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October 26th Conditions Report |
Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley. Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.
Warning: Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains. Climbing is dangerous. Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst. Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment. We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.
October 26th, 2007
It can't possibly get any sweeter than this last week has been in Estes Park with temperatures coming close to 80F and with no clouds or wind, it's been unbelievably perfect.
Lumpy Ridge has been pretty empty all week and it's a shame as conditions couldn't be any better with 10% humidity, no wind, and no threat of storms- this is the perfect season for getting some "lumps".
The late October heat wave has no doubt been helping the formation of ice in the park as temperatures in the mid-70's in Estes mean temperatures in the 40's or low 50's above 12,000' on Longs so the snow up there is melting slowly and feeding the formation of ice.
On south-facing slopes down low, the heat has probably done too much damage to some classics like "Calamari" or "Jaws" which were forming nicely last week but may have fallen down by now.
Mixing it up on the east face of Taylor Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park
The heat this time of year is also good for strengthening the snowpack, so the avalanche danger is overall MODERATE above treeline with a few pockets of CONSIDERABLE in some of the colder and more lee-loaded areas such as the Ptarmagin Fingers on Flattop where numerous small crowns were evident this last week due to natural slab avalanche releases on these steeper slopes.
So except for a couple of colder spots in the park, the ice climbing should probably best be put on hold until temperatures start to dip below freezing again. Tomorrow's expected quick-moving cold front will help a bit but it is expected to be a short burst and likely won't help enough. Next week is forecast to be a bit cooler but we are still expecting temperatures in the 60's in Estes again- maybe another good cold snap/storm by early November could set-up many routes for "prime shape".
Steve nearing the summit of Longs Peak after a great climb of Kieners on the east face
Otherwise, the Lambslide Couloir, Tyndall, and Ptarmagin Glaciers are skiable at the moment with pretty nice powder if you're willing to walk your (rock) skis in some distance.
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