"Martha" is the name given to the aesthetic snow and ice filled cleft which splits the south face of Mt. Lady Washington. Only recently has it become a popular mixed route and being south facing, it is one of the rare mid-winter ice routes to stay "in-shape" in the high country of RMNP.
FA: |
Unknown |
Type: |
Trad, Alpine |
Difficulty: |
WI 2+, 5.6 (M1) |
Length: |
5 pitches, 750' feet, Grade II |
Season: |
late fall through early spring |
Martha in spring conditions- falling rock and ice can be a concern when temperatures exceed freezing.
Description
Martha is not yet found in the guidebooks and only recently has it been getting a fair bit of traffic due to it's presence on the web and the reports of high quality moderate mixed climbing in a spectacular setting.
Where most of the best multi-pitch mixed lines in Rocky Mountain National Park are a bit ephemeral or contain potential avalanche danger for much of the winter, Marth is configured in a way that minimizes avalanche risk and with it's due south-facing aspect, it can be a warm place to climb during the frigid conditions that are common in this alpine region. It's south-facing aspect is also conducive to ice forming during the mid-winter months which is rare in this region and at this elevation where most ice routes sublimate and dry-up during the winter. Martha just seems to keep getting better during this time of the year.
Traversing on the trail from Chasm Junction to the ranger cabin through the potential avalanche zone.
The route itself is in very tight terrain and only the bottom slopes and first pitch have much risk of avalanche danger; usually the snow here is firm due to heating or wind hammering. I have climbed this route after more than a foot of fresh snow and in temp.'s as low as 0 F and even in these conditions, with sunshine we found excellent climbing in this often shoulder-width gash.
That said, the approach to this climb involves hiking the summertime trail to Chasm Lake which as one descends to Chasm Lake from the Chasm Junction, there is a large slope that is crossed which would be the most likely spot to encounter unstable slabs in the mid-winter. Extreme caution should be taken with this slope and potentially on the descent if there is a lot of new, unstable snow in this cirque.
Location
The approach to Martha is a high-altitude trudge of approximately 4.5 miles from the Longs Peak trailhead. Winter snows can obscure the trail for much of the way to the base of the route at Chasm Lake and GPS and/or advanced map and compass skills could be necessary to follow the path and more importantly, to find one's way back to the car.
From the Longs Peak trailhead at approx. 9,400' follow the summertime trail to Chasm Junction at 11,540' and then traverse down to the meadows where the ranger cabin sits to then make the short climb up to Chasm Lake at 11,800'. "Martha" starts at 12,000' and one can either go to the summit of Mt. Lady W at 13,281' or take the Camel descent cut-off at approx. 12,750' which first traverses west then down into the lower camel couloir for a quick loop back to Chasm Lake and the long walk home.
The first "pitch of Martha in January 2002 conditions after a foot of fresh snow fell the night before.
Rescue services will take a while here and contacting "911" resources could be the crux of an adventure gone bad. Winter conditions can quickly kill an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or broken. Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along with communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry adventure. Tell a responsible person where you are going and when you plan to return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Image courtesy of Brian Kraus
P1- 60m up WI-1 slabs with maybe an easy mixed move or two and then climb the widening couloir on 30-40 degree snow to either a belay on the left or right hand sides of the couloir on with a rock anchor.
P2- 40m Climb up steepening snow (50 degrees) to belay at the left side of the first constriction.
P3- 50m One of the coolest sections of the climb starts sometimes with a WI2 move or steep snow into a shoulder-width groove which is usually firmer snow or WI 1 for 100' then make some thin moves left on ice and rock to a nice ledge on top of this first crux. Rock protection is available for the anchor and lead with maybe 1- 3 potential screw placements. WI2 M1
P4- 50m Step right across a rock slab out of the belay or straight-up and then right on slabby (with big edges) rock or lower angle snow and ice for much of the way. Belay on the right in rock just below the obvious crux pillar. (WI 1 M1)
The fourth pitch in typical mid-winter conditions
P5- 50m This is what you came all this way for: A 7 meter section of thin ice (WI2+) and rock stemming moves (M1) will take a screw or small cams on the left wall to adequately protect this thought-provoking crux. Above here the difficulties mellow and a belay can be set-up under a sheltered overhang on the left-side wall about 100' above.
Looking up at the crux ice pitch in typical "IN" conditions
Descent
Climb up and around to the left (southwest) above the cliff band which defines the climber's left side of the couloir. Traverse due west towards the Diamond face of Longs for about 200 yards to reach an obvious couloir which can be descended on snow or on the rock on it's skier's left side. Take this down to Chasm Lake. (30-45 minutes total). Otherwise if one summit's Mount Lady Washington, follow the east ridge back to Chasm Junction for the direct descent back to the trail or head north into the Boulderfield for a longer but flatter return via Granite Pass.
Martha in January conditions after a large snowfall
Warning: In addition to avalanche risks which can be high at certain times, ravens are always an issue and they will easily ransack a pack for food.
The route "Martha" up the center of the south face of Mt. Lady W with the descent down the "Camel Couloir".
Protection
A standard rock rack along with two to four screws (some stubby) should be suffient along with a couple of knifeblade or arrow pitons. A single rack of cams from .3 C3 to #2 camalot plus stoppers should be sufficient. Bringing nuts that you don't mind "pick-heading" might be nice. Many shoulder-length slings and some doubles (48") will be helpful.
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