Dreamweaver is one of the most classic couloirs in Rocky Mountain National Park as it cuts a striking line up the north face of the park's second highest peak, Mt. Meeker.  This 1400' couloir is typically in-shape when it becomes a firm snow climb up to 50 degrees with a few pitches of fresh alpine ice up to WI 2 in difficulty.   When it gains this form in May and June of each year, it is a very enjoyable climb up an aesthetic gash on an otherwise forbidding north face.

                                    Dreamweaver in June 2008 conditions

Description 

Dreamweaver has long been considered one of the most classic couloirs in Rocky Mountain National Park and in ideal spring conditions, it's five long pitches of moderate snow and ice climbing along with a 4.5 mile approach and overall 4500' of vertical gain (1400' in the couloir)take one directly to the summit of Mt. Meeker (13,911'). This is a worthy challenge for the experienced mountaineer who wants to explore this sweeping north face and it's snowy gash which provides a RMNP classic ascent.

This route can be done year-round as there is typically less avalanche danger on the route and an alternative descent of the Iron Gates can keep one out of the more serious avalanche zone which encompasses the Loft area to the north of Mt. Meeker which is the most common descent path for this and most climbs of Mt. Meeker.  That said, the Dreamweaver route is most ideal and in it's most moderate conditions in the early summer when the soft snows of winter finally consolidate into a solid form which is best ascended with crampons and tools.  Otherwise, climbing up to 5.6 (M1) can be found when the couloir is not fully snow filled, (Jul.-Nov.) or when the snow is too loose (Dec- April) to be solid enough for climbing.  When the couloir is dry in the late summer it would mostly be a scramble up loose rock and perhaps the least aesthetic way to reach the summit of Mt. Meeker.

               The route Dreamweaver in green with the approach and descent of the Loft in red

Avalanche Danger 

The route itself is in very tight terrain and only the bottom slopes and first pitch have much risk of avalanche danger; often the snow here is firm due to wind hammering but the couloir itself can be full of bottomless fluff which is less than pleasant to climb through and often prone to sluffing on these down-sloping slabs.  In the early fall and winter, when there is little snow except in this somewhat lee/cross-loaded chasm, the danger would be confined primarily to the bottom of the Dreamweaver couloir and typically in the Loft area which is the most common descent from this climb.

That said, the approach to this climb involves hiking the summertime trail to Chasm Lake which as one descends to Chasm Lake from the Chasm Junction, there is a large slope that is crossed which would be the most likely spot to encounter unstable slabs in the mid-winter.  The Loft area between Mt. Meeker and Longs Peak is typically an area of considerable avalanche danger due to it's lee aspect and moderate angle below and above the cliffs through which the climber's path traverses.

A bottom view of the initial slopes which lead around the left side of the Flying Buttress with the bail-off couloir and access to Darkstar on the right.

Location 

The approach to Dreamweaver is a high-altitude trudge of approximately 4.5 miles from the Longs Peak trailhead.  Winter snows can obscure the trail for much of the way to the base of the route at Chasm Lake and GPS and/or advanced map and compass skills could be necessary to follow the path and more importantly, to find one's way back to the car.

From the Longs Peak trailhead at approx. 9,400' follow the summertime trail to Chasm Junction at 11,540' and then traverse down to the meadows where the ranger cabin sits and where the permanent bathrooms are located.  Above here head straight south to the base of the couloir which starts at approximately 12,600' and takes a direct line to the 13,911' summit  of Meeker.

          John Ackelson enjoying typical mid-June conditions on the fourth pitch of Dreamweaver

Rescue services will take a while here and contacting "911" resources could be the crux of an adventure gone bad.  Winter conditions can quickly kill an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or broken.  Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along with communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry adventure.  Tell a responsible person where you are going and when you plan to return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues in Rocky Mountain National Park.

P1- 60m Belay up 45 degree snow from rock anchors on the right side or solo up to the where the couloir narrows to a body-length.  Anchor on the right or left of the couloir.

P2- 55m Climb up steepening snow (50 degrees) through a chockstone which is ideally covered with ice.  Belay near a full rope length on the right of the couloir- 15' on rock out of the couloir where it first opens up.  If the chockstone crux at the beginning of this pitch is not covered by snow, a M2 variation just 15' right of the couloir is very protectable with cams.

P3- 40m One of the best pitches of the climb starts with steep snow then narrows into a shoulder-width groove of ice up to WI2 or firm snow.  Rock protection is available for the anchor and lead with maybe 1- 3 potential screw placements.  Belay early on the left at a good crack system.  WI2 M1 

                        A close-up of the easy mixed climbing at the top of the 3rd pitch

   An overview of the 3rd pitch with the rock belay anchor on the bottom left side of the couloir

Usually, the middle section of the climb is 3rd classed/scrambled to above the obvious notch which is reached before traversing up and left to where the snow couloir narrows again.  

The tower at the top of the Flying Buttress where the notch connects the couloirs on either side of this buttress

Should it be necessary to retreat from this section of the couloir, the easiest route would be directly west out of the notch on rock slabs which would be precarious if covered with verglas.  These top slabs lead to mellower slopes to the west of this col, which take one down the west side of the Flying Buttress.

P4-  50m After 3rd classing from the notch up to the next steep snow section, set up a belay either on the right or left side of the couloir.  A long pitch up at first steep snow then an obvious ice crux takes one over a 20' section of WI2 and then snow to a belay stance on the right.

                                                  In the middle of the 4th pitch

P5- 50m  The final pitch can be the best with the steepest ice section at the top which offers some screw placements and often a step or two on steep rock on the sides of the crux ice section which can also be protected with small cams on the left rock wall.  Go long after the crux for another 30m to a some good rock for an anchor on the right.   3rd class terrain takes one to the summit ridge and a short exposed traverse north to the highest summit.

                                                In the upper pitches of Dreamweaver

Descent

From the summit, descend to the north down a sandy path towards the western edge of the Loft then, when the angle eases, head back right (northeast) to find cairns approximately 200 yards to the south of the lowest point of the Loft where it funnels into a steep snow slope.  The cairned path heads southeast then east then back north to link into the "traverse ledges" which can be the crux of the day. 

The traverse of these slopes when they are snow covered can be very precarious as the snow is often steep, unconsolidated, and contains a deadly "terrain trap" as a 400' cliff sits at the bottom of these slopes and more than one skilled climber has taken the last ride of their life over this big drop.  Once past the exposure and into the gulley central, glissade or plunge step down to the valley bottom and at the Ranger Cabin pick-up the trail back to the trailhead.

           The north face of Mount Meeker with the Loft descent and the "traverse ledges" on the right

Warning:  In addition to avalanche risks which can be high at certain times, ravens are always an issue and they will easily ransack a pack for food. 

Protection 

A small rock rack  which might include a single set of cams from .3 C3 to #2 camalot plus stoppers should be sufficient. along with two to four screws (some stubby).   Bringing nuts that you don't mind "pick-heading" might be nice.   Many shoulder-length slings and some doubles (48") will be helpful. 

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