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Ice climbing and avalanche conditions for the more popular ice routes and ski descents in Rocky Mountain National Park are updated regularly by Eli Helmuth; Estes Park resident, IFMGA licensed mountain guide, AIARE trained avalanche educator, forecaster and head guide of ClimbingLife Guides.
UPDATE: January 8th, 2009
WARNING: All of the south-facing and lower elevation ice climbs in RMNP (especially Jaws and The Squid are currently in a rapid state of decline due to above freezing temperatures at 10k. Check the NIWOT ridge weather station and Bear Lk. snotel sites, (linkable via climbinglife.com weather links) and you'll see it's 45F inside the unheated weather station at almost 12k and above freezing at Br. Lake just below the south-facing Squid.
Colder, north facing mountain sides could be benefiting from the potential snowmelt due to radiation induced melting, but cold, dry snow is tough to melt and at this stage of the game, less likely to for and ice up high. Water flowing on south-facing cliffs could flash freeze this weekend and start some more ice growth if it stays colder but not arctic. Martha's on Mt. Lady could be an exception but likely to hot there at the moment for safer conditions.
I've been in England and Spain for the last few weeks as evidenced by the most recent Dec. 26th conditions report. Remember that conditions change constantly, especially when temperatures are above freezing or it is snowing and blowing heavily and you've got to do your own math.
Currently it's 57 degrees at my house at almost 9kand there is no snow on the ground here or visible on the southeast ridge of Mt. Meeker, 10 miles to the south.
Ice climbing is for winter weather which is due to arrive soon. I'll be in the Tyndall and Chaos Canyons and will update conditions tomorrow night.
| Warning: Ice and avalanche conditions change constantly and the information provided here should not be the final say in making the best decisions in regard to your risk management in the mountains. ClimbingLife, LLC and its contributors accept no liability for your decisions based on this information. Ice and mixed climbing are very dangerous sports and one can easily die or be seriously injured engaging in these activities. Proceed at your own risk. |
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December 26th Conditions for Rocky Mountain National Park:
A deadly snowmobiler avalanche in Utah (view)
on Christmas Eve and an inbounds skier death in California on Christmas (view) should remind us that the backcountry snowpack is still very tender this season and already, there have been six avalanche related fatalities in the last month in the western United States.
Ice climbs that are more avalanche prone such as the West Gully at Black Lake, the East Face of Notchtop, and the Loft Ice and Flying Dutchman in the Longs Peak/Meeker Cirque should be treated suspect if not completely avoided.
The east face of Notchtop should absolutely be avoided for the remainder of the winter season unless we have a very unique change in conditions that would increase stability on these avalanche prone slopes.
Ice routes like the Guides Wall, Hot Doggies, and Grace Falls are also in the potential slide paths of this face and they too should be treated suspect.
The south-facing hillsides seem to be doing the best in terms of ice formation and so areas like Jaws, the Crypt, Squid, and Guides Wall are seeing the most growth recently and there is hope for a decent ice season this winter.
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| Date |
Snow Water
Equivalent
(inches) |
Snow
Depth
(inches) |
Year-to-Date
Precipitation
( inches) |
Current
Temp
(degrees F) |
Previous Day's Temp
(degrees F) |
| Max |
Min |
Avg |
| 12/20/2008 |
3.2 |
18.8 |
4.0 |
7.7 |
21.9 |
7.7 |
18.5 |
| 12/21/2008 |
3.3 |
19.3 |
4.0 |
4.5 |
7.5 |
0.7 |
3.7 |
| 12/22/2008 |
3.5 |
17.9 |
4.2 |
27.0 |
27.0 |
4.5 |
15.3 |
| 12/23/2008 |
3.7 |
21.1 |
4.3
|
21.6 |
31.3 |
21.4 |
26.8 |
| 12/24/2008 |
3.7 |
20.9 |
4.4 |
6.6 |
21.9 |
6.4 |
13.3 |
| 12/25/2008 |
4.1 |
19.7 |
4.6 |
22.6 |
22.6 |
4.5 |
12.7 |
| 12/26/2008 |
4.2 |
25.3 |
4.7 |
25.3 |
27.9 |
22.5 |
25.7 |
| Date |
Snow Water
Equivalent
(inches) |
Snow
Depth
(inches) |
Year-to-Date
Precipitation
(inches) |
Current
Temp
(degrees F) |
Max |
Min |
Avg |
Previous Day's Temp
(degrees F) |
The south face of Otis Peak with the Zowie and Wowie spires shining. Snowmelt on these south facing walls brings into shape some of the least known and less traveled mixed routes in Rocky Mountain National Park, including the route: Brain Freeze.
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| Current Rocky Mountain National Park ice climbing areas IN shape for the weekend starting 12/26/08:
1. Jaws,
Lower Odessa Gorge.
2. Guide's Wall
Odessa Gorge.
3. Hidden Falls,
Wild Basin.
4. Jewel Lake,
Glacier Gorge.
5. West Gully,
Glacier Gorge.
6. Black Lake Slabs, Glacier Gorge.
7. Columbine Falls, Longs Peak.
8. Timberline Falls,
Loch Vale.
9. The Crypt,
Loch Vale
10. Bits and Pieces...
Loch Vale Ice Area
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The east face of the Cathedral Wall in Rocky Mountain National Park
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The Squid, on the south face of Flattop Mountain exactly one year ago. This year, it is currently forming and getting close if not already to these conditions.
