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September 17th Conditions Report |
Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley. Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.
The east ridge of Mt. Meeker on the evening of September 15th, 2007
Warning:
Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains. Climbing is dangerous. Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst. Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment. We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.
September 17th Conditions Report
September is the transition season in the high peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park and although temperatures will remain mild in the Estes Park Valley through mid-October, in the high peaks it is the beginning of winter. Last night and this morning we received heavy rains in the region and above 12,000' between 3 and 6 inches of fresh snow stuck to the ground, primarily from Trailridge road south to Longs Peak. Although much of this snow will melt-off in the ensuing weeks, likely a fair bit will remain and now the mixed climbing season is here for routes like Kiener's and the North Face of Longs, and on McHenry's and Taylor Peaks.
Longs Peak after the storm breaks on the morning of September 17th, 2007
The aspen leaves are starting their change into golden colors at the higher elevations and the ice is already forming on the upper flanks of Longs, Mt. Meeker and on the other higher elevation peaks where recent snowmelt and below freezing temperatures at night are bringing our autumn ice season into what could be a banner year.
A close-up of the North Face route on Longs Peak (AKA Cables Route) on the afternoon of Sept. 14th
September ice forming on the seldom climbed Ev's Chimney just right of the North Face route
This weekend, Doug Barker and I spent 2 days and a night "hanging-out" on the Diamond Face of Longs Peak and with our comfy Black Diamond portaledge and storm-fly, we survived a stormy night lashed to one of the steepest alpine rock walls in North America. Numerous lightning, hail, and snow storms made for a fitfull sleep, but we were dry and warm as the new sun of Sept. 15th greeted us in our exposed bivy.
"Technical camping" on the D-7 route, the Diamond
Doug Barker waking-up to sunshine after a stormy night on the Diamond
We managed to get partway up D-7 despite a couple of violent snow and lightning storms during the day and it was a great time to practice Alaskan style big-wall climbing except that we were on the finest granite versus the common "kitty litter" type rock often encountered in the Alaskan Ranges.
Doug C-1 aiding on the D-7 route of the Diamond
A moment of sunshine on an otherwise tumultuous day
Doug cleaning the fourth pitch with our haul bag hanging down below
The Lambslide is still a dirty mess and maybe the recent snow last night layed down the first layer of many which will be necessary to re-cement the many rocks back in place which have been tumbling down this access couloir to many Longs Peak routes including Kieners and Alexander's Chimney. We saw and heard even more rockfall coming from between the Lambslide and the Flying Dutchman Couloir, ice falling off the Casual Route and from Table Ledge, and overall it was a noisy day and night of falling objects, all of which stayed very clear of our tenuous position on this intimidating aspect of Rocky Mountain National Park's most infamous peak.
The Lambslide Couloir and the remaining exposed ice of the Mills "Glacier" at the base of the east face of Longs
Although the ice is starting to get thick on the North Face of Longs and the Keyhole Route, the lower elevation ice of Alexander's, the Smear of Fear and the other lower east face "slab" routes have only water flowing in these spots which should form soon the ice that so many of us look forward to sinking our picks into in the months to come.
The Lower East Face of Longs Peak with water flowing down what may become the "Smear of Fear", "Crazy Train", and "Wrecking Ball" in the weeks to come
It was in the early days of October 1999 that Topher Donahue, Simon Fryer and I found perfect ice conditions on the north face of Chiefshead Peak to establish the FA of what we alternately called "The Headdress" or "Chickens on Ice" which is a 6 pitch mixed route that starts below and right of the summertime rock route "Birds of Fire" and stays right of that route to just below the upper ledges where both routes naturally culminate. This could be another banner ice year like '99 if the weather continues as it has thus far this autumn.
Otherwise, Lumpy Ridge and the many numerous crags of the Estes Valley are in prime shape as cooler rock is stickier rock, and this weekend more than a few keen Lumpy climbers were pushing their limits on the crystally granite that so many of us adore.
The elk are again filling the Estes Valley during this prime mating season "The Rut" and caution should be taken when the big bulls are chasing their cows as they don't like much competition and will gladly give you a horn or two in the chest if you get too close to them during their favorite time of the year!
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