Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

     The Book on Lumpy Ridge with aspen leaves in peak autumn form

Warning: 

Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.

October 9th Conditions Report  

I might have been premature in declaring last week the "start of winter" in the high peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park as the "Indian Summer" continues to be a warm one and the storm forecast for last weekend did not materialize at all in this area.   So with no new snow and another week of temperatures in the mid-70's in the Estes Valley, we are in no hurry to welcome the cold winds of winter too early.

                                  The east face of Longs Peak at sunrise on October 8th, 2007

Where the sun has been shining up high, the warmth has melted off the snow from two weeks ago and the Petit, Saber, Chasm View Wall, Dragontail Couloirs and other south facing aspects have completely melted out and even the homestretch and narrows sections on Longs which are south and west facing aspects are almost completely devoid of any snow or ice at the moment. 

                          Looking down the "Homestretch" of the Keyhole Route on Elktober 8th, 2007

The one and only Possum and I made an ascent of Kiener's on Monday the 8th, and after an early morning 30-40mph windstorm on the approach, the sky cleared and we enjoyed fantastic fall conditions on one of North America's most classic moderate mountaineering routes.  Lambslide was a mix of soft snow and hard ice and we did two rope stretcher 60m pitches up thin snow and WI-1 terrain to reach the start of the Broadway ledge system.  

           Our first pitch up Lambslide on a thin patch of snow over bullet-proof and dinner-plating water ice

Broadway was covered with about a foot of soft snow and due to the exposure and somewhat slabby conditions of the snow, we pitched out the traverse of Broadway in four rope lengths to reach the start of upper Kiener's. 

                                                   The traverse of Broadway on a beautiful day  

The rock steps were mostly dry with snow patches in sections which made for a few tenuous moves which were well protected with small and medium cams in the excellent granite on this solid mountain. 

                                        The Notch Couloir on Longs on October 8th, 2007

Above the rock steps and "chimneys", Upper Kiener's had loose, knee deep snow in places and then dry rock on the upper half where the sun has been re-exposing the grasses of summer and even a few hopeful flowers were blooming up there.

Walking below the lower east slabs in the morning sun, the Smear of Fear appeared to be in thin but climbable shape for those up to the task.  The Alexander's Chimney ice route was about half formed with the upper crux pitches looking to be completely devoid of ice so climbable for those with solid dry-tooling skills and lots of rock protection.

                               The Smear of Fear with Crazy Train and Wrecking Ball starting to form

We descended the North Face route on Longs which is still in the great mixed shape as it was two weeks ago and avalanche danger on this part of the mountain is currently LOW with the route in excellent mixed conditions.

                                              Possum rappelling the North Face of Longs Peak

From the Chasm View we were able to check-out the Diamond and the North Chimney which is looking pretty snow covered at the moment.  The Yellow Wall is still mostly dry so for those looking for a Patagonia training day, you don't have to look far from home for something as good or perhaps better.

                                            The Diamond Face of Longs Peak on October 8th, 2007

The Boulderfield was completely dry as was the approach trail to the Ranger Cabin below Chasm Lake.  Most of the talus along the south-facing side of Chasm Lake was dry and the route "Martha" on the south face of Mount Lady Washington is totally dry as well.  The Dreamweaver Couloir looked to be pretty filled in with snow, which judging from what we climbed through on Kiener's is likely deep and unconsolidated "powder" which is less than ideal climbing conditions for this more spring-time route.

Looking north from the summit of Longs, it appears that all of the south-facing terrain in the park is pretty dry and the Mummy Range to the far north looked to be mostly dry at the moment.

                     The Mummy Range with Ypsilon and the Blitzen and Donner ridges on the left

Lumpy is still in prime form and hopefully will be for some weeks to come as conditions are perfect and without a cloud in the sky, no threat of thunderstorms, and 70F degree temperatures, this is truly the sweetest time of the year for "getting some lumps" at our favorite close-to-town alpine crags.

                                         A view from the top of the Book on October 5th, 2007

We'll see if this next weekend's forecast storm actually produces any moisture, and if it is a "warm and wet one" we may see more of the ephemeral alpine ice routes such as "Necrophilia", "The Headdress", "Vanquished", "Crazy Train", "Deep Freeze" and even "Womb with a View" come into prime shape.

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