The Rab Neutrino Endurance: The Ultimate Down Jacket
Rab Neutrino Endurance
reviewed by Eli Helmuth
When asked during a recent film interview for Elevation Outdoors, "what is your favorite piece of gear?", I didn't hesitate when thinking of the Neutrino Endurance as this down jacket has been my "go to" layer in the high mountains since acquiring it last year.
This high quality down jacket comes at an affordable price and more importantly, a low weight and tiny packability that seems amazing considering how much insulation it holds and the variety of environments this jacket can handle.
With features like an adjustable helmet compatible hood, adjustable cuffs, waterproof zippers, an insulated zipper flap, and a longer cut in back, the Neutrino Endurance has all the features necessary for technical use and the utmost warmth.
But a big part of what makes this insulative jacket so much better than the rest is due to Rab's use of what Pertex calls their Endurance technology which gives this layer a more durable and wind/waterproof outer finish. The Endurance outer fabric incorporates an ultra-thin, air permeable membrane that is both highly breathable, plus water and wind resistant. This layer protects the high quality 800 fill down from the elements to maintain loft and retain warmth.
Since wearing this outer layer for the first time while climbing high altitude volcanoes in the tropical Andes of Ecuador, it's joined me on over 100 days of cold weather use from 20,000' icy peaks, to Alaskan multi-day ski mountaineering trips, and in the frigid mixed climbing locales of my local Rocky Mountain National Park. Durability has not been an issue as the jacket looks great despite falling ice chunks, grabbing tree branches, misplaced ice tools, pack carrying for many miles, plus cooking bacon over a camp stove in AK have barely made a dent in this lightweight armor.
The breathability of this jacket while exercising is noticeable and requires shedding layers less often and just removing or addingthe hood, unzipping, etc is enough to regulate my temperature while climbing. More than most layers, it seems like this one is truly capable of keeping me warm but not hot while performing in these cold and challenging environments. It doesn't hurt that the soft Pertex Quantum inner fabric feels great against the skin which feels nice as this jacket is a key component of my camping pillow system: comfort for the extreme climb and the mountain bedroom.
This has become my absolute favorite outer layer for any outing where temp's are below 30F and when we're heading into the snow covered hills.
Rab Neutrino Endurance
-Pertex Endurance Fabric: 100% windproof, highly water resistant and very breathable at low temperatures
-Hood that fits over helmet w/ interior wire to keep shape
-Three Pockets = 2 hand warmer pockets with YKK water resistant zips and one interior chest pocket
-Cinch cord for a closer fit at the hips
RAB Neutrino Endurance Likes
- Super lightweight and yet durable outer fabric that is highly breathable.
- Water resistant and wind proof makes for a great high mountain belay or climbing jacket.
- Super warm with the highest quality 800 fill down.
- Well fitting hood that works over a helmet or multiple layers
RAB Neutrino Dislikes
- Zipper is English standard which is opposite of a U.S. men's so it takes a little getting used to operating.
- An exterior chest pocket would be nice for sunglasses, etc.
- External cinch cord on the hips gets in the way of harness racking and needs to be tucked-in to stay out of the way.
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