Alaska Range
Alpine Rock Climbing Trip
June 21- 28th, 2010
click on photos to enlarge
We enjoyed another amazing week of camping on the Pika Glacier in the granite wonderland known as "Little Switzerland" due to the impressive spires and large glaciers flowing down and around these often described "Bugaboos of Alaska".
Our climbing team of Eli Helmuth, Dave Reynolds, Jason Mines, and CLG apprentice guide Mike Arnold enjoyed overall great climbing conditions due to ample sunshine and the endless days that make solstice week in Alaska so special. Due to the fact that everyone in the group was leading at least 5.8 trad going into this trip, our goals included swapping leads on multi-pitch alpine routes as well as learning big-wall methods while attempting to open a new route on one of the steeper escarpments in the area.
Throughout this process we encountered every quality of granite (from great to very bad) and mostly good weather with a final storm that kept us an extra day at our comfortable camp on the Pika Glacier. Eli will be returning to this area for two big trips in 2011- check out the details here.
A view from the town of Talkeetna looking westerly across the Susitna River towards the Alaska Range with Denali, Foraker, and Mt. Hunter dominating the sunset skyline at midnight. Photo J.M.
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This 'Big as AK' burger was our dream meal after a full week of alpine climbing in remote Alaska. Jason almost got the whole thing down in one sitting! Photo J.M.
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Our group's total climbing and camping equipment for a week on the glacier- the flight service allows 125# per person before extra baggage fees apply. Photo J.M.
Talkeetna Air Taxi is considered the top flight service in AK and since it was quiet in Talkeetna during our time there, we had no problem flying in within hours of arriving in town. Photo J.M.
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The log cabin on the Talkeetna airstrip that serves as basecamp for TAT . Photo J.M.
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Looking up from the base of the south-facing routes on the Middle and South (R) Trolls. Photo J.M.
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Looking up the Ruth Glacier from near its toe with the Great Gorge and east face of Denali somewhere out there in the clouds. Photo J.M.
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The north face of the Royal Tower and Italy's Boot (behind) were still holding substantial snow in late June and large sloughing avalanches rolled off of these upper slopes on a regular schedule. Photo J.M.
Eli leading the first pitch of mostly rubble on our ascent of the Middle Troll which we summited on our first day on the glacier. Photo J.M.
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Approaching the Throne while navigating around a monster crevasse on the Pika Glacier. Photo J.M.
Eli starting up the first pitch of our attempted new route on the west face of The Throne. Photo J.M.
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The Southwest face of the Throne as viewed from our camp on the Pika Glacier. Photo E.H.
Looking up from the base of the west face of The Throne at the myriad crack systems splitting this mostly stellar shield of freshly exposed granite. Photo J.M.
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Mike Arnold sampling some of the first pitch alternatives to our route on the west face of The Throne. Photo J.M.
Dave stemming into the crux pitch (5.10, A2) on The Throne.
Photo J.M.
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Eli leading the first quality pitch (5.7) on our ascent of the Middle Troll. Photo J.M.
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(L) Mike seconding a pitch on the Middle Troll as the steam from the glacier fills-in our horizon with clouds.
(R) Mike and Dave transitioning from boots to rock shoes for the second half of our ascent of the Middle Troll. Photos J.M. 
Dave powering through the 5.10 crux of the third pitch on the west face of The Throne. Photo J.M.
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(L) Jason stretching out at 9pm on the summit of the Middle Troll.
(R) Mike starting to dig out the cook tent on the Pika Glacier. Photos J.M.
Dave jugging up a fixed line on the silver granite at the base of the west face of the Throne.
Photos C.B.
 
(L) Eli on lead on the first rubble pitches on the South Troll.
(R) Dave resting in camp after another full day of Alaskan alpine climbing.
Photos J.M.
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A view from the Throne of Crown Jewel Peak and our basecamp in the shadows below. Photo J.M.
The Trolls shine in the afternoon light above basecamp on the Pika Glacier. Photo J.M.
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Eli Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides has been leading safe and successful trips in Denali National Park yearly since 1994. These trips have included multiple summits of Denali via the complete West Rib and W. Buttress, on the Moose's Tooth, and on more than 17 alpine training courses and ski mountaineering expeditions on numerous glaciers and peaks throughout North America's greatest mountain range.
Please call with inquiries or to book your next backcountry skiing, mountaineering, or rock climbing trip:
970.744.4898 or contact us at:
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Eli Helmuth is an AMGA certified Rock, Alpine, and Ski Mountaineering Guide and IFMGA/UIAGM Licensed Mountain Guide.
ClimbingLife Guides is an authorized and insured permittee of Rocky Mountain National Park, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Denali National Park and Preserve, and the Boulder Mountain Open Space.
www.guide.climbinglife.com
© ClimbingLife Guides, 2010. All Rights Reserved.
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