Hidden away in the Glacier Gorge valley of Rocky Mountain National Park, the Jewel Lake ice area ls a very accessible ice climbing destination of a moderate grade.  Although it's not yet in the guidebooks, it has been a favorite for years of CMS guides for use in beginner ice classes.

                                                   Jewel Lake Ice in early winter conditions, 2007

Warning:  Falling ice can be a major concern on this climb due to the compact size of this route and with multiple parties on this small flow, this falling ice risk multiplies.  Tucking belayers and non-climbers behind big trees and far from the base of the route is a good solution. 

Description 

The Jewel Lake Ice is a pretty piece of frozen water and with its relatively accessible location in the Glacier Gorge, not far from Mills Lake, it is only about an hour approach to this route in the high country of RMNP.  This has been one of the least visited, yet always formed pieces of ice in the park that can be up to 150' wide with variations from WI2 to Wi3+ (on the far left side of the flow).  It has been gaining popularity in recent years as former students of Colorado Mountain School (CMS) ice courses, many of whom are members of the Colorado Mountain Club (CMC), have started bringing big groups to this destination on the weekends.  So be prepared for a very non-wilderness experience if one of these CMC groups has made it to the ice first.   The potential for crowds is now perhaps the biggest drawbacks to this location and so timing can be the key to a safe and enjoyable experience on this WI 2+ classic.

        Jewel Lake Ice in Dec. '07 conditions with the easiest variation of the flow having been led.

There are numerous large enough trees at the top of this flow to facilitate easy anchoring for lead or top-rope climbing and a walk-off to either side of the ice is relatively easy for a descent or top-rope set-up.  Wallowing in deep snow to the top could be the crux of a top-roping day as this treeline area is a big catch for lee drifted snow coming down off of Thatchtop Mountain.  The trees on top typically have multiple slings and metal rings for rappelling purposes.

Avalanche Danger

When we are in the brunt of winter and avalanche danger makes the high country too dangerous, this is one of  the safer location for ice climbing due to the thick, snowpack anchoring forest which sits above this route on the east side of Thatchtop Mountain.  The approach from the Glacier Gorge Trailhead also travels through minimal avalanche danger terrain and only under Extreme avalanche danger would there likely be any issues with traveling to or climbing in this area. 

                          Lars Lofgren in the middle of Mills Lake en route to the Jewel Lake Ice

Location 

Located in the Glacier Gorge, just south of Mills Lake and attached by the creek to it, is the much smaller Jewel Lake.  When standing in the center of Jewel Lake, the ice area can barely be seen to the southwest just a 1/4 mile from Jewel,  just above the valley treetops at the bottom of Thatchtop Mountain.  The top of the blue/green ice sheet is usually visible from the lake.  The path closest to the mountain side is more difficult now with many fallen trees on the ground and so the easiest approach from Jewel is to follow the wintertime trail up the river drainage for a 1/2 mile then head straight west towards the base of Thatchtop and the ice.  Snowshoes are often necessary to avoid very deep postholing on this approach and to more easily travel across the ice covered Mills Lake which is the easiest path to Jewel.

An overview satellite image from the north looking into the Glacier Gorge with the ice area on the west side of the drainage at the base of the east face of Thatchtop Mountain, just south or left of the approach trail to All MIxed Up.

A close-up of Mills and Jewel Lakes in the Glacier Gorge with the approximate location of the Jewel Lake Ice (JLI)

Rescue services will take a while here and contacting "911" resources could be the crux of an adventure gone bad.  Winter conditions can quickly kill an exposed and immobile person, especially one who is bleeding or broken.  Emergency and bivy gear should be considered along with communications equipment in any alpine winter backcountry adventure.  Tell a responsible person where you are going and when you plan to return so that they might initiate a search for you and contact the National Park Service who coordinate all rescues in Rocky Mountain National Park.

P1- 20m up a fat WI-2+  flow to a flat top-out and multiple tree anchors

                                       Lars Lofgren starting up the "standard route" on the Jewel Lake Ice

Rappel off of slung trees with one rope for 20m down the route to the base or easily walk to the north or south from the top of the route down to the base.

Protection 

A standard ice rack should be adequate for this route.  In thinner conditions or doing the other variations may require rock protection.

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