Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.

              Sunrise from Longs Peak looking over the Front Range

Warning: 

Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.

June 27th Conditions Report

Yesterday was an anomaly in regard to the recent weather pattern with a thick band of clouds filling the valleys and covering the high peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park in what would be described as a "London Fog".  The light rain showers were a welcome change as we have been experiencing humidity below 20% and no rain for more than a week and the grass and flowers are already starting to dry up under these favorable climbing conditions.

The valley heat has been slowly melting out those places where we would like the snow to disappear, primarily on the Diamond and other east and north facing walls including one of my personal favorites: Hallett's North Buttress.

                                         The North Face of Longs Peak on June 30th, 2007

Only patches of snow remain on the approach hike into Hallett's as well as to Chasm Lake, Loch Vale and Glacier Gorge drainages. The approach to Notchtop has more than a mile on snow but recent conditions have been firm enough for  approach shoes (sneakers)  even in the early afternoon.  Boots will probably be necessary to get up the North Chimney on Longs (along with crampons and an ice axe) as well as for the North Face and Keyhole routes on Longs Peak.

                                Broadway and the North Chimney on the east face of Longs on June 20th, 2007

                             The Diamond Face of Longs Peak on June 20th with the "Casual Route" drawn-in.

The Keyhole route is now just 20% snow covered and the most snow covered section at the top of the Trough Couloir is best done with crampons and axe although a low 5th class detour left can avoid the snow completely.   Temperatures at  8,000' have been dipping into the 40's at night and the forecast for this week and weekend is for continued cooler weather which will bring nice freezing conditions to the places that need it most:  The Y couloir on Ypsilon, the Lambslide and Notch Couloirs on Longs and in Dreamweaver.  Looking at it this classic on Mt. Meeker on June 30th, the bottom section is melting out and the top looks continuous but thin.

               The "Homestretch" section of the Keyhole Route on Longs Peak, 14,125'- June 30th, 2007

                                          The upper Trough Couloir on June 30th, 2007

This last week was mostly rock oriented for myself as the feel of chalk dust and solid granite (or gneiss) is one of my favorite sensations and unbelievably, we encountered no other climbers at Sundance on Lumpy Ridge on Thursday and on Saturday, despite our 10am departure from the trailhead to the Skypond, we saw no other climbers in this fantastic cirque and enjoyed the Petit Grepon to ourselves under blue skies for the entire day.  I think sometimes that most climbers believe that  these places will be crowded and so no one shows up... I have been on Hallet for a couple of 4th of July's over the years and had the entire North Buttress to ourselves on these occasions as well.

                      One of the best routes on Lumpy Ridge:  Mainliner II 5.9, Sundance Buttress

                      The North Buttress of Hallet's shining in the morning sun and ready for action.

       Looking down at the east face of Spearhead and the snowy approach to the base of "Sykes Sickle".

One of the advantages of an alpine start is not just being first on the route and avoiding  being struck by lightning, but the sunrises which are always sublime if not eye shattering and this one from Longs this week was particularly fantastic.

Avalanche conditions are low in all locations above treeline in Rocky Mountain National Park at the moment and only slight sluffing will likely occur due to afternoon heat in the warmest locations.  Otherwise the ice is still solid on the north and east facing aspects, although the Vanquished buttress is completely dry now and Hallet's chimney did not form-up for ideal "ice" conditions.  This route was first done as a rock climb in the 50's so this is always an option for those who are pining to do this sometimes classic mixed route.

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