Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

        The Diamond in typical winter conditions

Warning: 

Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.

October 5th Conditions Report  

Winter has officially arrived in the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park as the lower elevation rock faces of Hallett and the Notchtop were plastered with new snow on Monday and some of the classic winter alpine routes such as the east face of Notchtop are now in great fall form.

                            The Homestretch on Longs Peak before the last storm

The hike into the Boulderfield or Chasm Lake on Longs Peak should still be 95% snow free along the trail although this weekend's forecast storm could change that percentage in just a couple of hours.  This week's 70 degree and relatively calm in Estes and along the Front Range has continued to melt-off the new snows on the sunnier aspects.

Ice remains on the North Face and Notchtop Couloir on Longs and some of the classic ice and mixed routes on the lower east face such as the Smear of Fear and Alexander's Chimney are probably only a week away from being climbable depending on what this weekend's winter storm brings to the peaks.

                The east face of Notchtop showing one variation of the route in typical autumn conditions

The snowfall on Monday reached elevations as low as 10,000' and much of Hallett and Flattop Mountains were snow covered by Tuesday morning and the Trailridge road which crosses the Continental Divide was closed from Monday to Wednesday this week due to the new snow which park personnel described as "5 foot deep drifts in places".  It is almost looking skiable again on the east face of the Ptarmagin Headwall and the Tyndall and Ptarmagin Glaciers now have a full coating of snow on them to cover the exposed black ice that was previously showing.

Notchtop with the west face in shadow, south arete on the sun/shadow line, and spiral route starting from left to right into the snow-covered ledge then wrapping back around to the notch in the peak.

                                   Mixed conditions on the "Spiral Route" on Notchtop Spire 9/07

Lumpy Ridge is still in prime climbing shape and more than a few parties have been taking advantage of this stellar autumn weather to get in some of the most classic granite rock climbing in the region.  The weather forecast for this weekend looks very stormy on Sunday and so the lower canyons will be better choices then unless you are looking for some potential white-out training? 

       Climbing on the very warm "Industrial Wall" on a cold day, Mickey Mouse, Boulder CO

The elk are in the middle of their rut and with the fall colors now hitting their peak in the Estes Valley, autumn could be no sweeter.

For those of us inclined to hang out on frozen walls of water it is time to start sharpening those tools and crampons as this weekend's forecast storm could bring some of the early season ice into top form and as it is usually a short window for some of the alpine classics. Having a good excuse to skip work this next week might be helpful in getting in a route or two.  This quick moving cold front is predicted to be cleared out by Monday with alpine ice season possibly coming-in as a result of the colder temperatures and precipitation.  The likely spots for alpine mixed routes will be the north face of Meeker, east and north faces of Longs, east faces of Pagoda, Chiefshead, and McHenry's, the east and north faces of Thatchtop and the east face of Notchtop. Bring lots of rock gear including some pitons for most of these lines.   Ultimately,  it will depend on the right combination of  temperature and moisture along with surface temperatures and humidity to form enough ice in some or all oof these cold spots.

If the weather allows, Possum and I will be climbing the route Kiener's on the east face of Longs on Monday and I will report on what we see and find along our travels.  Have a great weekend!

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