The multi-pitch ice route "West Gully" is one of the classic climbs of this type in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Sitting at the headwaters of the Glacier Gorge, this route is typically in "fat" shape from November through March each year.

            The West Gully and surrounding curtains of ice sitting below the majestic McHenry's Peak (13,327')

                                             A close-up of the West Gully in typical mid-winter conditions

Description 

This classic multi-pitch ice route West Gully  takes a dramatic path up the center of the frozen waterfall which cascades down from the base of McHenrys Peak into the Black Lake.  Although the route is a winter ice climb, it often comes into "fat" shape by October and can last until April or May in some seasons. 

                                      A topo of the West Gully and surrounding routes above Black Lake

Due to the somewhat remote nature of this route and the arduous approach from the trailhead at Glacier Gorge, an early start is necessary in the winter due to the short days and extra bivouac/emergency gear might be helpful should a longer stay than anticipated become necessary due to the extreme weather often encountered mid-winter in Rocky Mountain National Park.

              Eli gets some mid-winter sunshine on the east-facing curtains, just right of the West Gully

The Glacier Gorge cirque at the south end of the valley is an ice climber's paradise and the West Gully is just one of a dozen routes around Black Lake and the ice flows here are the most abundant in the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park.  Being east facing means that this cirque can often be protected from the strong winter winds but unfortunately it means also being the recipient of any wind blown snow with ample catch terrain below and along the sides of this route. 

Avalanche Danger

The avalanche danger on this route can be CONSIDERABLE to HIGH for much of the winter due to it's lee nature and surrounding, unanchored slopes.   Slab avalanches have run the entire width and length of the approach pitch and I have observed avalanche debri numerous times on the approach path and from above the nearby routes.  Check avalanche conditions before you depart, re-assess once you are in the mountains, and consider taking avalanche rescue gear or choosing another option when necessary.

Location 

The approach to "West Gully" involves a somewhat brutal hike for a Front Range ice route.  Departing from the Glacier Gorge trailhead at approx. 9300', the six mile hike first goes about 2 mles to the Glacier Gorge junction where one turns south into the Glacier Gorge to cross Mills Lake (much easier when frozen).  In mid-winter once the stream is frozen in the center of the valley, skiing or snowshoeing up the drainage is the most direct way to Black Lake and when conditions are ideal, it is typically a 2 hour approach from the trailhead.

      Close-up of a recent crown from a slab avalanche that ran most of the way across the approach pitch.

Rescue services will take a while here and contacting "911" resources could be the crux of an adventure gone bad.  Winter conditions can quickly kill an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or broken.  Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along with communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry adventure.  Tell a responsible person where you are going and when you plan to return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues in Rocky Mountain National Park.

This flow is wide enough that there are a number of alternatives for belay stances and at least a couple of independent lines can be done.  Easier or harder variations exist.

P1- 60m Approaching the route from far right is typically safest, keeping a hand on the cliff on the right will reduce the avalanche exposure on this steepening slope (45 degree snow) Anchor on screws to start up a WI3 or WI4 pitch up thick and sometimes brittle ice up to a short, vertical stretch.  The left version is usually hardest; furthest right is the easiest.  (WI3-4)

                     Mitch Blain getting some "sticks" in the left-hand WI4 version of the West Gully

                           Pulling above the last vertical section of the first pitch of the West Gully

P2- 70m- Finish up the monster slab to the top, anchoring in water ice or tied off willow trees. (WI2)

                            Mitch Blain taking a break before the "enduro slab" pitch of West Gully

Descent

It may be prudent under common snow conditions here to belay a pitch acoss the snowbank to the right (north) of the route finish as this slope although low angle could be avalanche prone.   About 200' right of the top of the route is a rock buttress that has a slung horn and piton anchor which drops one down to the right of the route past the steeper snow slopes just right of the final slab pitches.  Stay above the slope against the rocks and wind down to either a tree rappel above the steeper curtains or continue walking carefully north to walk completely off the route.

A topo of the most common avalanche prone slopes on this side of the cirque with the most worrisome slopes circled in red.

A walk-off descent could traverse through many of these slopes, so in CONSIDERABLE to HIGH avalanche danger conditions, a rappel back down the route would be the best alternative.

Protection 

A standard rack of 19-21cm long screws, about 10 for the route would be adequate for belays and lead protection.  A single rope is the lightest option if retreat is unlikely.  Material and tools to make v-threads may be necessary if avalanche conditions preclude the other, easier descent options.

                                  A typical ice anchor in the thick, solid ice of the West Gully