The West Gully and McHenry Peak at the head of the Glacier Gorge.

Description 

This classic multi-pitch ice route West Gully takes a dramatic path up the center of the frozen waterfall which cascades down from the base of McHenrys Peak into the Black Lake.  

Although the route is a winter ice climb, it often comes into "fat" shape by October and can last until April or May in some seasons. 

Due to the somewhat remote nature of this route and the arduous approach from the trailhead at Glacier Gorge, an early start is necessary in the winter due to the short days and extra bivouac/emergency gear might be helpful should a longer stay than anticipated become necessary due to the extreme weather often encountered mid-winter in Rocky Mountain National Park.

A topo of the West Gully ice route and the other half dozen routes that can form on the nearby  walls.

Location 

The approach to "West Gully" involves a somewhat brutal hike for a Front Range ice route.  Departing from the Glacier Gorge trailhead at approx. 9300', the six mile hike first goes about 2 mles to the Glacier Gorge junction where one turns south into the Glacier Gorge to cross Mills Lake (much easier when frozen).  In mid-winter once the stream is frozen in the center of the valley, skiing or snowshoeing up the drainage is the most direct way to Black Lake and when conditions are ideal, it is typically a 2-3 hour approach from the trailhead.

 

Rescue services will take a while here and contacting "911" resources could be the crux of an adventure gone bad.  Winter conditions can quickly kill an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or broken.  Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along with communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry adventure.  Tell a responsible person where you are going and when you plan to return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Avalanche Danger

The avalanche danger on this route can be CONSIDERABLE to HIGH for much of the winter due to it's lee nature and surrounding, unanchored slopes.   Slab avalanches have run the entire width and length of the approach pitch and I have observed avalanche debri numerous times on the approach path and from above the nearby routes.  Check avalanche conditions before you depart, re-assess once you are in the mountains, and consider taking avalanche rescue gear or choosing another option when necessary.

A recent slab avalanche  at the base of the West Gully.

Route Information

P1- 40m  Approaching the route from far right is typically safest, keeping a hand on the cliff on the right to reach the base will reduce the avalanche exposure on this steepening slope (45 degree snow).

Anchor on screws to start up an at first WI-2 section and belay in a niche on the far right side of the ice. WI3 or WI4 pitch up thick and sometimes brittle ice up to a short, vertical stretch.  The left version is usually hardest; furthest right is the easiest.  (WI2+)

P2  40m   Climb any number of variations from WI-3 to WI-4 to reach the large snow bench which splits the route in half.  Stretch the calves before continuing up.

P3- 60m   Start up the monster slab until the rope runs out and anchor in water ice  (WI2)

P4  -20m   Finish up the calf pumping slab to reach the top and anchor in ice again (WI2).

This flow is wide enough that there are a number of alternatives for belay stances and at least a couple of independent lines can be done.  Easier or harder variations exist.

Starting up the first pitch of the West Gully in November conditions.  Photo courtesy of  Scott Borger.

Descent

It may be prudent under common snow conditions here to belay a pitch acoss the snowbank to the right (north) of the route finish as this slope although low angle could be avalanche prone.   

About 200' right of the top of the route is a rock buttress that has a slung horn and piton anchor which drops one down to the right of the route past the steeper snow slopes just right of the final slab pitches.  

Stay above the slope against the rocks and wind down to either a tree rappel above the steeper curtains or continue walking carefully north to walk completely off the route.

A walk-off descent could traverse through many of these slopes, so in CONSIDERABLE to HIGH avalanche danger conditions, a rappel back down the route would be the best alternative.

A topo of the West Gully with avalanche prone areas in red, ascent and descent routes in green, and rappel points in blue.

Protection 

A standard rack of 19-21cm long screws, about 10-12  for the route would be adequate for belays and lead protection.  A single rope is the lightest option if retreat is unlikely.  

Material and tools to make v-threads may be necessary if avalanche conditions preclude the other, easier descent options or if time runs short and rappelling back down the route becomes the easiest option.

A solid two screw anchor in thick west gully ice at the top of the first pitch.

• Black Lake Slabs
• Jewel Lake Ice