Ecuador November 2011 Private Expedition Report

with ascents of:

Rucu Pichincha (15,340′) & Antisana (18,875′)

Steve Klein
w/ Eli Helmuth and Alejo Lazzati of ClimbingLife Guides
and support by Mateo Madrinan.

Eli is returning to Quito on Dec. 3rd, 2011 with Alejo and a small group of climbers to attempt a few of the more challenging volcanoes. Our 10 day itinerary will focus on climbs of Rucu Pichincha, Antisana, and Chimborazo.  

This itinerary will include hotel, tent, and hut lodging as we tour with Eli and Alejo across the central Andes between the cities of Quito and Banos.  Our team’s  biggest goal will be an ascent of Chimborazo, the furthest point from the center of the earth and an elusive 20,565′ summit.

We have space for one more climber if you are qualified and interested in this itinerary, contact us:  guide@climbinglife.com and check-out the trip information at ClimbingLife Guides.    It’s not too late to explore the Andes this year with a competent climbing team and two of the most experienced Ecuadorian guides.

Rising up the Telepherico from basecamp in our hotel in nearby (15 minutes) downtown Quito.

A close-up of the paramo grasses which cover much of the landscape above 13,000′ in the highlands of Ecuador.

Volcan Cayambe, just 40 miles to the northeast as viewed from Rucu Pichincha.

Blooming chuquiraga flowers (flower of the Andes) on the slopes of the Pichinchas.

A portrait by Eduardo Guayasamin, South America’s most prestigious painter and the creator of the Capilla de Hombre in Quito.

Strange club moss (lycopodium crassum) alpine plants that thrive between 13 – 15,000′ in the alpine tundra of the tropics.

Heading up to Antisana basecamp  (14,800′) for a week in our fully loaded Toyota Landscruiser.

The pristine basecamp at 15,000′ for Antisana, the fourth highest volcano in Ecuador and the least climbed due to lack of huts and regularly climbed routes.

The view from basecamp of nearby Cotopaxi, one of the highest active volcanoes on the planet at 19,347′ in elevation.

As the route to the central summit on Antisana had not been climbed in months, Alejo and Eli started moving equipment to high camp immediately upon our arrival and then climbed the peak on our first morning in basecamp to both find the route, assess the crevasse and avalanche risks, and mark the path for our second ascent with Steve.

Alejo ferrying loads out of basecamp to our higher camp at 16,200′.

Alejo cruising up the dry glacier snout on our way to the summit on our first morning in basecamp.  Cotopaxi volcano, just 20 miles to the south, rises above the paramo.

The Central and South summits (L-R) of Antisana on the morning of our second day in basecamp.

Our route up the mountain roughly followed the moraine crest at right to the snout of the dry glacier, up to near the saddle of the two peaks, and then left to gain the south ridge of the central summit.  Alejo and Eli made this climb from basecamp in 5 hrs to the summit while taking time to find the route, mark hazards, enter gps waypoints, and dig-out a high camp above the firn line of the glacier.

Although the route is very climbable from basecamp, we chose to make a higher camp to increase Steve’s acclimatization and potential for summiting, which paid-off with a smooth summit day despite almost white-out conditions causing low visibility.

Alejo and Eli had been on Antisana many times over the last few decades and this was by far the best weather either of us had ever experienced on this often cloud covered volcano.  The technical, multi-pitch ice routes to the south summit and the easiest line up the central summit were all in perfect neve and alpine ice conditions.  Eli spent a total of a month in Ecuador and with only one day of rain in this time, it was an ideal moon for alpine climbing.

Two views of Cotopaxi from highcamp on Antisana- the regular routes on this most climbed peak in Ecuador roughly follows the right-hand skyline.

Highcamp at 16,000′ was chosen for it’s protection from seracs high on the peak.  Being protected from the potential winds was a bonus and the adjacent ice climbing a huge perk for training and acclimatizing in camp.

Alejo in the kitchen/bedroom/office space at high camp and Eli enjoying some ice cragging at 16k.

The view from high camp of the central summit of Antisana at sunset.

(L) A large crevasse with an ash layer showing black about 15m below the surface, likely the result of the most recent eruptions of Guagua Pichincha in 2001.

(R)  Alejo leading the way around the ice cliffs and seracs that guard the central summit plateau.

(L) Alejo cresting a ridge with a recently released D2, R2-3 slab on a ridge of the south summit, above an unsupported slope.   (R) 30-50cm slab release (new snow and wind) and point release (recent heat) avalanche activity on a lee slope of the north ridge of the south summit of Antisana.

This fourth highest volcano in Ecuador is known for having more avalanche deaths and crevasse risks than the other principal peaks of Ecuador.  There was evidence of widespread slab avi activity (30cm deep) from the most recent snowfall in late October.  This slope pictured, was clearly unsupported due to the large bergschrund crevasse at its base and with some lee loaded from the prevailing east to west winds at this elevation (17,000+), and a prime suspect with slope angles in the upper 30’s to low 40’s.

(L) Below the summit plateau.  (R) On the final south ridge of Antisana, central summit.

Eli, Steve, and Alejo on the central summit of Antisana. (R) Eli taking a sandwich break at 18,000′ on an overcast but relatively calm summit day the first time up.