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Mid-pitch on the Squid
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Although there have been a couple of avalanche deaths in Colorado this month, there are always a number of folks in the backcountry who are mentally immune to the risks involved in off-piste skiing and ice climbing. Unfortunately, until they are buried and dead, they will be unlikely to change their tune. A recent conversation at Berthoud Pas, Colorado involving two dudes:
Dud 1: " The snowpack is stable for the most part. Today I was planning on skiing a large hump, completely untouched, steeper than the rest of the pitch. I got on top of it and was nearly swept off."
Dud 2: "Sluff or slab?"
Dud 1: "Slab, 1 1/2 foot crown."
Dud 2: "Fun!" |
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Current Avalanche Danger:
Only a half foot of new snow has been deposited at the Bear Lake trailhead in the last week which corresponds to over a foot of new snow at Emerald Lake (10,200').
Wind scouring on the high ridges and plateaus has been severe on all but the 23rd of December this week, and so there are as many as two to three feet of wind-formed slabs sitting on lee slopes in the alpine zone.
Much of the current danger is especially concentrated near treeline where much of the wind-blown snow is concentrated and signs of instability including cracking and whumping should be paid close attention.
Remember also that trees must be closer than two meters apart for a slope to be 'anchored'. Avalanches can otherwise run in less dense forests.
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Eli Helmuth of ClimbingLife Guides offers backcountry skiing and avalanche seminars that focus on practical skills for minimizing the risks while playing in and around avalanche terrain.
You still have time to take advantage of our 10% discount for being one of the first 25 customers to sign-up for a backcontry seminar. These seminars will help you increase your backcountry skills in order to be smarter, make better decisions, and get out in the hills with a plan to stay alive while taking advantage of the great mid-winter skiing and climbing that Colorado has to offer.
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Route variations on Jaws in similar conditions at the moment.
This south-facing and lower elevation hillside is perhaps the warmest ice formation in Rocky Mountain National Park and so at mid-day even in our current weather regime, the ice can be dangerously soft. In these 'warm' conditions it is easy to climb the ice but ice screws would be almost useless when the ice is soft so early mornings and late afternoon are the shady times at this spot and unless temperatures are cold enough, those are often the best hours for playing on Jaws.
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Photos below are only representative of common conditions, they are not current.
Routes are sorted by current forecast Avalanche Danger Level:
LOW Avalanche Danger
WI 4 |
WI 2-5
M 1-8 |
WI 2+ to 3 |
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|
|
|
|
IN
|
IN
bad year for ice |
IN
|
WI 3-5 |
WI 5 |
Deep Freeze
WI5, M5 |
 |
|
|
|
IN
but wet
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OUTclose to IN |
mostly dry
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CONSIDERABLE Avalanche Danger
Necrophilia
WI 5, M5 |
Crypt
WI-4
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WI 2 |
 |
|
|
|
OUT
totally dry
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IN |
IN 70% |
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Grace Falls
WI 3-4
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NE Gully
Thatchtop
WI- 3
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WI-3
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|
|
|
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IN
WI4+
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IN
(two WI-3 pitches)
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IN
(crux ice thick) |
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Dark Star
WI 4+, M4 |
Hallett's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
Field's Chimney
WI 5, M4 |
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|
|
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OUT
(often IN July) |
OUT
soft snow and
chockstone cruxes
(occasionally IN-
May or June) |
OUT
(mostly dry or
snow covered) |
Alexander's Chimney
WI 4, M4 |
WI 5+, M5
|
M5, WI5
|
|
|
|
OUT
(first two pitches IN,
chockstone and
above dry) |
OUT
not formed
|
OUT
|
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The Window
WI 5, M4
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Vanquished
WI 5, M4
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Hot Doggie
WI 5+ |
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|
|
 |
| OUT |
OUT
(mostly dry) |
OUT
50%
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HIGH Avalanche Danger
WI 3+, M3 |
|
|
IN
(crux 1st pitch
rock slabs)
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| North American avalanche Danger Scale |
Danger Level
(& Color) |
Avalanche Probability and Avalanche Trigger |
Degree and Distribution of Avalanche Danger |
Recommended Action
in the Backcountry |
| ...WHAT... |
...WHY... |
...WHERE... |
...WHAT TO DO... |
LOW(GREEN) |
Natural avalanches very unlikely. Human triggered avalanches unlikely |
Generally stable snow. Isolated areas of instability. |
Travel is generally safe. Normal caution is advised. |
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MODERATE
(YELLOW) |
Natural avalanches unlikely. Human triggered avalanches possible. |
Unstable slabs possible on steep terrain. |
Use caution in steeper terrain and on certain aspects. |
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CONSIDERABLE
(ORANGE) |
Natural avalanches possible. Human triggered avalanches probable. |
Unstable slabs probable on steep terrain. |
Be increasingly cautious in steeper terrain. |
HIGH(RED) |
Natural and human triggered avalanches likely. |
Unstable slabs likely on a variety of aspects and slope angles. |
Travel in avalanche terrain is not recommended. Safest travel on windward ridges and lower angle slopes without steeper terrain above. |
EXTREME(BLACK) |
Widespread natural or human triggered avalanches certain. |
Extremely unstable slabs certain on most aspects and slope angles. Large, destructive avalanches possible. |
Travel in avalanche terrain should be avoided and travel confined to low angle terrain well away from avalanche path run-outs.
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