Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley of Colorado.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

Warning:  Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.  

May 2nd, 2008     

It's a hurricane outside as current wind speeds in the high peaks of RMNP are off the charts- literally, as peak gusts are exceeding 70mph with averages well above 60mph.  Remember that 64mph is the minimum speed for hurricane-force winds and we are well within that margin at the moment.  Hopefully the immediate forecast for calmer skies and sunshine will be realized and all of the weekend warriors can have a respite from the too-stormy weather that has plagued us for much of this winter and spring seasons thus far in 2008.

    Average and peak wind speeds at the Niwot Ridge Meteorological Station just south of Longs Peak.

Although we experienced well above freezing temperatures in the Estes Valley earlier this week with temperatures nearing 80F on the final day of April, the last two days have been a full-on winter storm and here at 8,700' just east of Estes Park, we received 5 inches of new, light-density snow yesterday the 1st of May and in the peaks, steady winds from the west combined with almost constant snowfall to make for full-on winter conditions up high. 

. 

              The west face of Longs Peak on April 26th in the middle of another winter/spring storm system.

The high winds of today will unfortunately make a mess of the perfect powder conditions that covered the high country yesterday and although there may be a few patches of deep powder down in the trees after this storm (the Terrain Park could easily have a foot or more of new powder filling-in between the trees), the above-treeline skiing will be less than ideal until new snow or a corn-snow pattern starts-up.   All of this new, windblown snow will land somewhere, and if not in Missouri or some other location far to the east, most likely it will accumulate below treeline or in the few nooks up high which were protected from the wind.  With up to 6 inches being deposited in the peaks yesterday with another 6 inches predicted today, this foot of new snow could easily add up to multiple feet in these lee spots and combined with the energy of the wind, sensitive pockets of new slabs will be lurking and waiting for a backcountry traveler to trigger their release. 

The north buttress of Hallett Peak in profile with the Tyndall Gorge below and south face of Flattop Mtn. beyond

Overall, above and below treeline, current avalanche danger is rated MODERATE with pockets of CONSIDERABLE danger on lee and cross-loaded aspects both above and below treeline where these wind deposits have accumulated.  Backcountry travelers should be wary traveling below and through avalanche terrain and certain spots such as the Dragontail Couloir and the east face of Notchtop, which were both in excellent condition before this recent storm, could be too dangerous for travel by this weekend.

   Above the crux mixed-bit of the east buttress, north face of Hallett Peak on a recent AMGA alpine training

Lumpy Ridge and Eldorado Canyon have been in prime rock climbing condition for most of these last few weeks, and both of these destination climbing venues have been getting lots of action from local and visiting rock climbers.  The ticks have been busy foraging on climbers and other animals for their blood meals and regular "tick-checks" are recommended to avoid a long-term hanger-on'r.

        The engaging "C'est la Vie" (5.9++) on the Redgarten Wall in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado

Walking into the Hidden Falls yesterday in the Wild Basin area of RMNP, we found a mix of firm and soft trail conditions, and where the old trail was not visible, we often sank to the knee in the warm, isothermal snow that was covering the forest floor.  Up high, where a more active long-wave radiation transfer has been occurring and deeper snow combined with higher winds have made a mostly "bomber" snowpack for walking without flotation into the high peaks and dales of the high country.  The ice was in decent shape at HF although it was somewhat shattery on the surface in spots and the very top of the falls might be a bit skinny for a safe lead; there is still plenty of leadable ice plus easy top-roping in this, one of RMNP's most accessible ice areas to the Front Range.

Descending the Hallett Couloir which sits just east of the first buttress of Hallett Peak's north buttress and separates the main north buttress from its eastern escarpments.

Cornices are beginning to become a threat in the alpine zone as the warm air and extra weight of new snow can combine to bring many of these beasts tumbling down the slopes at their feet and so travel techniques and group management that are focused on mitigating this danger would be appropriate. 

A recent perspective of the north face of Otis Peak and the seldom visited Chaos Glacier which covers the slopes at the western end of this boulder-rich valley.

The alpine snow and mixed routes are slowly coming into good climbing shape with loose, unconsolidated snow at the moment making many of them more of a wallow than a classic climb.  Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker usually forms as a firm snow and ice climb by mid-May and Kieners is typically "opened" by this time of year also as the loose snow of winter begins to consolidate to provide good cramponing conditions in the Lambslide Couloir and across the Broadway Ledge traverse.  

 Chris in the middle of the mixed section of the east buttress, north face of Hallett Peak on 4/26/08.  

The wind and heat have started to consolidate the alpine snowpack somewhat in the last month and their have been excellent cramponing conditions on all aspects of the high country and the classic mixed route Martha along with the east face of Notchtop will be in great climbing shape in the weeks to come before the heat of summer changes this equation.  Once the heat kicks-in, the north and east-facing aspects will firm-up and start to form ice.

  New snow filling in the top of the Hallett Couloir on a descent from the east buttress, north face mixed routes.

If you are interested in a training program in any or all of the climbing and skiing arts, please feel free to contact me at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it to discuss the complete range of techniques practice and itineraries that might best meet your climbing or ski mountaineering goals.   I will be coaching climbers and leading routes throughout Rocky Mountain National Park with the Colorado Mountain School this spring and summer until heading to Nepal in October to lead a CMS expedtion up the classic peaks of Lobuche and Ama Dablam in the Khumbu Region of this enchanting Himalayan Kingdom.

       Wild turkeys holding up traffic on 4/27/08 on the road into Bear Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Best of luck with all of your backcountry plans this week!