Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley of Colorado.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.  

Warning:  Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.  

March 18th, 2008     

After taking a week "off" of the website for assorted projects, I am back online for current updates on conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park that will continue to include current information on trail, avalanche hazard, climbing route and skiing  conditions for one of the best climbing and skiing mountain ranges in the U.S.

                The Tyndall Gorge on the morning of March 17th after another 10" of fresh snow and no wind 

The recent upslope storm which gave much of the Front Range from 3-4" of new snow also deposited a similar amount at the Bear Lake trailhead on the 16th of March and on Saint Patrick's Day we were above the clouds and baking in a strong sun which quickly transformed the cold snow into an almost-slush and the more south-facing aspects above Emerald Lake at 11,000' were shedding the top foot of new accumulation in a large and somewhat spectacular fashion by 10am on a windless day.  There were about a half-dozen sluffing avalanches of an R2, D1.5 size on these 35-45 degree slopes which were being baked in the radiation oven that had us sweating and watching the action carefully.

                      The Dragontail and Dead-Elk Couloirs (R-L) above Emerald Lake in the Tyndall Gorge

Luckily the clouds came rolling in quickly from the east (a rare event) and we were enveloped in a white-out by noon.   The snow cooled down quickly and there was no more slide activity on what had felt like a summer day for at least an hour and was starting to look like an instructional video on avalanche activity.   Likely the Squid and Jaws ice climbs suffered terribly in this heat wave and I would be avoiding the south-facing ice for some time until we endure another sustained period of cold weather. 

Roy Leggett with sluffing avalanches at his heels between the Dragontail and Dead Elk Couloirs on Flattop Mtn.  

Spring can be our other alpine ice season and like the autumn ice season, the ice is formed by snowmelt and freeze taking place on otherwise mostly dry features on the high, alpine rock walls.  Ephemeral classics such as Vanquished, Hallett and Alexander's Chimney's can come into "spring shape" with warm days and still-cold nights so we will be keeping our eyes open for the formation of ice in these more remote locales. 

             The east face of Longs Peak and the Diamond shining in the morning sun on March 11th, 2008

Spring is the prime time for couloir climbing in this couloir-laden mountain range of benign summits with slashing gashes down their steeper aspects.  Early starts and early finishes will be the ideal and clear nights a necessity to catch these avalanche prone gullys in safe-enough conditions.  New snowfalls of more than 6" or storm totals of more than a foot can be problematic as sluffing on all aspects is likely when angles exceed 40 degrees and all of the couloirs worth climbing up or skiing down easily exceed this angle.  The Y-Couloir on Mount Ypsilon looks to be filled-in and as usual, there is a sizable cornice sitting on top of this south-east facing gash.  Catching this beast on a colder day would be ideal to lessen the risk of cornice collapse and as it is a longer way into this escarpment, a super early start or bivy might be necessary to pull-off this lesser climbed classic of RMNP.

                                    The south and southeast aspects of Mt. Ypsilon on March 15th, 2008

From four to 8 inches of fresh snow fell on the afternoon and evening of March 16th and this landed on top of another 8 inch layer of mostly fist density snow that had been deposited in the preceding four days above treeline on the east side of Rocky Mountain National Park.   No significant wind throughout the weekend resulted in a rare snow covered landscape above treeline and as this was a more rare, upslope storm, the dominant winds were from the east and so the west-facing aspects were loaded the most heavily with the new snow. 

     The west face of Longs Peak blanketed with new snow on March 17th before the wind returns it to "normal"  

But with little to no wind the last 48 hrs, the lee loading was minimal until this morning when the winds quickly returned to peak at  60mph by daybreak and currently it is a white-out in many locations above treeline as the again westerly winds are scouring and transporting much of this (35cm) new snow onto the easterly aspects.  On these southeast, east, and northeast locations at and above treeline, the avalanche danger is currently at the CONSIDERABLE Danger Level, especially on slopes greater than 30 degrees and where cliffs below or cornices above reduce the supportive tension of a given slope.  Steeper surfaces might be sloughing regularly as the wind begins to load starting zones on avalanche paths such as the Dragontails and Lambslide Couloirs where lee-loading tends to be more problematic.   In all other treeline and below locations, the current avalanche danger is currently rated MODERATE.

       Low avalanche danger on Lumpy Ridge and the Sundance Buttress on 3/12/08 after some warm days  

Trails have been getting covered with new snow constantly for the last week and the wind loading today will continue this process for some time.  When the wind does stop and the many spring-breakers get out there on the snowshoes, many of the trails will be well packed and by this next weekend, there could be too-many hard-packed avenues into the high country, as many will inevitably be going the "wrong-way" or at least heading to where you might think?  Check the map if you suspect to be on a rogue trail as at least half of the beaten paths out there are not going to any particular destination- just powder pounding at it's best.

   A little bit of ice and some decent rock on "The Dangler" (M6, WI4+) which sits just right of the Hidden Falls

Avalanche danger can change quickly with new snow, wind, or temperatures above freezing, so remember to stay alert and not take anything for granted when making decisions involving travel in avalanche terrain.  Always consult the CAIC website for the latest updates on avalanche danger here in the Front Ranges and throughout the state of Colorado.

       A pair of Asolo plastic boots on their ultimate route: Hidden Falls. Time for a new pair of LaSportivas? 

The lower winds and warmer temp.'s forecast for the rest of this week should help stabilize the snowpack on sun-baked slopes where the melt-freeze metamorphism will be cementing these new snow layers.  If so, this weekend could be a prime time for those smarter winter ascents, while the weather is in a more favorable mood.  The Diamond could be prime for ascent in next week's projected mild heat wave. 

If you are interested in a training program in any or all of the climbing and skiing arts, please feel free to contact me at This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it to discuss the complete range of techniques practice and itineraries that might best meet your climbing or ski mountaineering goals. 

Best of luck with all of your backcountry plans this week!

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