Up-to-date information by Eli Helmuth on climbing route and trail conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park and throughout the Estes Valley.  Avalanche forecasts and skiing conditions in the alpine region are also reviewed.

Sunrise from Longs Peak looking over the Front Range on July 3rd, 2007.

Warning: 

Route conditions change constantly, especially in the mountains.  Climbing is dangerous.  Be flexible in your climbing plans and always prepare for the worst.  Be experienced enough for what you are doing. Seek qualified instruction and use proper equipment.  We accept no liability for your decisions in the peaks.

July 5th Conditions Report

The current heat wave in the valleys is increasing the production of thunderhead cloud formations and the resulting lightning, hail, and afternoon showers are on the upswing in the Estes Valley and high peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park.  Early starts for the bigger mountain routes would be prudent so as to avoid electrocution or at least a potential pant-wetting episode from nearby strikes as more than a few folks have experienced near the summit of the Petit Grepon and on Longs Peak in the last week.

                                                 The North Face of Longs Peak on July 3rd, 2007

                                   A close-up of the North Face "Cables Route" of Longs Peak on July 3rd

The increased heat and warmer nights this last week have melted away much of the snowpack and routes that a week ago were in great ice and snow shape are now melted-out in spots and running with water, night and day.  The north face of Longs Peak and the Dreamweaver Couloir on the north face of Mt. Meeker are two casualties of the summertime temperatures and although there is some very firm snow left in the north facing couloirs above Skypond and nearby the Ptarmagin Glacier, many of the south, east, and west facing couloirs are gone for the season.

    The Ptarmagin Headwall, just south of the Ptarmagin Glacier on July 3rd., photo courtesy of Kenton Asche

The Diamond season is in full swing and many parties have been leaving chalk prints on the most popular routes including:  Pervertical, the Casual, D7, and Yellow Wall. The upper chimney on D1 is dripping much water as usual and the spray can blow across most of the Yellow Wall when the wind is southerly.  Otherwise the approach to the Chasm View rappels can be done without touching snow and most of the North Chimney approach is dry or at least the snow can be mostly avoided.

                   The Broadway Ledge with the top of the North Chimney in view on July 3rd, 2007

                  The North Chimney with a party ascending to gain Broadway and the Casual Route

The "Casual Route" on the Diamond was 99% dry on Frank Nederhand and my July 3rd ascent in a day, car to car.  Due to all of the snow in the North Chimney and the potential for crowds on this day before the big holiday, we elected to make the longer hike to the Chasm View rappels and to descend to Broadway via 400' of abseiling.  This proved to be a good decision as we arrived first on the route and the traverse across Broadway was casual to the base of the "D1 Pillar".  We divided the route up into 7 pitches which included the final "5.8 traverse" pitch to the Yellow Wall rappel anchors.  Luckily the afternoon thunderstorms that day stayed to the east and although we were eventually encased in the clouds and dripped-on, our storm exposure was minimal.

     Frank Nederhand hanging out on "Table Ledge" at the top of the "money pitch" on "The Casual", IV 5.10a

The Lambslide and Notch Couloirs on the east face of Longs as well as the Trough Couloir on the west face are all in prime "neve conditions" at the moment and there is still some time left before these routes melt-out and rock-fall becomes an issue.  Next week, we plan to make an ascent of the historic Stettner Ledges route (II 5.8)  which follows the large right facing dihedrals on the left side of the Lower East Slabs of Longs Peak after ascending the Lambslide for a few hundred feet.  From here we plan to finish via Kiener's direct.

                                                The Lambslide Couloir and Table Ledge on July 3rd, 2007.

    Early morning starts are the key to suriviving the lightning dangers of the alpine regions - and the payoff is golden.

Avalanche conditions are overall "LOW" in all locations in Rocky Mountain National Park this week and we have been experiencing some cooler nights which have given firm snow conditions for climbing and skiing in those still snow-covered locations.  Enjoy!

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