Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

Warning:  Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.  

November 15th,  2007    

Since last week's report, we have had less than an inch of new moisture in the peaks and although temperatures have dropped approx. 10F this week, it is still hitting the 60's in the Estes Valley at 7500' and so temperatures at 11,000' where the ice climbing starts is still above freezing during the daytime.  In many locations his has been good news for the formation of ice, even though we are having to wait longer for  routes to come into shape as many are too fragile and wet to be climbed without ruining them for the winter.   Overall, the warmer temperatures seem to be helping the ice formation in many locations and it's looking like December could be our peak month for ice climbing this year. 

                          The approaching storm over the Front Range on Nov. 15th, 2007

Many of the trail systems above 9,000' that were previously ice covered have been melting down some during the daytime and with negligible new moisture, many of the south and west aspects are drying out completely and there is more dry ground than not above treeline then there was a month ago. 

                                       The north face of Mount Meeker in mid-November

The heat, especially on the warmer aspects and lower elevations has been doing more damage than good to the many classic ice routes such as "Jaws",  "Hidden Falls", and "The Squid" that don't do as well when it's warm and all are in poor shape at the moment.  Significant snow is also necessary to feed their needs as a lack of runoff is limiting the supply of water. 

Believe it or not,  Lumpy Ridge is still in peak form these days and if the weather is a bit cool on any given day, it's a short drive down the hill to the hotspots of Eldorado and Boulder Canyon's or even the nearby Combat Rock which is some of the best local granite and where it is typically 15 degrees warmer then the  Estes Valley. 

The snowpack is unfortunately suffering due to the heat and most south aspects are dry as high as 11,000' and what little snow we've received yet this winter has been blown off of the exposed surfaces above treeline.  It is almost possible to walk all of the way to Black Lake in sneakers in the current conditions. 

The descent of the Loft through the traverse section on the east side is very ice coated at the moment and considerable care should be taken here as this has been the site of deadly slips in the recent past as water ice covers sections of this traverse and with a 400' cliff below this narrow ledge, a slip may not be recoverable.

                           Nathan out from Hawaii for a bit of moderate ice cimbing in the Loch Vale

In addition to the great ice climbing available in Alexander's Chimney, in the West Gully and on All Mixed Up, there are some easy ice routes in shape at the Loch Vale area and we are still giving the steeper curtains and mixed routes some more time to get fully formed before giving them a good bashing.  Climbing on the barely-formed curtains will likely rip them down and ruin what could be an outstanding season for thick ice in the Loch Vale this winter.

                                              Climbing on "Mixed Emotions" on Nov. 13th, 2007

In regard to the current avalanche danger fprecast for RMNP;  there are still a few pockets of potential instability on the highest lee-facing slopes, likely at a MODERATE level of danger in those high and cold pockets (east and northeast) where there is up to a meter of unstable, faceted snow in locations.  Otherwise, avalanche danger is LOW on south and west facing slopes at all elevations. 

                                            The Lambslide and Broadway in mid-November, 2007

Chasm Lake was successfully crossed last week on the new ice which has just formed- but be careful as there is just barely enough ice here for a safe passage and so a traverse of the northern slopes above the lake could be well-advised.  Lambslide is partially snow covered due to some melt-off and wind affect and so ice screws may again be necessary for accessing Broadway for an ascent of Kieners or other east face routes. 

                                                 Sunset over the Front Range on Nov. 15th, 2007                                        

Enjoy and be safe!

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