The Ptarmigan Fingers describes the numerous couloirs which evenly split the 1000' high rock ribs of the north face of Flattop Mountain.  This couloir climbers' treasure trove of steep snow and solid alpine rock routes reside in a quiet yet close to the road location, only three miles from the popular Bear Lake trailhead.

Ptarmigan Fingers, many routes w/ no names

Grade II to III and from 45 degree snow to M2

                                       The Ptarmigan Fingers from the east near Lake Helene

The Ptarmigan Fingers on the north face of Flattop Mountain contain the highest concentration of interesting couloirs interspersed with solid rock and sometimes water ice to make for an ideal spring and early summer climbing destination.  Finishing the final pitch of steep snow or rock to find a flat and broad summit plateau adjacent to the Continental Divide at over 12,300' in elevation and a potentially easy stroll back to the car, makes for a user friendly alpine combination. 

With their relatively high altitude and northern aspect, these couloirs are usually some of the last in RMNP to lose their winter coat of snow and so couloir climbing with some alpine ice into late summer is part of the allure of this inviting north face.

             Traversing into the sun near the top of the west-most couloir to reach the ridgecrest.

Location 

The approach to the north face of Flattop Mountain starts at the Bear Lake trailhead at 9450' in the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park where the trail heads north towards Lake Helene in the Ptarmigan Valley.  The Ptarmagin Valley has the Ptarmigan Glacier at it's head and the north face of Flattop and the Ptarmigan Couloirs are on the climber's south side (left) upon reaching Two Rivers Lake at the southeastern entrance to this striking gorge.  Notchtop guards the valley entrance on it's north side (right) with the snow and ice covered east face catching the morning rays of sun.

Approach these routes by climbing the slopes directly above the west end of Lake Helene for a few hundred feet to reach a plateau which melts-out in the spring to reveal an emerald colored tarn of snow melt-off.  The first couloirs to the east rise directly out of this tarn on this left-most shoulder of the Ptarmigan Fingers and the couloirs reveal themselves one by one as you proceed west up this usually snow-filled valley.

Route Information

There are as many routes and potential variations in these couloirs with their various junctions and exits and combined with the adjacent rock buttresses and ephemeral ice,  it seems appropriate to let the alpinist find their own way and create whatever description and difficulty rating as their individual experience allows.

The easiest of these couloirs are often skiable in ideal snow conditions and offer sustained steep and narrow descent paths.  As the couloirs melt-out, alpine ice or thin water ice can be present and combined with some moves on featured gneiss, these can be some of the best mixed moderates of RMNP in the right conditions.   The couloir defining rock ribs on this north face contain cracks on featured and mostly solid gneiss and with up to 50m sustained sections of 5th class rock climbing, those with a bigger rack and an appetite for rock can find great training in a cold location.  Add in a little frozen turf and you've got a classic!

When these couloirs are combined with the adjacent mixed terrain, good moderate mixed routes can be pieced together and a few laps up this 300 meter high face are perfect training for other classic alpine routes in the Alps, Canadian Rockies, Tetons, or North Cascades.

    Leaving the main couloir for some steeper snow on a northeast aspect catching the early morning light.

Descent

An easier walk-off does not exist in Rocky Mountain National Park than the Flattop Mountain trail.  This trail can be covered with snow for much of the year and so a map and gps could be necessary in white-out winter conditions.  When the snow is gone and there is great visibility, a well marked trail with up to 5' high rock cairns built every 200' along the center of this 1/2 mile wide plateau takes you either east or west.  Heading east on the trail will take you down to the junction where the trail to Lake Helene continues to the east or following the signs back to Bear Lake should have you from summit to car in a little under 2 hours.

     Couloir #5 on the above topo holds some of the best mixed climbing on it's right (west) side.

Warning:  Ravens and marmots in this cirque will attempt to eat all of your food, pack contents, and approach shoes if allowed.  Either carrying everything up the route with you or hanging packs upside down well off the ground and super-sealed may keep the beasts at bay. 

Equipment

For the more difficult variations, a standard rock rack with doubles of all sizes up to a #2 camalot should be sufficient.  At least a dozen shoulder length slings to reduce rope-drag and a few quick draws would be helpful.  One single 60 meter rope should be plenty if you don't plan on doing any rappelling.