The ice route "Jaws" is a fickle beast as a lower elevation (8500') and south-facing conditions often conspire to melt away what can be one of the better climbs of this type in Rocky Mountain National Park.

                                                            Jaws in early spring conditions-

Warning:  Falling rock and ice can are a major concern when temperatures exceed freezing and this route is particularly susceptible to warmer temperatures and rapid melting and would best be avoided under these circumstances.

Description 

Jaws is spectacular when "IN" shape and with it's easily accessible location it could easily be the most popular ice climb in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Unfortunately some of the charm of this location is it's potential for sunny warmth and these conditions work against the consistent formation of this classic pure ice route.

So to catch this "beast" in shape is to savor a spectacular curtain of ice and with some motivation and good conditions, there can be dozens of variations as well as nearby ice-filled gully's that can make for a more than full day in this welcoming location.  

Avalanche Danger

When we are in the brunt of winter and avalanche danger makes the high country too dangerous, this can be one of the safer locations due to the minimal snowpack which typically sits above this climb.  The approach is through a dense forest and the terrain above is rarely snow covered during the winter months for any length of time.

Location 

The climb in Rocky Mountain National Park is one of the closest to Estes Park with a fifteen minute drive from Estes Park to the parking lot in Moraine Canyon where the road is gated in the winter a 1/2 mile before the Fern Canyon trailhead. 

                                                    In the middle of the WI-4 crux of Jaws

Rescue services will take a while here and contacting "911" resources could be the crux of an adventure gone bad.  Winter conditions can quickly kill an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or broken.  Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along with communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry adventure.  Tell a responsible person where you are going and when you plan to return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues in Rocky Mountain National Park.

P1- 45m up a fat WI-3 flow to a 10m WI-4 crux which then traverses up and right on easier ground to belay off a large tree or screws at the top of the climb.  There is also a four-piton anchor at the 30m height on the left side of this route to facilitate rappelling with one rope or to facilitate top-roping the left side of the falls with a 60m rope.

                                                    The rappel tree is visible above the climber

Descent

Rappel with two ropes for 50m down the route to the base.  There is an anchor consisting of 5 pitons and a nut exactly 30m above the base of the route and a slung tree at the top.  With one rope, two rappels of 20 and 30 meters will be necessary to descend from the very top of the route.

Protection 

A standard ice rack should be adequate for this route.  In thinner conditions or doing the other variations may require rock protection.