West Gully
FA: Unknown
Type: Multi-pitch ice route
Difficulty: WI-3 with variations up to WI-4
Length: 4 pitches 600', Grade II+
Season: November through March
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The
West Gully and McHenry Peak at the head of the Glacier Gorge.
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Description
This classic
multi-pitch ice route West Gully takes a dramatic path up the
center
of the frozen waterfall which cascades down from the base of McHenrys
Peak into the Black Lake.
Although the route is a winter ice
climb, it
often comes into "fat" shape by October and can last until
April or May
in some seasons.
Due
to the somewhat remote nature of this route and the arduous approach
from the trailhead at Glacier Gorge, an early start is necessary in the
winter due to the short days and extra bivouac/emergency gear
might be
helpful should a longer stay than anticipated become necessary due to
the extreme weather often encountered mid-winter in Rocky Mountain
National Park.
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A variation to the right
of the West Gully ice route.
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A
topo of the West Gully ice route and the other half dozen routes that
can form on the nearby walls.
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Location
The
approach to "West Gully" involves a somewhat brutal hike for a Front
Range ice route. Departing from the Glacier Gorge trailhead
at approx.
9300', the six mile hike first goes about 2 mles to the
Glacier Gorge
junction where one turns south into the Glacier Gorge to cross Mills
Lake (much easier when frozen). In mid-winter once the stream
is
frozen in the center of the valley, skiing or snowshoeing up the
drainage is the most direct way to Black Lake and when conditions are
ideal, it is typically a 2-3 hour approach from the trailhead.

Mitch Blain
getting some good sticks on the second pitch of the West Gully ice
route.
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Rescue
services will take a while here and contacting "911" resources could be
the crux of an adventure gone bad. Winter conditions can
quickly kill
an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or
broken. Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along
with
communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry
adventure.
Tell a responsible person where you are going and
when you plan to
return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact
the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues
in Rocky Mountain
National Park.
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Avalanche
Danger
The avalanche danger on this route can be
CONSIDERABLE to HIGH for
much of the winter due to it's lee nature and surrounding,
unanchored
slopes. Slab avalanches have run the
entire width and length of the
approach pitch and I have observed avalanche debri numerous times on
the approach path and from above the nearby routes. Check
avalanche
conditions before you depart, re-assess once you are in the
mountains, and consider taking avalanche rescue gear or
choosing
another option when necessary.
A recent
slab avalanche at the base of the West Gully.
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Route Information
P1- 40m
Approaching the route from far right is typically safest,
keeping a
hand on the cliff on the right to reach the base will reduce the
avalanche exposure on
this steepening slope (45 degree snow).
Anchor
on screws to start up an at first WI-2 section and belay in a niche on
the far right side of the ice.
WI3 or WI4 pitch up thick and sometimes brittle ice
up to a short,
vertical stretch. The left version is usually hardest;
furthest right
is the easiest. (WI2+)
P2 40m
Climb any number of variations from WI-3 to WI-4 to reach the large
snow bench which splits the route in half. Stretch the calves
before continuing up.
P3- 60m
Start up the monster slab until the rope runs out and anchor in water
ice (WI2)
P4
-20m Finish up the calf
pumping slab to reach the top and anchor in ice again (WI2).
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This
flow is wide enough that there are a number of alternatives
for belay
stances and at least a couple of independent lines
can be done. Easier
or harder variations exist.

Starting
up the first pitch of the West Gully in November conditions.
Photo courtesy of Scott Borger.
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Descent
It
may be prudent under common snow conditions here to belay a pitch acoss
the snowbank to the right (north) of the route finish as this
slope although low angle could be avalanche
prone.
About 200' right
of the top of the route is a rock buttress that has a slung horn and
piton anchor which drops one down to the right of the route past the
steeper snow slopes just right of the final slab
pitches.
Stay above
the slope against the rocks and wind down to either a tree rappel above
the steeper curtains or continue walking carefully north to walk
completely off the route.
A
walk-off descent could traverse through many of these slopes,
so in
CONSIDERABLE to HIGH avalanche danger conditions, a rappel
back down
the route would be the best alternative.
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A
topo of the West Gully with avalanche prone areas in red, ascent and
descent routes in green, and rappel points in blue.
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Protection
A standard
rack of 19-21cm long screws, about 10-12 for the route would
be adequate
for belays and lead protection. A single rope is the lightest
option
if retreat is unlikely.
Material and tools to make
v-threads may be
necessary if avalanche conditions preclude the other, easier descent
options or if time runs short and rappelling back down the route becomes the easiest option.
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A solid two screw
anchor in thick west gully ice at the top of the first pitch.
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