The multi-pitch ice and mixed route "All Mixed Up" is one of the classic climbs of this type in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Sitting up high on the east face of Thatchtop Mountain, this route is typically in "ideal" shape from November through March each year.

                               Warming up on the east face of Thatchtop on a cold winter day

Warning:  Avalanche Danger can be "HIGH"  on this route due to it's lee nature and unanchored slopes.  Numerous large avalanches have run the entire length of the approach on this route and avalanche debri has been observed numerous times on the approach path.  Check avalanche conditions, consider taking avalanche rescue gear when necessary or choosing a safer location to spend the day.

Description 

This classic ice and sometimes mixed line takes a dramatic and very visible path up the center of the east face of Thatchtop Mountain. Although the route is a winter ice climb,  it often comes into "fat" shape by October and can last until April some seasons.  It does get a lot of visitation, especially on weekends at the normal beginning of the ice season (Dec. and Jan.) and so a weekday approach or being there first are two good options during the "peak" season. 

The "All Mixed Up" cirque on this east face of Thatchtop is acually one of the more abundant ice flows in the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park.  Being east facing means that ithis cirque can often be protected from the strong winter winds days but unfortunately also being the recipient of any wind blown snow combined with the angle make for a potential avalanche basin and trap for humans.  Often the wind is strong enough to also strip the east aspects and the approach can also be on bare ground above treeline up to the base of the route. 

Avalanche Danger 

This cirque on Thatchtop is one of the more abundant ice flows in the high country of Colorado.   It's east-facing aspect means that it is somewhat protected from the strong easterly winds of the PTC "Patagonia Training Center" (one of the winter names for RMNP) along with "Windy Mountain National Park."  Wind loading into the top, middle and bottom of this route takes place regularly and the entire cirque can also be heavily scoured and mostly dry with just small pockets of slab danger in places where there is sufficient snow.

A satellite view of the east face of Thatchtop with the approach in green, route in blue, descent in light-blue and known avalanche paths circled in red.  The routes Organ Pipes and The Finger are in purple.  The SW corner of Mills Lake is the patch of white in the bottom-right,

Unfortunately when there are 6 inches or more of new snow combined with wind, this cirque is often the recipient of the wind-blown snow and with ample catch and load terrain both above and below this route, and with angles in the mid-30's on those slopes,  the risk of avalanches can at times by CONSIDERABLE, HIGH, or EXTREME- any of these three danger forecasts should make one reconsider their plans.  Extreme caution should be used in time of CONSIDERABLE or higher avalanche danger.   Avalanche rescue gear is a good idea and very careful route management can make a difference, but the approach and the route are in an avalanche chute, so there may not be any safer route options available here.  A bail-out plan to something like the Loch Vale or Ed's Cantina can be safer options when avalanche danger is especially HIGH or EXTREME. 

Route Information

The approach to "All MIxed Up" involves a somewhat brutal hike for a Front Range ice route.  Departing from the Glacier Gorge trailhead at approx. 9300', the four mile total hike first goes about 2 mles to the Glacier Gorge junction where one turns south into the Glacier Gorge to cross Mills Lake (much easier when frozen).  From the south end of Mills Lake, one hopefully finds a trail up the steep forested hlllside following the left edge of a section of forest taken out by a large avalanche in March of 2003.

The steep hike from the lake up to the base of the route can be anywhere from a dry hike, to one requiring snowshoes for most of the way to a cramponing approach across and up from the lake.  Depending on snow conditions, one should be ready for any eventuality.  Avalanche conditions can range from low to extreme on the slopes immediately below and above the route and spindrift is common so a hood on the jacket can be helpful.

There are a number of alternative starts, belay stances, and at least two independent lines flank the center route, AMU.  These variations can be a bit more difficult and often require a bigger rock rack to negotiate some longer, dry patches.  In big years such as 06'/07', all three of the lines were in fat shape.

P1- 50m up WI2 slabs and some thicker steps up to a short, vertical stretch.

P2- 50m Up what can be almost WI 4 or thin and slabby, ascend straight up the thickest option available.  Belaying in either ice or in some cracks at the top of the wall give more anchoring options here than above in the loose snow and willows.

                                                      The 2nd pitch in dryer conditions

P3- 30m steep snow to the base of the final ice pitch.  Belay on the far left in rock or far right on ice/rock anchors.

P4- 50m- The most classic pitch of the climb at WI 3+ and well worth the effort to get up there. Usually quite fat and straight forward.  Belaying in the cliffs to the right at the top or wrapping a bunch of talus with rope are common anchoring techniques for the leader.

                       The third pitch before climber traffic "steps-out" the crux curtain

Descent

It may be prudent under common snow conditions here to belay a pitch acoss the snowbank to the left (south) of the route finish as this slope is often shaky.  Past here the way down is all 2nd with a little bit of 3rd class- pretty casual if you stay far enough south at the beginning and then wait long enough for the final connecting chute down to the base of the route, which empties out literally at the southern end of the base of the wall.

An eagle's eye view of the east face of Thatchtop with AMU in green, known avalanche paths in RED, route in blue and 3rd class descent in yellow.  The Loch Vale ice area is LV and I haveyou can descend directly down into this area from the top of the route for an afternoon of climbing after AMU - cairns mark much of the way into the "Spiral Gully" which descends into the ice area next to Mixed Feelings and Strike Free Zone.

Warning:  In addition to avalanche risks which can be high at certain times, ravens are always an issue and they will easily ransack a pack for food. 

            The east face of Thatchtop showing the route in red and approach/ descent in green  

Protection 

In good years, a standard rack of 19-21cm screws, about 10 for the route would be adequate for belays and lead protection.  A single rope is the lightest option if retreat is unlikely.  A couple of pitons, medium knifeblade or arrows can be helpful along with a light rack of nuts and smaller cams.

Comments (0)