Highlights from the AMGA Advanced Alpine Guide's Course, North Cascades, September, 2004.

The American Mountain Guides Association conducts training courses (usually 10 days in length) and examinations for climbing guides seeking certification in either rock, alpine, or ski mountaineering.   I have been teaching these courses since 1998 in both the North Cascades and Canadian Rockies for the AMGA and I return to the Cascades each fall to put in many huge days in the mountains with fellow guides from around the U.S.

The northwest face of Mount Baker, the northern most volcano in the lower 48 states is an awesome peak in typical Sept. conditions  The Coleman Headwall route that we climbed is the obvious icefall on the right side of this face and in these conditions, is approx. 2,500' vertical of frontpointing from 40 to 90 degrees in steepness.

Sometimes getting through a complicated glacial system can be the crux of an autumn, Cascadian approach.

                  A close-up of the Coleman Headwall route in typical September conditions.

Mt. Shuksan, just north of Mt. Baker, is one of the biggest and most aesthetic non-volcanic peaks in the lower 48, and our climb of the North Face route in autumn conditions is a real Cascadian classic.  This lone mountain is larger than the entire Teton range!

On the final bit of the approach to the North Face of Mount Shuksan, hiking off-trail through huckleberry paradise!

The bivy site for our climb of the North Face of Mt. Shuksan is just at the sun/shadow line below and here Joe Stock sinks his tools on one of the crux alpine ice (Grade 2) pitches of the route.

Joe takes the lead on the second of three long pitches that take one through the alpine ice section of the route.

                              Climbing mixed ground below the summit pyramid of Mount Shuksan

   The start of the famous "Beckey Route" up Liberty Bell spire at Washington Pass

      The late, great Christine Boskoff descending Cutthroat Peak in the Washington Pass area

      The tricky and sustained east ridge of Forbidden Peak in the central section of the North Cascades

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