Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

Warning:  Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.  

November 1st,  2007   

There's no doubt that the one day storm on Halloween was helpful for the formation of ice in the high country of Rocky Mountain National Park as this storm laid down yet another layer of winter white.

                                                Sunrise on the Diamond in late October, 2007

Trail conditions above treeline yesterday were mostly firm snow, sections of ice, and many exposed rocks plus an additional 3-4 inches of fresh fluff mixed with graupel that fell throughout the day.  Winds were light during the day, but judging from the amount of bare ground on the North Face of Longs Peak this morning, even the moderate winds were able to move much of this new material to the east.

                              Shari Wolkan at 11,000' on Flattop Mountain on Halloween                               

As a result, there has been some significant wind loading that occurred during the night, and routes like the Y-Couloir on Ypsilon and the Lambslide Couloir on Longs will have accumulated up to a foot or more of this wind deposited snow.  Therefore, avalanche danger on the above-treeline slopes, primarily in the easterly aspects (SE,E, NE) will be the pockets of CONSIDERABLE danger:  A human-caused slab avalanche is probable. 

                                          The cornice above the Corral Couloir on 10/31/07

Other "HOT" spots - areas of CONSIDERABLE avalanche danger,  would be the east-facing glaciers (Tyndall, Ptarmagin, Andrews) and potentially some lee-loaded areas which would include S and N facing couloirs above treeline.   Slabs with some tension and cracking have been experienced since this Halloween storm and so anyone climbing on snow greater than 30 degrees in angle should assess carefully the judgment of traveling in this terrain.

                                      Andy drytooling on the south face of Flattop Mountain

We used snowshoes to travel up to the Continental Divide yesterday and they were very helpful as the new snow was already drifting in spots and we would have otherwise been post-holing up to our knees in a few locations.

The East Face of Notchtop was looking in prime shape yesterday and autumn is one of the best times for an ascent of this typically very avalanche prone route, as the minimal snowpack this time of year combined with warmer temperatures help to keep the current avi risk somewhat manageable.  This whole aspect of Notchtop would best be avoided in typical mid-winter conditions or when temperatures are above freezing as any avalanche debris funnel directly into this climbing route.

                                                   The east face of Notchtop on 10/31/07

All Mixed Up was also looking good this week and I would only be super concerned if we get another "heat wave" in the high country which might warm-up routes like AMU too much to be safely ascended.  The Squid and Calamari ice climbs suffered the fate of the heat this week although there is enough snow above these routes to potentially feed another round of ice.

Lumpy is dry and with temperatures in the 60's and with no wind, it is still a great time to be getting some "lumps" at our local alpine cragging destination.  This is turning into a long "summer season", but who's complaining?

                                         Hallett's North Buttress and the Tyndall Gorge on Halloween

Reports are that Kieners is getting a bit drifted-in on the Broadway traverse especially around the Notch Couloir and above the rock "chimneys" where there is usually some deep snow due to sloughing from above on this face just left of the Diamond.  Dreamweaver is in its typical dry-tooling and soft-snow conditions and the Loft is apparently still in reasonable condition for access up or off of these two biggest peaks in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Enjoy, be responsible, and stay safe!

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