be sufficient.  At least a half-dozen pitons in medium-knifeblade to medium-lost arrows are helpful as will be doubles on the smaller cams and nuts.  Bringing nuts that you don't mind "pick-heading" might be nice as would a tag-line if retreat becomes necessary.    Many shoulder-length slings and some doubles (48") will be helpful. 

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