New Beginnings is a classic mixed pitch of the highest quality and comes-IN at a reasonable grade of M6.  This 30m high crag of ice and steep, featured rock is part of the "Guide's Wall" area, just northeast of Lake Helene and below Notchtop Spire. 

                                          Dale Remsberg on the FA of "New Beginnnings"

Warning:  Falling rock and ice can are a major concern when temperatures exceed freezing and this route is particularly susceptible to warmer temperatures and rapid melting and would best be avoided under these circumstances.  This route is south-facing and at just above 9,500' elevation, it is prone to overheating.  There can also be hazardous avalanche conditions in this location, so check beforehand.

Description 

New Beginnings is spectacular when "IN" shape which when first done was half-mixed climbing and half-ice.   The pure ice version of this route can reach all the way to the ground in fat years.   The initial difficulties start 5 meters above the ground in a steep but juggy crack which takes clean rock protection to reach the hanging curtain which forms thick and makes for a steep finish to this outstanding mixed pitch.

Avalanche Danger

New Beginnings is on a south aspect and at the base of slopes that connect with the east-southeast facing flanks of Notchtop Mountain (formally known as the North Face).  This area often has higher avalanche danger due to the steep and unsuppported, lee slopes which sit just uphill of this small ampitheater.  Extreme care must be taken when descending into the valley in which the Guide's Wall sits as all of the entrance/exit slopes are prime avalanche terrain in certain conditions.  A danger rating higher than Considerable would be good reason to avoid this location.

                        The Guide's Wall with "New Beginnings" on the left-hand side

Location 

The Guide's Wall and New Beginnings are located 1/2 mile northeast of Lake Helene, about 300' vertical feet down valley from where the trail from Bear Lake reaches turn-off uphill to Notchtop r downhill to Fern Lake.  Travel directly north from the Bear Lake Trailhead for approx. 3 miles to Lake Helene where the descent into the cirque can be a crux.   Once down the initial steepness, traverse north to check-out Grace Falls and to avoid the dense forest below.

Hopefully there are a few other routes in good shape nearby the base of New Beginnings to round-out the day.   It might also be possible to link-up some climbing on Grace Falls with the Guide's Wall routes for a complete day of alpine cragging.  This is a very windy location so if the gusts are extreme at the trailhead, perhaps head to the Loch Vale for a more protected venue.

                                     In the initial rock difficulties on New Beginnings                                         

Rescue services will take some time to reach this location and contacting "911" resources could be the crux of an adventure gone bad.  Winter conditions can quickly kill an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or broken.  Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along with communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry adventure.  Tell a responsible person where you are going and when you plan to return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues in Rocky Mountain National Park.

P1- 30m First for 5 meters up a WI3 flow to the start of the "slight ramp" which diagonals left under the curtain.  A fixed pin and numerous cams and nuts protect this section.  Transition onto the curtain and once atop the ice, another 10 meters of steep ice lead to a flat landing and an anchor tree higher up.

Descent

From a tree anchor, rappel or lower-off with one rope for 30m down the route to the base.

Protection 

A small ice rack should be adequate for this route along with small cams including 00 TCU up to 0.5 Camalot, with doubles in the .3 (yellow) camalot size, plus a small assortment of nuts.  A pin placed on lead was left behind, and no other pins are probably needed.  The gear is good on this route and it can be sewn-up.     

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