Testing and Review of the Safe Tech Helmet...........................

Metolius has been an important innovator in climbing equipment for the last twenty five years with some of the best cam and nut designs, harnesses, big wall gear, bouldering pads, traning systems and indoor holds, and now protective head gear with the introduction of their Safe Tech Helmet.  Based in Bend, Oregon nearby the Metolius River and the world-class climbing of Smith Rocks, Metolius is owned and staffed by a dedicated group of life-long climbers.

It's hard to believe that all roped climbers don't wear helmets or as John Sherman (inventor of the bouldering V-scale among other feats) recently said, "Give me one good reason not to wear a helmet".  I don't have an excuse and really, neither should you if you like to venture off the ground into the vertical environments and understand that gravity can indeed be cruel. 

Perhaps in the past when helmets were bulky, heavy, hot,  and provided less protection for leader falls was there a potential  argument  against the 'always rule' in regard to helmet use.  But with the  the  Safe Tech Helmet and similar creations now on the market, climbers can  have a helmet that protects for both rockfall and perhaps more importantly, head injuries due to falls on lead or while seconding. 

About the Metolius Safe Tech Helmet

Features:

• The full protection of an EPS liner combined with the durability of a hard ABS shell
• Dual protection from rock fall as well as impacts sustained during a climbing fall
• Headlamp clips for alpine starts and overnight adventures
• Exceptional ventilation
• Eggshell white color stays cool in the sun
• One size fits: 21"- 23.5" (53.5 - 60 cm)
• Weight: 13.4 oz. (380 g)
• UIAA/CE certified
• Web:  Metolius
• Price: $67.95

Metolius Safe Tech Helmet Review

My review time frame for this helmet was two months of  prime climbing season;  June and July in Colorado and Alaska quickly added up to more than 40 days on routes from big-wall to sport and as varied as  Andrology at Jurassic Park and the west face of The Throne (pictured at right) in the Little Switzerland area of Alaska.

Rockfall in Eldorado Canyon and the Little Switzerland are significant issues and in both places I didn't see but first heard the loud 'ding' of a rock hitting me square on top of the helmet.  Although I took a couple of golf ball sized chunks of granite  to the helmet, the impacts seemed minimal as the  shell easily deflected these chunks and there was no visible damage to the ABS plastic exterior which is thicker and  seems more durable than other designs I've used.  Some of these have cracked easily after a small rock hit or a flight to Alaska in my mule bag.

In the past, when  choosing which helmet to wear on a specific route, I would calculate the risks of lead falling vs. falling rocks and choose my headwear based on these key criteria.

The standard and now somewhat antiquated plastic or fiberglass 'shell' helmets with only an interior suspension system are deemed best for rockfall due to the hard shell and interior suspension system's ability to distribute force from objects falling above.

Foam or 'EPS' constructed helmets (similar to bike helmets) are considered best for impacts due to the climber falling or swinging head first into the rock -  potentials that the lead climber are most likely to encounter.  In fact, Metolius states that 80% of climber head injuries are due to climbing falls and 20% to rockfall.  Whether that's an exact number or not is less important then the realization that this is indeed one of our greatest risks in most climbing situations.

The internal adjustment on the top inside of the helmet makes it super easy to get a snug fit, which is key to keeping any helmet on solid in a fall.  There don't seem to be too many catchy parts on the inside of the helmet or chin straps as I only saw one strand of my hair stuck in the top velcro (can't lose that precious stuff!).  The huge warning labels on the inside of the helmet are a bit of a sticky drag as if we didn't know that wearing a helmet acknowledges this as a risky activity- maybe the font could be reduced to the tiny size on our food labels?

Due to the potential nastiness of the upside down fall, one of my favorite design features of this helmet is the low profile back which protects one of the most vulnerable parts of the skull and one of the more likely places to suffer a direct hit in an upside down lead fall.  I wouldn't mind if this went even another inch lower, although I suppose for those short-necked or pack wearing alpinists, a lower rear could prove to be an impediment to good movement.

Perhaps this is more of a summer than a wintertime helmet due to the ample vents that are big enough for a finger or two  to fit through and do indeed keep the breeze flowing free.  Since I typically depend on numerous jacket hoods to keep my head warm in the cold rather than an insulated helmet, and ventilation is key when you're pulling hard, whether it's on ice or rock.this may not be a big consideration.

Now with the Safe Tech Helmet, I'll no longer have to make the choice between  best the best helmet features - I've got one helmet that protects for both of these head  hazards.  This is a light weight, comfortable, close fitting (when adjusted correctly), and very durable helmet for all climbing sports.