Martha
"Martha" is the name given to the aesthetic snow and ice filled cleft which splits the south face of Mt. Lady Washington.  Only recently has it become a popular mixed route and being south facing, it is one of the rare mid-winter ice routes to stay "in-shape" in the high country of RMNP. martha

Martha

 



FA:  Unknown

Type:  Trad multi-pitch mixed

Difficulty:    
WI 2+, M1   (5.6)

Length:  5 pitches 750', Grade III

Season:  December through  March

martha ice route on mt. lady washington

  Image courtesy of Brian Kraus

Description 

 

Martha is not yet found in the guidebooks and only recently has it been getting a fair bit of traffic due to it's presence on the web and the reports of high quality moderate mixed climbing in a spectacular setting.

Where most of the best multi-pitch mixed lines in Rocky Mountain National Park are a bit ephemeral or contain potential avalanche danger for much of the winter, Martha is configured in a way that minimizes avalanche risk and with it's due south-facing aspect, it can be a warm place to climb during the frigid conditions that are common in this alpine region. 

It's south-facing aspect is also conducive to ice forming during the mid-winter months which is rare in this region and at this elevation where most ice routes sublimate and dry-up during the winter. Martha just seems to keep getting better during this time of the year.

south face of Mount lady Washington

 

Avalanche Danger 

The route itself is in very tight terrain and only the bottom slopes and first pitch have much risk of avalanche danger;  usually the snow here is firm due to heating or wind hammering.  I have climbed this route after more than a foot of fresh snow and in temp.'s as low as 0 F and even in these conditions, with sunshine we found excellent climbing in this often shoulder-width gash.

That said, the approach to this climb involves hiking the summertime trail to Chasm Lake which as one descends to Chasm Lake from the Chasm Junction, there is a large slope that is crossed which would be the most likely spot to encounter unstable slabs in the mid-winter.  Extreme caution should be taken with this slope and potentially on the descent if there is a lot of new, unstable snow in this cirque.

approach to chasm meadows and longs peak colorado

Hiking into Martha in early January conditions-  0F and no wind on this special day.

mid route on martha mount lady washington martha on mount lady washington

Soloing up the often moderate snow of the first pitch and getting into the narrows section of the third  pitch.

Route Information

 

P1- 60m    Up WI-1 slabs with maybe an easy mixed move or two and then climb the widening couloir on 30-40 degree snow to either a belay on the left or right hand sides of the couloir on with a rock anchor.

 

P2- 40m    Climb up steepening snow (50 degrees) to belay at the left side of the first constriction.

 

P3- 50m    One of the coolest sections of the climb starts sometimes with a WI2 move or steep snow into a shoulder-width groove which is usually firmer snow or WI 1 for 100' then make some thin moves left on ice and rock to a nice ledge on top of this first crux.  Rock protection is available for the anchor and lead with maybe 1- 3 potential screw placements.  (WI2 M1)

 

P4- 50m    Step right across a rock slab out of the belay or straight-up and then right on slabby (with big edges) rock or lower angle snow and ice for much of the way.  Belay on the right in rock just below the obvious crux pillar. (WI 1 M1)

 

P5- 50m  This is what you came all this way for:  A 7 meter section of thin ice (WI2+) and rock stemming moves (M1) will take a screw or small cams on the left wall to adequately protect this thought-provoking crux.  

Above here the difficulties mellow and a belay can be set-up under a sheltered overhang on the left-side wall about 100' above.

martha in ice conditions

Pitch 3 in pure water ice conditions in May, 2008.


last pitch martha mount lady washington

The final pitch and crux of Martha.

Descent

 

Climb up and around to the left (southwest) above the cliff band which defines the climber's left side of the couloir.  Traverse due west towards the Diamond face of Longs for about 200 yards to reach an obvious couloir which can be descended on snow or on the rock on it's skier's left side.  

Take this down to Chasm Lake.  (30-45 minutes total).  Otherwise if one summit's Mount Lady Washington, follow the east ridge back to Chasm Junction for the direct descent back to the trail or head north into the Boulderfield for a longer but flatter return via Granite Pass.

descent from martha and mount lady washington

The descent route down the Camel Couloir on the southwest end of Mount Lady Washington.

 

Protection 

A standard rock rack along with two to four screws (some stubby) should be sufficient along with a couple of knifeblade or arrow pitons.  A single rack of cams from .3 (C3) to a #2 camalot plus some stoppers should be sufficient.  Bringing nuts that you don't mind "pick-heading" might be nice.   Many shoulder-length slings and some doubles (48") will be helpful. 

climbing rack for mixed climbing

 

 


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