The Smear of Fear is one of the best positioned ice routes in Colorado as it cuts a straignt line up the lower east face of Longs Peak. It rarely and then temporarily comes into climbable shape, but when it does, The Smear is an icy treat not to be missed.
Smear of Fear
Grade III: WI 6, M5
First Ascent: |
Jeff Lowe, Duncan Ferguson and Malcom Daly, 1986 |
Style: |
Thin and ephemeral ice which can go half or all the way up the lower east slabs from the Mills Glacier to Broadway |
Difficulty: |
5.10 (M5) rock, WI 6 (thin) |
Length: |
3-6 pitches depending on year |
Season: |
Typically early winter/ late fall |
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The Smear of Fear "IN" condition in November of 2003
The east face of the Diamond with the Smear of Fear on the left side of the lower east face
Description
When the Smear of Fear comes into shape it can be one of the most striking and aesthetic ice lines in the U.S. and still a test-piece 20 yrs. after it's first ascent by the dynamic trio of Lowe, Ferguson and Daly. Unfortunately, there can be many years where conditions conspire to keep this route from being climbable and so an opportunity to ascend this ephemeral smear on the lower east face of Longs Peak should not be missed.
Sunrise on the Diamond with the barely "IN" condition, Smear of Fear on the left
Location
You’ll gain 4,850 feet from the trailhead to the summit of Longs should you take this route to the top. Otherwise it is a 2600' elevation gain and about 4.7 miles to the Mills Glacier at 12,000' where this 500-1000' ice route sits. The Smear is commonly done in a long day, though a high level of fitness is needed to get back to the car before dark. It is also nice to camp the night before, usually at the Chasm Lake bivy sites just past the west end of the Chasm Lake. At all bivy sites, tents are not allowed and a bivy permit (issued by the backcountry office) is required.
The route "Alexander's" marked in blue with the Smear and the Broadway traverse in red
Leaving the Longs Peak trailhead at 9,400', one ascends the rocky trail to above treeline to reach the Jim's Grove trail junction after 2.8 miles and 1,600' of elevation gain. This initial section typically takes around 1:15 hours. Another 1.3 miles takes one to the Chasm Lake junction and another .7 miles takes one to Chasm Lake at 11,800'. The approach to Chasm Lake is typically done in about 2 hrs. and with another 45 minutes up to Lambslide, reaching this crampon-on point would best be done just before sunrise.
It is most ideal when the lake has at last a foot of ice on it as it can easily be crossed in 5 minutes in these conditions to reach the western shore where just northwest are the big boulders that are the official "bivy sites" for this side of Longs. There is often sufficient ice on the lake from early December until early June. Otherwise stay right (north) around the lake where a number of cairns well above the lake (100' vertical) contour through the talus to reach the western end (30 minutes avg.).
From the west end of the lake, stay left (south) to climb around the terminal moraine of the long-dead Mills Glacier, taking the easiest way through the snow or scree to reach the base of the Lambslide Couloir. Gearing up on the talus on top of the glacier is easy and the route is just a short stroll away from here.
The Smear of Fear barely "IN" condition in October, 2007 with the rock traverse marked in red
Avalanche Danger
The East Face of Longs Peak can have significant avalanche hazard, often from mid-October until mid- April or later. This very exposed eastern aspect is usually lee-loaded after a snowstorm and extreme caution should be used in evaluating the potential for slab avalanches. The Lambslide Couloir threatens this route in the winter as do the slopes below the Mills Glacier and the traverse into the Chasm Lake ranger cabin from Chasm Junction can be very avalanche prone in the winter and spring seasons.
Route Description
Depending on the amount of ice on the lower part of the route, it can be started from the Mills Glacier itself or about 80' higher from a ledge system on the left side of the route. When there are very thin conditions on the start of the route, a large snowdrift can be very helpful in cushioning an unprotected fall on the first 30-40'of the route.
Typically the route does not reach the glacier but makes it just past the diagonal crack to the left of the ice about 100' above the Glacier. This is the mixed crux and entrance onto the route.
Getting started from the Mills Glacier in very thin but climbable conditions in 11/03
P1 - 50m (WI6) or M5 From the Mills Glacier, climb very thin ice straight-up for a rope length or until a decent belay stance can be reached. OR if the ice is higher, climb a low 5th class pitch to reach the left side of the big ledge just left of the ice and belay from the crack which continues up into the ice. Climb the insecure crack with tricky but adequate gear plus a few fixed pins to reach the ice just below the overlap where there are also a couple of pitons (if not ice covered) available to help protect what can be a thin column. Belay off of screws.
The first pitch in thin conditions and with a big snowdrift below
At about the point of getting some very stubby ice screws in for protection
P2 - 55m (WI5) Climb thickening ice over a couple of more bulges and belay in thick ice just below the large left-facing corner where the ice often ends.
The second pitch of the Smear in thick conditions
P3 - 40m (WI4) Finish up either a short pitch or go longer when the ice reaches far past the big left-facing corner system about 1/2 way up the face. Rappel from v-threads or rock anchors here or continue above for 2-3 more pitches depending on ice availability.
Descent
Unless it can be taken to Broadway, the Smear of Fear is typically rappelled and there are usually good rock anchors in the big left-facing corner where the route often stops half-way up the face. From here, a 60m rappel brings one down to another rock anchor on the right side of the ice. This second 60m rappel takes one down to a final rock anchor from which a 30m rappel brings one down to the Mills Glacier. Material for making v-threads could come in handy here if an premature descent is needed or if the rock anchors have been damaged or are unreachable.
Permits
No permit is required to climb on Longs Peak. Bivy or camping permits are required and available at the Rocky Mtn National Park Backcountry Office (970-586-1242). They cost $15 (usually free from Nov. 1- May 15) are strictly enforced, and must be picked up in person during business hours.
Rescue services will take some time to reach this location and contacting "911" resources could be the crux of an adventure gone bad. Winter conditions can quickly kill an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or broken. Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along with communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry adventure. Tell a responsible person where you are going and when you plan to return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues in Rocky Mountain National Park.
Gear
Depending on conditions, a light or heavier rock rack may be needed to adequately protect the first pitch. Previously fixed pitons may be gone or in bad shape so a small set of knifeblades and arrows might be helpful along with small to medium sized cams. Many stubby screws (4-6) may be helpful along with another 6-10 medium length screws (17cm) for protection and anchors depending on pitch length and leader comfort.
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