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Columbine Falls

Columbine Falls and the Peacock Pillars are some of the most consistently forming ice flows in RMNP and they often remain climbable for at least five months of the year.

 

columbine falls

Columbine Falls

and 

Peacock Pillars



FA:  Unknown

Type:  Frozen Waterfalls

Difficulty:  WI 3 to 4 when fully      
                        formed

Length:  50m depending on snow
                  heights

Season:  November through  March

Click on photos  (many courtesy of Coley Brennan) to enlarge.


peacock pools in longs peak cirque colorado
Departing the Longs Peak Cirque on a late November day 2008 with both  waterfalls  in good ice shape and no avalanche danger on the approach, yet.

 

Warning:  Avalanche Danger can be "HIGH"  on this route due to it's lee aspect and the adjacent, large slopes that threaten these ice routes in their runout paths.  

Numerous large avalanches have run the entire length and width of the approach for this route and avalanche debris have been observed numerous times on the Chasm Lake trail where it passes below the south face of Mt. Lady Washington  path.  

Check avalanche conditions, consider taking avalanche rescue gear when necessary, or choosing a safer location to spend the day.

 


Description 

 

These two waterfalls of  similar height, difficulty, and character sit in one of the most spectacular locations in the State of Colorado;  the Longs Peak/ Mt. Meeker Cirque.  

Columbine Falls is the frozen outlet stream below Chasm Lake which can be a raging waterfall on a hot spring day.

Peacock Pillars are the cumulative  of the few  frozen streams that feed down from the Loft and the North Face of Mount Meeker as they tumble over the cliffs above Peacock Pool.  

Together, these short but fat waterfalls make for a nice day outing or a great plan B when conditions up high are not so conducive to alpine travel.


columbine falls colorado ice climbing
Sticking  picks in the solid ice of Columbine Falls on a Thanksgiving week ascent.

Columbine Falls Colorado ice climbing
The Peacock Pillar and Columbine Falls (L-R) in typical mid-winter conditions.

The Longs Peak and Mount Meeker Cirque is the highest valley in Rocky Mountain National Park, with the two highest peaks in the park framing the east and north sides of this precipitous valley. 

Being east facing means that this cirque can often be protected from the strong winter winds  but unfortunately also being the recipient of any wind blown snow.  

The approach trail from Chasm Junction traverses some steep enough slopes below Mount Lady Washington that hold a potential avalanche slab just before reaching the ice climbs.  

Often the wind is strong enough to  strip dry much of these east aspects and the approach can often be on bare ground above treeline up to the base of the route.  

Post-holing through the trees from the trailhead to reach treeline is common in the winter and snowshoes or ski's may be critical to surviving this potential 'wallow'.

columbine falls ice climbing colorado

longs peak columbine falls approach colorado

A satellite view of the forested slopes and above treeline terrain (white and brown) that comprise the approach hike into the Longs Peak Cirque and the Columbine Falls. 

When there are 6 inches or more of new snow combined with wind, this cirque is often the recipient of the wind-blown snow and with ample catch and load terrain both above and adjacent to this route, and with angles in the mid-30's on those slopes,  the risk of avalanches can at times by CONSIDERABLE, HIGH, or EXTREME- any of these three danger forecasts should probably cause one to reconsider their plans. 

Caution should be used in time of CONSIDERABLE or higher avalanche danger.   Avalanche rescue gear is a good idea and very careful route management can make a difference, but the approach and the route are in an avalanche chute, so there may not be any safer route options available.  A bail-out plan to something like ' Jaws' or 'Hidden Falls' or Ed's Cantina can be safer options when avalanche danger is especially HIGH or EXTREME. 

 

Route Information

 

The approach to "Columbine Falls" involves a somewhat brutal hike for a Front Range ice route.  Departing from the Longs Peak trailhead at approx. 9450', the four mile total hike first goes about 2 miles to the Jim's Grove camping  junction where one turns right (north) into the Jim's Grove camping or continues south and west for another mile to the Chasm Trail Junction.  

The first solar composting toilet of the day resides at this often windy pass at the Chasm Junction and once the descent into the cirque has begun, hopefully the winds have already started to abate.

This 4 mile hike with an approx. 2200' vertical elevation gain typically takes between 1.5 and 2 hrs. to reach these very high altitude  ice routes 

Depending on snow and wind  conditions, the prepared party should be ready for any potential weather scenario and a worse-case potential of having an injured climber in such an exposed location.

Avalanche conditions can range from low to extreme on the slopes immediately below and above the route and spindrift is common so a hood on the jacket can be helpful.

 

P1- 50m  Up WI3-4  sections between rest ledges and some thicker steps to belay at the top of the ice slabs which extend for another 30 meters above the top of these routes.

columbine falls rocky mountain national park colorado
The yellow trail is the  primary trail with the green trail being the original trail between Jim's Grove and Granite Pass, a short-cut that reduces the distance to Granite Pass  by about 3/4  mile.

columbine falls colorado ice climbing

On the Columbine Falls in fresh-ice conditions.


columbine falls colorado ice climbing ice climbing rocky mountain national park
A fresh snow covering adds another layer of winter to this already cold location. A pack hangs off a belay stance in the thick ice in the middle of one of these routes.

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