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September 6th Conditions Report |
Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley. Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.
Chasm Lake on August 31st, 2007
Warning:
Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains. Climbing is dangerous. Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst. Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment. We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.
September 13th Update-
Little has changed in the last week in the high country so I am just offering this quick update on what might be different. Sunday and Monday's storm although very wet and cold in the Front Range, left very little precipitation on the high peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park and by Monday afternoon the sun was again shining in the Estes Valley showing no more than an inch of icy precip. accumulated on only the highest elevations (above 13,500') on Longs and Mt. Meeker. Tuesday and wednesday were likely the nicest days of the year thus far with perfect 80F temp.'s and not a cloud in the sky. The storm did leave some verglas on the Keyhole and North Face routes on Longs and some of this has remained throughout this week, so crampons may not be a bad idea for a weekend ascent of either of these two routes but otherwise we are expecting stellar weather all through this weekend. I will be on the Diamond on Friday and Saturday and will update Longs Peak conditions during the weekend. Enjoy!
September 6th Conditions Report
The elk have started the rut and the sounds of bugling bulls are in stark contrast to the calm nights we are currently experiencing. These are our last few precious weeks before the winds of winter start-up again and soon the aspen will be showing their golden leaves. Yesterday saw some fresh snow form on the upper flanks of Longs Peak and this morning's temperature of 45 degrees at 8,700' would indicate cold enough temp.'s up high for ice to be forming.
The last pitch on "Fantasy Ridge" (9) Lumpy Ridge, CO
Ice has started forming again on the upper flanks of the highest peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park and soon we will be in full-blown alpine ice climbing season which also overlaps with prime Lumpy Ridge season. Lumpy Ridge is often at peak form in the fall when the thunderstorm activity decreases and the south-facing cliffs become less hot but more sticky as lower temperatures equate to stickier conditions.
The Lambslide Couloir on August 31st, 2007 - almost gone!
The snow couloirs and remnant glaciers are mostly snow free and the Lambslide, Taylor, Tyndall and Ptarmagin ice fields are showing mostly black ice. With plenty of rain to lubricate their release and warmer temperatures to contribute to the melting process, there are many more rock slides and falling rocks releasing in the mountains and until everything is frozen and well covered with snow these areas and similar slopes would best be avoided to stay clear of this very objective hazard.
Rick Anderson on pitch 1 of the "Yellow Wall" (10+) on the Diamond. Longs Peak
Rick Anderson leading pitch 2 on the "Yellow Wall", Longs Peak
The Casual Route on the Diamond is still a bit wet from the snow last week along with many afternoon rain and hail events which leave especially the routes D1 and the Casual very wet in spots. Despite the moisture, the Yellow Wall, D7, and Obelisk routes are mostly dry and it is still warm enough up there to get some climbing done in warmer conditions than will soon be gripping these shady faces. Bringing extra chalk for the wet sections can make a big difference in the hand grips on this very steep cliff.
Water draining down the lower east slabs and upper Diamond Face on Longs Peak, 8/31/07
Chasm Lake and Peacock sitting below the east face of Longs Peak
This upcoming weekend is the annual Scottish-Irish festival in Estes Park and this party of large kilted people is almost always a cold and somewhat wet affair so that is the prediction for this weekend and I hope that I am wrong.
Pitch 7 on the Yellow Wall- last pitch of the "Casual Route" (10)
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