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September 21st Conditions Report |
Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley. Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.
On the summit of Longs Peak on Sept. 20th, 2007
Warning:
Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains. Climbing is dangerous. Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst. Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment. We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.
September 21st Conditions Report
A significant snow event occured on Sunday night/ Monday morning (9/17) in the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park, primarily in the Longs Peak and Glacier Gorge cirques where up to 6 inches of dense white moisture accumulated on the colder, north-facing aspects above 12,000'.
Longs Peak and Mount Meeker on September 19th, 2007
Yesterday (9/20), we made an ascent of the NF of Longs and found quality ice climbing (thin in sections) for the entire crux pitch with patchy snow and ice above which was linkable to the summit. The snow covering that had reached all the way down to the boulderfield earlier in the week was mostly melted out until reaching the Chasm View area. Above here, the corners and cracks were snow and ice filled and conditions were perfect for moderate mixed climbing in a spectacular setting.
The North Face of Longs Peak on Sept. 20th, 2007
Looking down from the summit of Longs, the North Face of Mt. Meeker, Pagoda Peak, and Chiefshead were plastered in snow and ice and much of it looked climbable for those with abilities on thin, steep ice! The Trough Couloir was about 50% covered in snow but the rest of the Keyhole route including the Homestretch was dry as since Monday, we have been experiencing temperatures in Estes in the mid-70's and with little to no cloud cover, the warmer aspects have been drying out quickly.
Looking across at the North Face of Mount Meeker on Sept. 20th, 2007
The "Casual Route" on the Diamond has snow and ice in spots but the other routes left of it on the Yellow Wall look mostly dry and the North Chimney is about half dry. The "Dreamweaver" couloir on Mt. Meeker actually looks somewhat filled-in and would likely produce an enjoyable if somewhat challenging mixed route in these conditions. The Lambslide is still showing much exposed black ice and although the colder conditions will make it significantly safer from falling rock, an early start and quick movement would be key to avoiding the potential dangers of rocks dislodging due to the mid-day heat. Ice screws and sharp crampons will be necessary to adequately protect this icy slope. Kiener's is about half snow covered (up to 6 inches) and is now in an enjoyable "mixed state".
Looking down on upper Kiener's and the Notch Couloir on Sept. 20th
Other RMNP peaks including Ypsilon, Fairchild, Hallett and Notchtop look completely dry and so the alpine rock season is not over yet and the Petit, Saber, Spearhead, and even Hallett are very climbable at the moment.
Looking at the south face and Blitzen Ridge on Mt. Ypsilon from the summit of Longs on Sept. 20th
Looking down at the dry east face of Spearhead on Sept. 20th
Lumpy Ridge is still in prime shape and the cooler temperatures and lack of thunderstorm activity are producing very "positive" conditions as cooler rock means stickier conditions for the climbing shoe rubber which is key to success on Lumpy's "friction- style" granite.
The big elk are bugling day and night in the valley and driver's at night should be aware that elk are hanging out on the lower elevation roads and during the rut, could care less about car bumpers than the call of the wild- so drive a bit slower and with care, especially through Moraine Park and up to the Longs Peak trailhead as these are prime elk hang-outs. The golf course in Estes is currently home to many of the biggest bulls as they have laid claim to this prime real estate where the grass is greener and the Big Thompson river provides a cool spot as the rut "heats up".
This weekend is the annual "Fall Festival" in Estes (we can always find a reason to party up here in mountain paradise) and so beer, brats, and music are available near downtown to fill-out your weekend climbing or hiking festivities.
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