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Columbine Falls and the Peacock Pillars are some of the most consistently forming ice flows in RMNP and they often remain climbable for at least five months of the year.
columbine falls
Columbine Falls
and
Peacock Pillars
FA: Unknown
Type: Frozen Waterfalls
Difficulty: WI 3 to 4 when fully
formed
Length: 50m depending on snow
heights
Season: November through March
Click on photos (many courtesy of Coley Brennan) to enlarge.
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Departing the Longs Peak Cirque on a late November day
2008
with both waterfalls in good ice shape and no
avalanche danger on the approach, yet.
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Warning:
Avalanche
Danger can be "HIGH" on this route due to it's lee aspect and
the
adjacent, large slopes that threaten these ice routes in their runout
paths.
Numerous
large avalanches have run the entire
length and width of the approach for this route and avalanche debris
have been
observed numerous times on the Chasm Lake trail where it passes below
the south face of Mt. Lady Washington
path.
Check avalanche
conditions, consider taking avalanche rescue gear when necessary, or
choosing a safer location to spend the day.
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Description
These two waterfalls of similar
height,
difficulty, and character sit in one of the most spectacular locations
in the State of Colorado; the Longs Peak/ Mt. Meeker Cirque.
Columbine Falls is the frozen outlet stream
below Chasm Lake which can be a raging waterfall on a hot spring day.
Peacock Pillars are the cumulative of the few
frozen streams that feed down from the Loft and the North Face of Mount
Meeker as they tumble over the cliffs above Peacock Pool.
Together, these short but fat waterfalls
make for a nice day outing or a great plan B when conditions up high
are not so conducive to alpine travel.
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Sticking picks in the solid ice of Columbine Falls on a
Thanksgiving week ascent.
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The Peacock
Pillar and Columbine Falls (L-R) in typical mid-winter conditions.
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The Longs Peak and
Mount Meeker Cirque is the highest valley in Rocky Mountain National
Park, with the two highest peaks in the park framing the east and north
sides of this precipitous valley.
Being east facing means
that this cirque can often be
protected from the strong winter winds but
unfortunately
also being the recipient of any wind blown snow.
The
approach trail from Chasm Junction traverses some steep enough
slopes below Mount Lady Washington that hold a potential avalanche
slab just before reaching the ice climbs.
Often the
wind is strong enough to strip dry much of these east aspects
and the approach
can often be on bare ground above treeline up to the base of the route.
Post-holing through the
trees from
the trailhead to reach treeline is common in the winter and snowshoes
or ski's may
be critical to surviving this potential 'wallow'.
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A
satellite view of the forested slopes and above treeline terrain (white
and brown) that comprise the approach hike into the Longs Peak Cirque
and the Columbine Falls.
When there are 6 inches
or more of new snow combined with wind, this
cirque is often the recipient of the wind-blown snow
and with
ample catch and load terrain both above and adjacent
to this route, and with
angles in the mid-30's on those slopes, the risk of
avalanches can at
times by CONSIDERABLE, HIGH, or EXTREME- any of these three danger
forecasts should probably cause one to reconsider their plans.
Caution
should be used in time of CONSIDERABLE or higher avalanche
danger.
Avalanche rescue gear is a good idea and very careful route
management can make a difference, but the approach and the
route are in
an avalanche chute, so there may not be any safer route options
available. A bail-out plan to something like ' Jaws'
or 'Hidden Falls' or
Ed's Cantina can be safer options when avalanche danger is especially
HIGH or EXTREME.
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Route Information
The
approach to "Columbine Falls" involves a somewhat brutal hike for a
Front
Range ice route. Departing from the Longs Peak trailhead at
approx.
9450', the four mile total hike first goes about 2 miles to the Jim's
Grove camping junction where one turns right (north) into the
Jim's Grove camping or continues south and west for another mile to the
Chasm Trail Junction.
The first solar composting toilet of the
day resides at this often windy pass at the Chasm Junction and once the
descent into the cirque has begun, hopefully the winds have already
started to abate.
This 4 mile hike with an approx. 2200'
vertical elevation gain typically takes between 1.5 and 2 hrs. to reach
these very high altitude ice routes
Depending on snow and wind
conditions, the prepared party should be ready for any potential
weather scenario and a worse-case potential of having an injured
climber in such an exposed location.
Avalanche
conditions can range from low to extreme on the slopes immediately
below and above the route and spindrift is common so a hood on the
jacket can be helpful.
P1- 50m
Up WI3-4 sections between rest ledges and some
thicker steps to belay at the top of the ice slabs which
extend for another 30 meters above the top of these routes.
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The yellow trail is the primary trail with
the green trail being the original trail between Jim's Grove and
Granite Pass, a short-cut that reduces the distance to Granite
Pass by about 3/4 mile.

On the Columbine Falls in fresh-ice conditions.
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A fresh snow covering adds another layer of winter to this already cold
location. A pack hangs off a belay stance in the thick ice in the middle of one of
these routes.
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